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Dr 8a

finger tendonitis or pulley injury?

hi dr 8a in april of 2007 i injured my right ring finger whilst bouldering.it wasnt a sudden injury but more of a gradual increase in pain over a week or so.i wasnt very clued up on finger injuries so just taped it and carried on climbing(stupid) until the stage came where it was just to painfull to climb.my finger was then swollen at the bottom making it unable to bend and touch the tip to my palm.swelling went away after a few days.went to a hand specialist who gave me a cortisone injection which really helped with the pain and said he thought it was probably a A2 pulley injury but he did no ultrasound etc and i started to climb again with tape 2 months later.it felt fine at first but after a while the pain started to come back.there is no pain when hanging open handed on hangboard but if i crimp or squeeze/grip wide objects(water bottle,grinder etc it really hurts mainly at the pip joint and then it will get very tender and pressure sensative at the proximal phalanx.i injured another finger(middle right hand,repeatedly trying the same move but didnt know finger was injured until the next morning when i woke up,was painfull to bend) (same pain etc) and took 4 months off completly from climbing and it now feels like it on the road to recovery but my older injury didnt heal in this time.its at a point where its not getting better or worse.also when i bend the finger back it makes a grinding type sound and feeling in the prox phalanx.any ideas on what the injury might be.should i go back to hand specialist and if i had to get an ultrasound scan would it definatly show if i have tendonitis or pulley injury.thanks alot.appreciate your opinions. mat
Hi Mat Yes I would strongly recommend you another visit to the hand specialist. Most likely you have overstrained the joint itself - the cartilage beeing changed in structure. In this case an injection with a combination of cortisone and Hyaleronic acid into the joint (can only be done by a dr really proficient in intrarticular injections) I would reommend that you first of all have the hand examined by a MR scan so any persistent pulley dammage can be diagnosed and attended to. Try taking NSAID (Voltaren or similar) and Glukosamine on a daily basis for a while , it might help a lot and offcourse take a step back in climbing and fopr a while do mostly easy verikal big grip climbing as rehab. Good luck Björn
I am sure I have posted this link in another Dr 8a thread but try Dave McLeod's rehab method. I have used it and my anecdotal evidence suggests it does have benefits. Good luck. http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2007/06/finger-injury-treatment-videocast.html
Yes you did Sean But if this method works ( I think it does -se my comments elswhere on this forum - but there is no scientific evidence for it!) you should only use it if you are sure the injury is in the tendon structure - it would be counterproductive if the injury is in the cartilage of the joint. so first get the right diagnosis then try the appropriate treatment Björn