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Dr 8a

Elbow Injury, Recovery Time

I have a question about my own personal rehabilitation. I took almost two months off from climbing in order to avoid causing further damage to my elbows. The pain I experienced was sudden and happened in mid-November during a day trip to my local crag. As soon as I felt the pain (which I later found out was medial epicondylitis) I stopped climbing, but the days following the incident showed me that this injury was not going to be short lived. I decided that I would stop climbing until I felt better. Within a few weeks the pain was entirely gone, but I decided not to rush back into climbing and opted instead to take another few weeks off. During those few weeks I did a regular workout program with small weights in order to rehab my elbow (supinators, reverse wrist curls, push ups, theraband exercises, and various stretches to promote blood flow). I have finally returned to climbing but have severely cut back on the intensity and frequency of my climbing sessions. So far, I have not experienced any pain whatsoever. My question is this: When do you think I can safely return to climbing at the same level of difficulty I was before my injury? Or, how do I best gauge my recovery? I don't want to make the mistake of rushing back to challenging climbs simply because my elbows feel good again. I want to make a smart, informed decision. Thank you for you help!
Hi Medial epicondylitis occurs due to the poor circulation in the origin tendons of the hand flexor (grip) muscles, The way yoy did your rehab is schoolbook except that you also have to do a lot of streching for the medial as well as the lateral (extorsors- grip stabilizing) muscles. At least 4 times per day and allways before and after climbing stretch your flexors by placing your palms, fingers pointing away, on a table in front of you and then lean forward, keep the stretch for 15 seconds. Increase your forarm cirkulation by frekvently usin a foam ball to squeeze - even better if it like the Metolius handmaster have rubber bands installed thart also allows you to work your extensors. Use Volatren gel on your forarm training days. Get bacck to climbing successively starting with big grip easy climbing and over asuccession of weeks build up to full power. Best of luck Björn