I'm a 29-year-old climber (mostly sport
climbing and bouldering) who's been battling on-again-off-again
posterior shoulder pain since about 2005 (I started climbing in 2000). The
pain is an aching, hard-to-pinpoint pain all around the left scapula
and posterior shoulder that builds gradually during a climbing session
and is most noticeable (at first) during rests between climbs/problems.
The pain seems to be more correlated with volume and frequency of
climbing than intensity of movement: it doesn't happen every time I
climb but is much more likely if I'm climbing regularly than if I'm
taking 2-3 days off between days of climbing. The pain typically
subsides after an hour or two of rest but can remain noticeable as a
low-level soreness for days. On light-pain days, it tends to respond
relatively well to ibuprofen. I've seen several PTs and
orthopedic specialists over the years and have tried a host of
shoulder-stabilizing exercises and stretches. The ortho I saw several
times last year suspected a torn labrum, but my MRI showed no evidence
of a torn labrum, just an area of persistent inflammation in the area of
the supraspinatus. A steroid shot, followed by a period of rest,
physical therapy, and more shoulder stabilization exercises, seemed to
keep the pain at bay for several months. Once I started increasing the
frequency of my climbing/bouldering sessions to more than once every
three days, however, the pain returned. For bouldering season
(winter here in North Carolina), I was able to minimize the frequency of
painful sessions by always taking two days off between sessions. Now,
however, even that strategy seems to be failing despite continued
attention to shoulder stabilization exercises and stretches. Although
climbing infrequently is better than not climbing at all, not being
able to climb more than once every three days makes it virtually
impossible to take a weekend roadtrip. Any ideas?
Iยดve been with a shoulder pain last few mounths but at the end Iยดve realized itยดs due how I ussually sleep, Iยดm sure is not really your problem but this advice maybe help you... put a slim pillow under your arm (just a little) when you are sleeping and try not to turn to the side of the injured shoulder...the pillow have two goals: 1- keep the arm more stable and avoid contact between the bone and tendon when the muscle get relaxed. 2- and avoid you to turn to the injured side when you are asleep. good luck dude!!!
Hi I would have to agree that this most likely is a labrum injury - maybee a second opinion with a shoulder specialist versed in atroscopic examination would do the trick. Labrum injuries are infamed for being persistent and hard to heal. A physician with a handball or baseball team experience would have the nessecary qualifications Bjรถrn
Thanks Dr 8a, for replying to all these various injury threads. I find your comments to be the most useful of any of the 8a posts. I'd much rather see your constructive advice re: injuries, therapy, preventative exercises, and training tips than another debate of ratings etc. Thanks for all the good advice!
Dear Edwin, I faced the same problem. I started climbing in 2010 and by the end of 2011 I started feeling pain in my left shoulder. After injections and PT it started to get better when it started in my right shoulder in late 2012. I spoke to a friend who had to stop climbing for half a year due to chronic elbow pain and he adviced me to train the antagonists. For me that basically meant doing push ups (in 5-8 different variations) every evening. Since I have started doing these Push Ups I feel way better and don't experience pain anymore. I only have to be consequent and do the exercises every day and I will be fine. This procedure worked for me better than any PTs or injections and maybe it helps you as well. krStefan
Chronic shoulder pain