Almost 1 year ago I injured the middle knuckle in my middle finger from repetitively dead- pointing to a mono and then rotating the finger 90 degrees as I worked my feet up for the next move. This happened over several days and after the injury I took 1 months rest. My finger got better, but 6 months ago during a bouldering session indoors I was campusing on 2 fingers and trying a strenuous problem soley using 2 finger pockets. The next day my finger was so sore I could not even make a fist. I have been to see a hand specialist and was told I have injured the collateral ligaments and/or joint capsule. I have also had an X-Ray which showed there was no skeletal damage. I took 2 months off and then started climbing again slowly. I am back to climbing at about 80%, am taping my finger when I climb, and am avoiding fingery or big lateral movements. However, I am still getting a dull ache after climbing and there is still some swelling around the knuckles in either my middle and also ring finger. My knukles are still a little tender and I get minor pain when hyperflexing. Do you have any advice about rehab for the seemingly chronic injury and tips on what I can do so speed up the headling process?
Hi
Try reaading some on the genral healing tips in the initial part of this forum.
That is: what you are doing now is correct , you should also use an antinflammatory drug ( lokal applied Voltaren cream twice daily) , add Glucoseamine ( 1 tabl of 595 mg/day preferably together with an Omega3 fatacid supplement) and take up the habit of foamball squezing ( see www.dozac.com)
Best of luck
Björn
Chronic Collateral Ligament Injury In Finger