Hi,
I've been suffering from a really annoying finger injury now for about
3.5 months. The injury has been diagnosed by a NHS physio as a strained
collateral ligament at the PIP joint of my left hand middle finger. The
diagnosis was made on the basis of a physical exam and I have had no
x-rays or scans. The treatment suggested was 6 weeks off climbing (not
including the 2 weeks rest I'd given it prior to my physio appointment)
and mild stretching.
On the advice of the physio, I returned to climbing 2 weeks ago on the
basis of sub-maximal climbs only. I am mainly into bouldering and my
approach to this has been to only climb problems that I can on-site (V5
maximum), completely avoid tweaky holds on the left hand and use a very
thorough warm up/ down.
I've had 5 sessions since returning to climbing and my finger is
feeling as bad or worse than it was at the time of diagnosis. The pain
I'm experiencing feels almost 'skeletal' as if it's the bones at the
PIP joint themselves that are damaged. Also, when I move the finger
laterally, I can feel (and almost hear!!) a sort of 'crunching' within
the joint..!!
Basically, I'm totally freaking out about the finger. The kind of
freaking out where you're worried that you might have to give up
altogether..!! I was wondering if anyone knows of/ can recommend a
sports injury specialist with specialist experience of rock climbing
injuries. Ideally, I want to see someone that has seen this kind of
injury before and can tell me exactly what I can and can't do to ensure
my finger recovers and I can climb for many more years and achieve my
goals (I'm only 27 FFS!!). Does anyone have any first hand experience
of 'The Clinic' in Sheffield, UK see - http://919clinic.co.uk/home.aspx ? Any advice would be most appreciated - I live in Glasgow but am willing to travel more or less anywhere in the UK.
Also, anyone got any similar injury experiences and/ or tips for dealing with these kind of injuries..?
Many thanks in advance and Happy Christmas
peterp P.S. I've been climbing on and off for about 5 years and doing more serious training for climbing for the last 2 years.
Hi Peter
The pain and feeling of grinding in the joint might still be "only a colateral ligament injury. I would suggest you continue climbing"easy" while twin taping the injured finger to the adjecent one. Find a competent surgeon specializes in hand injuries to get a qualified diagnois and treatment. In case of a total rupture of the ligament sugery might be nessecary.
Good luck
Björn
Another(!) finger problem