Hi Doctor, I was climbing a route with the crux coming at a mono pocket. I had tried this route many times and was quite fatigued coming in to it. I felt an immediate twinge in my middle finger. I stopped climbing and went home very depressed to have another A2 pulley incident. I can evoke a pain response with a open handed grip with the effected finger. The pain is far less if other fingers are added to the stimulis. Full crimping actually feels ok. I have never suffered a finger injury using an open grip, so I am not familiar with this. Is it possible this could be a A1 pulley? If so is rehab going to be any different than a2? Thanks, Luke edit: no swelling or bruising, full range of motion with mild pain. severe pain and weakness when finger is used alone in an open grip.
HiYes it could be a AI pulley but also an injury to the crutiate ligament between the pulleys which might account for the ability to fullcrimp - anyway its not any harder to recover from- Cut back a little on hard climbing-try to find the tender spot in the finger and when climbing support atpe that and also twin tape the finger to the stronger adjecent finger for a while, keep cirkulation witk foam ball squeezing - slowely start cranking it upp again after 3-4 weeks best of luck Bjรถrn
A1 or A2? please help!