Mammut Bus
Vertical-Life
Climb to Paris
POWERED BY Mammut Logo
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
meters to Paris
VERTICAL-LIFE STATS
0
Members
0
Total ascents
0
Ascents last 30 Days
0
Ascents last 24 hours
United States

YDS vs. Hueco conversion on 8a.nu

Any thoughts on whether the chart on here for converting ratings is accurate? I was always told (and lots of books say this too) that a 5.12a was about equivalent to a V4 and a 5.13a was about equivalent to a V7. Seems like the conversion on here is devaluing problems rated on the Hueco system? What does everyone think?
there is no 'accurate' conversion - only consensus.  there are no 'accurate' grades - only consensus. to call the vermin scale a 'system' is laughable at best. conversion between routes and boulders is useful why? go to the forums and read the mounds of arguments re: grading. 
Consensus creates accurate conversions; Consensus creates accurate grades; Anything used to consistently analogize or draw a common parallel between two or more similar or related topics, items or experiences can be called a system (ie Yosemite Decimal System ), whether you use the word "scale" or "system" is purely semantics; Unless you climb exclusively in Europe on routes/problems graded on the French system, you are always converting something to post on here. Funny that the crux (the move(s) that define(s) the consensus difficulty rating of a route/problem) of a V6 or V7 feels about the same as a 12d or 13a crux, but one is converted here to 7a and the other 7c. Also, as with the conversion here, there is no way that a 10a crux is the same as a V3 crux; and, No issues with grading, as you pointed out, grades are based on consensus. Consistency in conversions is the issue. Go look at Freedom of the Hills or all of the Supertopo guides for their conversions, much different than 8a.nu.
consensus creates the 'effect' of accuracy.  there are no 'real' grades or conversions. i guess.  system seems to imply regularized complex functions between parts.  scale simply marks out a linear progression from big to small.  purely semantics?  if you throw out the meaning of the two terms i might be compelled to agree. lol.  why would anyone spend time coverting grades between two imaginary grading 'systems'?  just pick one imaginary grading system and go with it.  i don't convert anything - i just choose the 'effect' 8a offers.  the distribution seems as 'accurate' as any other distribution.  in terms of their sport/boulder comparison, i don't think they are meant to be equivalent in any meaningful way.  in other words, they are seperate scales meant to compare within type rather than between .  again, not sure why you would want to compare routes and boulders anyhow. huh.  semantics indeed.