Detta inlรคgg รคr skrivet av Johan Holmgren leg. lรคk. Specialist allmรคnmedicin, ordfรถrande SKF:s medicinska kommittรฉ samt representant i UIAA MedCom. Obs!! Unga klรคttrare mรฅste i jรคmfรถrelse med vuxna anpassa sin trรคning med tanke pรฅ att deras fingrar รคr kรคnsligare fรถr hรฅrd belastning. Bifogar lรคnk till artikeln skriven Audrey Morrison och som finns pรฅ UIAA:s hemsida. Punkt 3 och 9 har kopierats ur artikeln. Lรคs nedan:
http://www.theuiaa.org/medical_advice_sport_climbing.html
" 3. Are the fingers of young climbers different to those of competitive adult climbers? Yes. Fingers stop growing around age 16 to 17 years, and so training should respect the fact that fingers are still growing. There are no international bouldering competitions for under 16s. The limited amount of studies on the fingers of dedicated young climbers suggest training intensity should be reduced during the adolescent growth spurt to reduce the risk of fractures to the growth plates in the fingers, and other possible finger/s damage. The final growth spurt is around age 13 to 15. This growth period is very obvious if height and weight are regularly plotted on growth charts, or when clothes/shoes are outgrown."
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" 9. Is there anything that should be different in the way a dedicated young climber trains compared to an adult? Just because some elite young climbers climb similar grades to elite adults does not mean they should train in a similar fashion as they are still growing! Full adult maturation of bones, tissues and organs is not complete until approximately age 19-20 years in females, and age 22-23 in males. Intensive/inappropriate training and/or trying to keep excessively lean can result in full adult developmental growth being delayed, reduced, or in extreme cases never achieved. The adolescent growth spurt will increase muscle mass (especially in males), and increase the hormone levels needed for putting on muscle and anaerobic training. Bones will widen and lengthen significantly. These combined increases in muscle and bone size will increase total body weight. But remember in order for such growth to happen, connective structures like ligaments and tendons must be weak. These connective structures are two to fives times weaker than that of an adult. So a similar force that results in a sprain in an adult will do more damage to an adolescent during this time. Do not increase finger strengthening exercises or train excessively on routes that place strain on the weaker connective tissues in fingers/upper limbs during this growth spurt. Remember your finger bones are still growing, and the finger tendons need time to strengthen and adapt to this growth spurt. Remember, climbing should be enjoyed over a lifetime, so train correctly to ensure this is possible."
Tack Johan och jag hoppas att du kan svara pรฅ nรฅgra frรฅgor. Fingrar slutar alltsรฅ vรคxa nรคr man รคr 16 - 17 vilket vรคl dรฅ mรฅste vara tidigare รคn fรถr armar och ben som vรคl ocksรฅ har tillvรคxtplattor. Varfรถr รคr expertis inte lika negativa till hรฅrd trรคning fรถr ben vid tex Vollyboll, Fotboll, Tresteg, Badminton osv som ju nรคr barnen trรคnar 20 ocksรฅ borde vara farligt? Ingenstans stรฅr det att crimp greppet รคr farligt bara att man ska tรคnka pรฅ att inte trรคna hรฅrt. Crimpgreppet anses vara farligast, stรคmmer det? Det stรฅr vidare i artikeln att internationella bouldertรคvlingar fรถr under 16 รฅr inte finns men det รคr ju direkt felaktigt. Det arrangeras IFSC tรคvlingar fรถr barn och bland annat sรฅ skickar Sverige en stor trupp. I Sverige och Norden tรคvlar barn i bouldering from att de รคr 10 รฅr. Borde man fรถrbjuda detta?
Ok, bra frรฅgor, hรคr kommer svaren. I en situation dรคr man lรคgger pรฅ hela kroppstyngden รคr det rent teoretiskt sรฅ att trycket per ytenhet blir hรถgre i ett finger jรคmfรถrt med belastning av en av de stรถrre lederna (i t.ex. armar och ben) pรฅ samma sรคtt. Fingrarna och dess leder รคr sรฅledes mer utsatta. I den tidigare nรคmnda artikeln under punkt 4 stรฅr fรถljande om crimpgrepp som anses farligast, jag har rรถdmarkerat det viktigaste:
4. What should I do to help relieve joint pain in fingers after climbing? As with any sporting participation, a proper warm up at the beginning of the session and warm down with stretching at end of climb session - including the forearms and fingers - will aid recovery, maintain proper limb functioning, and help prevent injury. Many veteran climbers have fingers that are slightly bent, so they cannot place their hands palm-side down completely flat on a smooth surface ย so stretch your fingers out after climbing. The whole musculo-tendinous unit from elbow to finger tip needs to be stretched not just the fingers. Over stretching of individual joints of the fingers is discouraged as this affects the joint capsule and may (no evidence) encourage less stability under stress. Crimping holds create the most potential for injury. So if you are training on crimpy routes, or simply training intensively (ie more overhangs), your finger pain may be the result of this, so reduce the training load. The following recovery methods have been used by different countries for the hands specifically, especially after an intensive climbing workout ย soak hands in ice water or apply cold packs to them (even holding a cold drink can), soak in sulphur bath, move fingers or fan them as if playing on a piano, rotate Chinese exercise balls in palm of hand. Painkillers/anti-inflammatory medications are useful as well, but donยt make a habit of using them regularly because chronic use of them can lead to other health problems. Be wary of anti inflammatory medication used in this way ย not only because it can mask an overload situation but you also the risk gastro-intestinal problems, namely gastrointestinal bleeding. Sรฅ till sist angรฅende internationella bouldertรคvlingar fรถr de under 16รฅr och att barn tรคvlar i detta frรฅn 10 รฅrs รฅlder i Sverige och Norden; stรถrsta risken รคr i รฅldern 13-15 รฅr, den/de som arrangerar dessa tรคvlingar bรถr beakta bรฅde medicinska (och eventuella juridiska) aspekter pรฅ det hela, det lรฅter inte riktigt bra. Fรถr att minimera riskerna bรถr greppen vara riktigt "snรคlla" fรถr fingrarna om man รถverhuvudtaget ska arrangera tรคvlingar i den hรคr รฅldersgruppen <16 รฅr. /Johan Holmgren
Tack fรถr bra svar. Om jag fรถrstรฅr dig rรคtt sรฅ tycker du alltsรฅ att fรถrbundet borde gรฅ ut med riktlinjer fรถr den bouldertรคvling med rekorddeltagande mellan 10 - 16 รฅr nu i helgen, om nu SKF รถverhuvudtaget ska arrangera tรคvlingar fรถr de under 16 รฅr.
Det fรถrvรฅnar, en novis som mig, att sรฅ mรฅnga fรถrbundsrepresentanter vรคljer att kommunicera via 8a - รคven med varandra... Jag menar - det finns ju absoluuut ingen risk att det leder till missfรถrstรฅnd och konflikter. Speciellt inte som herr redaktรถrn verkar leva bรฅde fรถr och av att skapa sรฅdana konflikter.
Tror inte det finns en enda frรฅn fรถrbundet kvar pรฅ 8a, om jag skall vara รคrlig. Den sista som lรคmnade var vรคl Mats. Att sen Johan hรคr ovan informerar pรฅ den stรถrsta Svenska klรคttersiten รคr vรคl bara ett sunt steg att sรคkra att sรฅ mรฅnga som mรถjligt har tillgรฅng till denna viktiga framtidsfrรฅga.
Arrangรถren borde avstรฅ frรฅn crimpgrepp under tรคvlingen alternativt om detta inte hinner genomfรถras , informera om riskerna med klรคttringen samt รคven se till att man fรฅr skriftligt pรฅ att klรคttraren deltar pรฅ egen risk. /Johan Holmgren
Fingrar lรถper รถkad risk skadas hos unga klรคttrare