Fingrar löper ökad risk skadas hos unga klättrare

Detta inlägg är skrivet av Johan Holmgren leg. läk. Specialist allmänmedicin, ordförande SKF:s medicinska kommitté samt representant i UIAA MedCom. Obs!! Unga klättrare måste i jämförelse med vuxna anpassa sin träning med tanke på att deras fingrar är känsligare för hård belastning. Bifogar länk till artikeln skriven Audrey Morrison och som finns på UIAA:s hemsida. Punkt 3 och 9 har kopierats ur artikeln. Läs nedan: http://www.theuiaa.org/medical_advice_sport_climbing.html   " 3. Are the fingers of young climbers different to those of competitive adult climbers?  Yes. Fingers stop growing around age 16 to 17 years, and so training should respect the fact that fingers are still growing. There are no international bouldering competitions for under 16s. The limited amount of studies on the fingers of dedicated young climbers suggest training intensity should be reduced during the adolescent growth spurt to reduce the risk of fractures to the growth plates in the fingers, and other possible finger/s damage. The final growth spurt is around age 13 to 15. This growth period is very obvious if height and weight are regularly plotted on growth charts, or when clothes/shoes are outgrown."   och   " 9. Is there anything that should be different in the way a dedicated young climber trains compared to an adult? Just because some elite young climbers climb similar grades to elite adults does not mean they should train in a similar fashion as they are still growing! Full adult maturation of bones, tissues and organs is not complete until approximately age 19-20 years in females, and age 22-23 in males. Intensive/inappropriate training and/or trying to keep excessively lean can result in full adult developmental growth being delayed, reduced, or in extreme cases never achieved. The adolescent growth spurt will increase muscle mass (especially in males), and increase the hormone levels needed for putting on muscle and anaerobic training. Bones will widen and lengthen significantly. These combined increases in muscle and bone size will increase total body weight. But remember in order for such growth to happen, connective structures like ligaments and tendons must be weak. These connective structures are two to fives times weaker than that of an adult. So a similar force that results in a sprain in an adult will do more damage to an adolescent during this time. Do not increase finger strengthening exercises or train excessively on routes that place strain on the weaker connective tissues in fingers/upper limbs during this growth spurt. Remember your finger bones are still growing, and the finger tendons need time to strengthen and adapt to this growth spurt. Remember, climbing should be enjoyed over a lifetime, so train correctly to ensure this is possible."