Saturday, 26 September
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What is your favourite climb?
What is your favourite climb?
You know, we dont have a lot of forum stuff going on. Probally because we're all out climbing. Well I just got home and Im recovering a bit from an awesome day of climbing, and I figured we need some new stuff on this forum, so I want to know what climbers out there have for favourite climbing routes, boulder problems, or even a crag. So give it to us, what's the most liked problem you've done? Give us some details of what it was, share the excitement. If your fave changes, so what, give us the new scoop! Just to start, I'll tell you mine. It wasnt the hardest route I ever done, it wasnt the most technical, but it was memorable, it was on toprope!. It was my first time outside climbing, it had been two months since I started climbing (in the gym), it was in a place called Flat Rock, Newfoundland. The route was Yellow Fever, a 5.9 by North American standards. The location was gorgeous, right on the Atlantic Ocean, conglomerated ocean sandstone rising right out of the water, with a shelf dropping deep to the ocean floor twenty feet away. I was climbing my first outside climb, and I was intimidated. Half way up the climb, about forty feet in the air maybe, I hear this incredible whooshing noise rising from the ocean behind me! I looked just in time to see my first ever humpback whale, full breaching out of the ocean! All that was left in the water was his tail. The approximately 200 tonne mammal came crashing down onto his back, returning to the ocean, sending vibrations into the rock above. There is a lot of other really small whales bobbing up and down through the same stretch of water, but this was something. If you believe in omens, I think this was a good one. It might have been my first climb, but it is remembered as one of the best ones in my life. There are and will be others, but for now this one stands out quite well. Well, I broke the ice. Got some time, have to lay off a bit? WHAT is your FAVOURITE?
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well, crack addict - the ice seemed to have frozen pretty quickly again... about that favorite climb of yours: it sounds like some fantastic experience, it sounds really crazy, but what a start for your climbing career! i surely wouldn't ever forget such a moment. so, about my favorite climb: in this case it was the hardest i have ever climed. the route (between) is found at an unknown crag in switzerland. i went there in order to climb some projects i had been looking at for a long time, but had never felt strong enough... anyway, that day i got there in october, two friends of mine had just bolted this new route and had already sent it as well. they told me to try it, but it was a 7b+. i had never evenattemted to climb at that grade, but i thought 'why not?'. the route is about 15 meters high, two meters overhanging and the line is completly straight up. the first three meters are relatively easy, then you get to this big horizontal crack, you clip and then you have to dyno to a big jug. it's not far, just out of static reach afterwards you clip and you have to do a two-handed dyno to this real sharp ledge - you better stick to it good otherwise it's a mess... after these two dynos you have to do this crazy move where you place your right foot right next to your hip, put most of your weight on it and pull the rest up with two slopey fingerholes... of course it took a few tries to get those moves right, but it was simply so much fun! i came back to that route two days later and sent it in the first try that day. but i didn't care wether i redpointed it or not. i just had so much fun! the moves wer great, all of them! and i climed it often on that trip, wheter redpoint or with rests - it was simply such great fun to climb that route... this was, still is, my favorite route! i get such an exhilirating kick out of it! it's the greatest!! Schlangenfelsen rules!!! now coomon people, let's get some action into this forum! so that on rainy days we can come here and sooth eachothers rocksickness! ;-)
everyclimb is still better than your best day at work.
one of my favorite climbs is one i just onsighted in my hometown crag (main face, flaterock nfld canada) called yellowfever. its an awesome route, its only easy...(5.9+ in newfoundland grades which are usually wrong...for the better) its an awesome easy route, were you start on the flat lying jugish hold moving into an undercling...then you preceed up a lay back section for about 10 - 17 feet give or take, youthen fire the first crux, a slightly larger move for those under 5'8", thyen on to another layback and a another cruxy seqounce, then your lookin at 15 feet of moderate hold till top out, the route features two aweosmeno hands rests, and is about 50- 60 feet of pebbly sandstone (dont worry abou tthe pebbles this is a high traffic route and seems to be very clean if you come to nfld WHICH YOU SHOULD you will defienlty be chcking yellow fever out