Vertical-Life
Long Dong
278
ASCENTS
37 %
OS RATE
155
ROUTES IN DB
278
ASCENTS
37 %
OS RATE
155
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Golden Shower (6a) |
20 Feb 2024
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| New Ferrari (6c+) |
17 Feb 2024
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| Coach Demonstrates (7b) |
17 Feb 2024
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| Valentine's Gift (7a+) |
15 Feb 2024
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| Bin Lang Road (7b) |
15 Feb 2024
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| Fucking Fall (6c) |
13 Feb 2024
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| Republic of China (7b+) |
12 Feb 2024
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| Bin Lang Road (7b) | 5.10 intro on slopers and jugs into a beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging face/arete tech finish. Long and airy. Almost no loose rock these days. Damp in the late afternoon. Falling at the sketchily bolted jug roof would be a bad idea. |
5 Jan 2024
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| 5.10 intro on slopers and jugs into a beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging face/arete tech finish. Long and airy. Almost no loose rock these days. Damp in the late afternoon. Falling at the sketchily bolted jug roof would be a bad idea. | ||||||
| Hug the Tree 抱樹幹 (7b+) | Nice little dyno start into classic fridge-hugging compression moves on slopers and crimps to turn a mini roof. Short and sweet. Damp in late afternoon. |
5 Jan 2024
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| Nice little dyno start into classic fridge-hugging compression moves on slopers and crimps to turn a mini roof. Short and sweet. Damp in late afternoon. | ||||||
| October Ten (7c) | Jug haul to a tricky tight corner crux and an exit on pumpy slopers. Nominally 13b, felt much easier on send go. Dropped a couple of rocks on Kala. |
31 Dec 2023
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| Jug haul to a tricky tight corner crux and an exit on pumpy slopers. Nominally 13b, felt much easier on send go. Dropped a couple of rocks on Kala. | ||||||
| 誰與爭鋒 Incomparable (7c+) | Thoughtful climbing on widely varied cruxes with mega rests in between. (1) Techy heel hook to oppose a terrible crimp rail, followed by a few hard face moves. (2) Slab rockover. (3) Jugs in a mini roof. (4) Another mini roof, big span to an inverted layback to a pivot dyno. (4) was the hardest crux. Felt like I executed almost perfectly on the send despite relatively few working goes, which is great progress. |
30 Jan 2023
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| Thoughtful climbing on widely varied cruxes with mega rests in between. (1) Techy heel hook to oppose a terrible crimp rail, followed by a few hard face moves. (2) Slab rockover. (3) Jugs in a mini roof. (4) Another mini roof, big span to an inverted layback to a pivot dyno. (4) was the hardest crux. Felt like I executed almost perfectly on the send despite relatively few working goes, which is great progress. | ||||||
| Fear Only Fear Itself (6c+) | Originally graded as 6b+ but most people find it require 7a+ climber's strength or technique. There's 1 crux, and there are at least 4 ways to do it, but either way you got to be quite strong or you can do it technically with subtle body tension control and hand holding adjustment (I'm 5'4" that's what worked for me). The crux is well bolted, while the rest is like its name, so for anyone who can pass the crux definitely won't fall later, so don't need to worry! It's a good climb just sandbagged |
21 Aug 2020
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| Originally graded as 6b+ but most people find it require 7a+ climber's strength or technique. There's 1 crux, and there are at least 4 ways to do it, but either way you got to be quite strong or you can do it technically with subtle body tension control and hand holding adjustment (I'm 5'4" that's what worked for me). The crux is well bolted, while the rest is like its name, so for anyone who can pass the crux definitely won't fall later, so don't need to worry! It's a good climb just sandbagged | ||||||
| Fucking Fall (1989 決賽） (6c) | I asked all the beta the first time I climbed it and it went smoothly. Months later I did it for warm up because I just woke up at the crag and was too lazy to move, bad idea. With the two extreme cases I need to climb it again to say how the climb actually is. |
15 Mar 2020
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| I asked all the beta the first time I climbed it and it went smoothly. Months later I did it for warm up because I just woke up at the crag and was too lazy to move, bad idea. With the two extreme cases I need to climb it again to say how the climb actually is. | ||||||
| Have a Leg (7b+) | This thing is nearly impossible in wet conditions. Be careful cleaning it. It may be easier to second it if you want to clean all your gear from it. |
31 Jan 2020
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| This thing is nearly impossible in wet conditions. Be careful cleaning it. It may be easier to second it if you want to clean all your gear from it. | ||||||
| the real legend (7c+) |
22 Dec 2019
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| White Face Man (6c) |
28 Jul 2019
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| N.N. (6a+) |
22 Jul 2019
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| N.N. (6b) |
22 Jul 2019
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| Drum Roll (6c+) |
20 Jul 2019
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| Fucking Fall (6c) |
20 Jul 2019
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