Vertical-Life
Blåmann
18
ASCENTS
28 %
OS RATE
15
ROUTES IN DB
18
ASCENTS
28 %
OS RATE
15
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Atlantis (7b) | Veldig gøy rute i kule omgivelsa! Leda taul. 1-4 og siste. Alt på blikk eller andre forsøk, stor cred til skuta og Knutcher for børsting og hagearbeid av 7eren i toppen! Sporty feel på cruxet, alt anna va tungt.... |
7 Aug 2023
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| Veldig gøy rute i kule omgivelsa! Leda taul. 1-4 og siste. Alt på blikk eller andre forsøk, stor cred til skuta og Knutcher for børsting og hagearbeid av 7eren i toppen! Sporty feel på cruxet, alt anna va tungt....
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| Atlantis (7b+) | Med Øystein, 15 magiske timer i midnattssol. Fet, vedvarende og voksen klatring i voksen vegg. 2nd go på 3. taulengde (8/7b+), fulgte 2. (7/7+/6c+), 5. (6+/6b), 7. (6+/6b) og 9. (6+/6b) taulengde i fri, aidet 5 meter av våt 7-/6b+ i toppen (taulengde 8). Onsightet alt annet inkludert taulengde 6 (8-/7b). Vi delte taulengde 4 i to pga god hylle halveis. Grader og taulengdenummer ref til Kvaløya Selected Climbs, Kvaløya Archives 2007. |
19 Jul 2019
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| Med Øystein, 15 magiske timer i midnattssol. Fet, vedvarende og voksen klatring i voksen vegg. 2nd go på 3. taulengde (8/7b+), fulgte 2. (7/7+/6c+), 5. (6+/6b), 7. (6+/6b) og 9. (6+/6b) taulengde i fri, aidet 5 meter av våt 7-/6b+ i toppen (taulengde 8). Onsightet alt annet inkludert taulengde 6 (8-/7b). Vi delte taulengde 4 i to pga god hylle halveis. Grader og taulengdenummer ref til Kvaløya Selected Climbs, Kvaløya Archives 2007. | ||||||
| Ultima Thule (7b+) | Epic to the max... It's june 7th when I get a message from Aniek: 'Do you want to climb at the beginning of July in the Dolomites? - smilley sign'. I want to, but time is an issue. 'Could it be the second half of July?', I respond. Luckily Aniek is flexible. After working for three months as a cook in the Lyngen Alps, she has now all the time of the world until her master starts in September. 'But instead of going to Italy we could climb Store Blåmann,' she writes. I grab my Ipad and Google the unfamiliar name. The second hit gives the describtion: 'The Little Bigwall of the North'. A bit intimidated I write: 'Sounds interesting'. Fast forward, it's tuesdag 24 July, around 08.00 o'clock. With every step on the mossy path I'm coming closer to the base of the impressive 'blue man'. And with every step the intimidation grows: 'what a beast,' I think silently. But despite the magnitude of the North face and a bit of knot in my stomach, I'm also looking forward for this adventure. The previous week Aniek was the perfect guide, showing me the Kvaløya-highlights like Gullknausen, Ersfjorden and Baugen. Especially Baugen makes a huge impression on me, it could even be the most beautiful climbing place I've been; the cutest hut, amazing walls and utter serenity... It's truly a magical place. At the same time though, I'm way out of my comfortzone. I only climbed trad once on a easy route in Pale di San Lucano in the Dolomites, but luckily the routes in Baugen like Varrussen, Stjernedans, Baugsprydet and Thanatos are learning me a lot and I notice the progress. And being around with someone like Aniek, someone who is in total control, gives me a lot of confidence. And so we start walking this particular tuesday morning towards Blåmann. When we reach the base there is good and bad news. The good thing is that because of all the rain in the previous days, there's not much snow left and thus no need for ice axes. But the bad part is that our intented route Pistachio is wet. We decide to go for plan B: Ultima Thule. Being under the giant North face the sun has long dissapeared and while I'm putting on every layer that I brought, Aniek says: 'I'm stoked to do this'. We eat a bit of a giant home made sandwhich, drink some hot water and then it's off to a 15 hour intense journey through one the most impressive granite walls that Europe has to offer. In the end we manage to team climb all the 10 pitches except one, mainly because of a wet and slimey crack. But overall it was an amazing experience; overcoming fear, pushing the limits in every single pitch, fighting the fatigue, keeping it together in sketchy passages, enjoying the views (and the second half of the sandwhich), praying that it doesn't start raining harder and - ultimately - being high on the summit together with the midnight sun while dancing on music from Paul Kalkbrenner. I'm glad we didn't go the Dolomites |
25 Jul 2018
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| Epic to the max...
It's june 7th when I get a message from Aniek: 'Do you want to climb at the beginning of July in the Dolomites? - smilley sign'.
I want to, but time is an issue. 'Could it be the second half of July?', I respond. Luckily Aniek is flexible. After working for three months as a cook in the Lyngen Alps, she has now all the time of the world until her master starts in September.
'But instead of going to Italy we could climb Store Blåmann,' she writes. I grab my Ipad and Google the unfamiliar name. The second hit gives the describtion: 'The Little Bigwall of the North'. A bit intimidated I write: 'Sounds interesting'.
Fast forward, it's tuesdag 24 July, around 08.00 o'clock. With every step on the mossy path I'm coming closer to the base of the impressive 'blue man'. And with every step the intimidation grows: 'what a beast,' I think silently. But despite the magnitude of the North face and a bit of knot in my stomach, I'm also looking forward for this adventure.
The previous week Aniek was the perfect guide, showing me the Kvaløya-highlights like Gullknausen, Ersfjorden and Baugen. Especially Baugen makes a huge impression on me, it could even be the most beautiful climbing place I've been; the cutest hut, amazing walls and utter serenity... It's truly a magical place.
At the same time though, I'm way out of my comfortzone. I only climbed trad once on a easy route in Pale di San Lucano in the Dolomites, but luckily the routes in Baugen like Varrussen, Stjernedans, Baugsprydet and Thanatos are learning me a lot and I notice the progress. And being around with someone like Aniek, someone who is in total control, gives me a lot of confidence.
And so we start walking this particular tuesday morning towards Blåmann. When we reach the base there is good and bad news. The good thing is that because of all the rain in the previous days, there's not much snow left and thus no need for ice axes. But the bad part is that our intented route Pistachio is wet. We decide to go for plan B: Ultima Thule.
Being under the giant North face the sun has long dissapeared and while I'm putting on every layer that I brought, Aniek says: 'I'm stoked to do this'. We eat a bit of a giant home made sandwhich, drink some hot water and then it's off to a 15 hour intense journey through one the most impressive granite walls that Europe has to offer.
In the end we manage to team climb all the 10 pitches except one, mainly because of a wet and slimey crack. But overall it was an amazing experience; overcoming fear, pushing the limits in every single pitch, fighting the fatigue, keeping it together in sketchy passages, enjoying the views (and the second half of the sandwhich), praying that it doesn't start raining harder and - ultimately - being high on the summit together with the midnight sun while dancing on music from Paul Kalkbrenner.
I'm glad we didn't go the Dolomites | ||||||
| Arctandria (8a) | Ledet alle taulengdene. Per Hararald Barkost fulgte. Verdens beste rute? |
4 Jul 2016
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| Ledet alle taulengdene. Per Hararald Barkost fulgte. Verdens beste rute? | ||||||
| Disco 2000 p2 (8a+) | Also p2 of Arctandia, epic corner pitch. I was pretty scared to test our preplaced beaks, so didn't, then Callum took a massive whinger onto them! |
10 Aug 2015
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| Also p2 of Arctandia, epic corner pitch. I was pretty scared to test our preplaced beaks, so didn't, then Callum took a massive whinger onto them! | ||||||
| Ultima Thule (6c) | Gikk det på 7 og under i fri. resten ble det dratt i litt sikringer her og var, første lengden 100 % aid. |
13 Jul 2014
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| Gikk det på 7 og under i fri. resten ble det dratt i litt sikringer her og var, første lengden 100 % aid. | ||||||
| Pishtaco (7b) | med Jonas Jakobsen |
19 Jun 2013
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| med Jonas Jakobsen | ||||||
| Ikaros (7c) | FFA |
9 Jun 2013
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| FFA | ||||||
| Febris (7c) | Baila fra bivuakkhylla på første forsøket, etter at jeg begynte å kaste opp. Direkte linje som følger et rissystem (7c) til høyre for Atlantis før den møter Lost and Found i et overhengende riss på tanna (7b+) og videre opp i et dieder til bivuakkhylla på Atlantis. Herfra følger den diedret opp til takoverhengene, hvor man gjør en hard travers ut i et off-widt riss (7c). Vi gikk den allfree, og sightet lengdene fra bivuakkhylla og opp |
19 Aug 2011
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| Baila fra bivuakkhylla på første forsøket, etter at jeg begynte å kaste opp. Direkte linje som følger et rissystem (7c) til høyre for Atlantis før den møter Lost and Found i et overhengende riss på tanna (7b+) og videre opp i et dieder til bivuakkhylla på Atlantis. Herfra følger den diedret opp til takoverhengene, hvor man gjør en hard travers ut i et off-widt riss (7c). Vi gikk den allfree, og sightet lengdene fra bivuakkhylla og opp | ||||||
| Peter Pan (7b+) | Med Andreas Klaström |
29 Jul 2011
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| Med Andreas Klaström | ||||||
| Arctandria (8a+) |
8 Jul 2011
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| Atlantis (7b+) | Med Ole Ivar Lied over 2 dager. |
7 Jul 2011
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| Med Ole Ivar Lied over 2 dager. | ||||||
| Ultima Thule (7b+) | Med Andreas Klarström og Magnus Eriksson. Andreas og jeg gikk alt i fri. |
18 Jun 2011
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| Med Andreas Klarström og Magnus Eriksson. Andreas og jeg gikk alt i fri. | ||||||
| Ultima Thule (7a+) | Team-fri med Bror |
2 Aug 2009
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| Team-fri med Bror | ||||||
| ultimatule (7b+) |
5 Aug 2008
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| Atlantis P4 (5c) | Free at 7a. I did it as 5+ A1. 50m. |
18 Jul 2008
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| Free at 7a. I did it as 5+ A1. 50m. | ||||||
| Atlantis P2 (5c) | Free at 7a. I did it as 5+ A1. 50m. |
18 Jul 2008
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| Free at 7a. I did it as 5+ A1. 50m. | ||||||
| Atlantis P1 (5c) | Free at 7a. I did it as 5+ A1. 50m. |
18 Jul 2008
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| Free at 7a. I did it as 5+ A1. 50m. |