Vertical-Life
Presa Francisco Zarco
69
ASCENTS
65 %
OS RATE
63
ROUTES IN DB
69
ASCENTS
65 %
OS RATE
63
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
| ||||||
| Mexicanito (6b+) | just the first 3-4 moves are hard, the rest just sharp |
7 Apr 2024
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| just the first 3-4 moves are hard, the rest just sharp | ||||||
| Chida la banda (7a) | nice dihedral with a first crux, then the dihedral turns right changing to a little roof where you have the second crux with some very small crimps and pebbles |
6 Apr 2024
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| nice dihedral with a first crux, then the dihedral turns right changing to a little roof where you have the second crux with some very small crimps and pebbles | ||||||
| Chango descalabrado (6a) | awesome, easy route with dihedral and grey slab |
6 Apr 2024
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| awesome, easy route with dihedral and grey slab | ||||||
| Muere Lechugilla (6b) | technical and crimpy, nice one! |
6 Apr 2024
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| technical and crimpy, nice one! | ||||||
| Dedoscopía (6a+) | enjoying the last rays of sun on this fine dihedral |
5 Apr 2024
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| enjoying the last rays of sun on this fine dihedral | ||||||
| Vaquero contemporáneo (7a+) | The line which catches the eye first, nice fingercracks with some savage ringlocks through an orange wall, kingline! |
5 Apr 2024
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| The line which catches the eye first, nice fingercracks with some savage ringlocks through an orange wall, kingline! | ||||||
| A Pelo (6c) | awesome long and crimpy route, 100% Presa-style |
5 Apr 2024
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| awesome long and crimpy route, 100% Presa-style | ||||||
| Francesito (6a) | nice short warmup, didn't try the extension because of the hornets flying around me haha |
5 Apr 2024
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| nice short warmup, didn't try the extension because of the hornets flying around me haha | ||||||
| Prendele ahí (6c+) | beautiful long route, hard crimpy dihedral for the first 5 bolts up to the jug, then another slab-section with a nice crack and some incuts (very runout!) + the top part which is really steep and a bit sandy, very hard for 11b in my option more like 11c/d |
5 Jan 2024
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| beautiful long route, hard crimpy dihedral for the first 5 bolts up to the jug, then another slab-section with a nice crack and some incuts (very runout!) + the top part which is really steep and a bit sandy, very hard for 11b in my option more like 11c/d | ||||||
| Orion (6b) | 3rd crimpy route before the sun came, next time I want to do the multipitch |
5 Jan 2024
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| 3rd crimpy route before the sun came, next time I want to do the multipitch | ||||||
| Chaturanga (6b+) | another crimpy one, second rohte of the day...really nice and cold day at la Presa |
5 Jan 2024
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| another crimpy one, second rohte of the day...really nice and cold day at la Presa | ||||||
| Los Ojos (6b+) | nice crimpy route, 100% presa-style |
5 Jan 2024
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| nice crimpy route, 100% presa-style | ||||||
| La Mocha (7a+) | great route up the pillar of Reliz de los Venados, first 3 bolts go through an akward offwidth (hard to reach bolt 3!), then very good rest and a crimpy crux through the arete of the pillar, then easy topout to enjoy the panoramic view of Río Nazas, great and cold day again with Cristian |
23 Dec 2023
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| great route up the pillar of Reliz de los Venados, first 3 bolts go through an akward offwidth (hard to reach bolt 3!), then very good rest and a crimpy crux through the arete of the pillar, then easy topout to enjoy the panoramic view of Río Nazas, great and cold day again with Cristian | ||||||
| La Moosmüller (8a) | finally I could snag the second ascend of this awesome route, one of the hardest routes at Presa Francisco Zarco, 5.13b/c...I started with Alberto who made the FA in January 2021, then another 3 trips (summer 2022, summer 2023, November 2023) and now after 21 tries the epic send. Difficult entrance-moves through a corner, then transition to a tufa to the left and a very good ledge at bolt 6 (~12b up to here), then another technical dihedral, a crimpy boulder and another technical boulder to get up to bolt 12 where you have the last bad restpoint (mayby also 12b for this second section), then the crux (~ V6) with 12 hard moves on sidepulls, pintches, underclings, a good pocket and sharp crimps to finish up to the first anker...so happy to finally stick everything, soon I´ll try the virgin extension! |
21 Dec 2023
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| finally I could snag the second ascend of this awesome route, one of the hardest routes at Presa Francisco Zarco, 5.13b/c...I started with Alberto who made the FA in January 2021, then another 3 trips (summer 2022, summer 2023, November 2023) and now after 21 tries the epic send. Difficult entrance-moves through a corner, then transition to a tufa to the left and a very good ledge at bolt 6 (~12b up to here), then another technical dihedral, a crimpy boulder and another technical boulder to get up to bolt 12 where you have the last bad restpoint (mayby also 12b for this second section), then the crux (~ V6) with 12 hard moves on sidepulls, pintches, underclings, a good pocket and sharp crimps to finish up to the first anker...so happy to finally stick everything, soon I´ll try the virgin extension! | ||||||
| La Fer (6b) | awesome multipitch (3 pitches: 10d, 10c/d, 10c) above the Río Nazas bolted by Juan Pablo and Miguel, absolute KINGLINE...lead pitch 1 (technical and crimpy) and pitch 3 (fine cracks to get to the summit) and followed pitch 2, the long and mental traverse |
18 Dec 2023
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| awesome multipitch (3 pitches: 10d, 10c/d, 10c) above the Río Nazas bolted by Juan Pablo and Miguel, absolute KINGLINE...lead pitch 1 (technical and crimpy) and pitch 3 (fine cracks to get to the summit) and followed pitch 2, the long and mental traverse | ||||||
| Halcón (6c) | many tiny sharp crimps and tricky feet all the way up more than 30 meters, a big challenge of concentration |
2 Nov 2023
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| many tiny sharp crimps and tricky feet all the way up more than 30 meters, a big challenge of concentration | ||||||
| Gillette (6b) | very nice and sharp warmup |
2 Nov 2023
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| very nice and sharp warmup | ||||||
| Las Virgenes (7a) | awesome finger-crack at the start, crux between bolt 2 and 3 with 3 bad finger-jams, high feet and a throw to the opening crack, the upper part of the crack isn´t that beautiful but still nice |
17 Jul 2023
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| awesome finger-crack at the start, crux between bolt 2 and 3 with 3 bad finger-jams, high feet and a throw to the opening crack, the upper part of the crack isn´t that beautiful but still nice | ||||||
| Sobrevive Lechugilla (7a) | sustained vertical crimp-route, hard crux at bolt 4 (bad side-crimps to the right + bad feet) and another hard crux at the last bolt 8 (good pocket to 3 very bad crimps in a row, step the pocket and go to good crimp), awesome route, however 3 tries in total, very very hard in my opinion for 11+ (or was it because of the heat??? hahaha) |
16 Jul 2023
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| sustained vertical crimp-route, hard crux at bolt 4 (bad side-crimps to the right + bad feet) and another hard crux at the last bolt 8 (good pocket to 3 very bad crimps in a row, step the pocket and go to good crimp), awesome route, however 3 tries in total, very very hard in my opinion for 11+ (or was it because of the heat??? hahaha) | ||||||
| El Wizilache (7b) | awesome line above the water, climbed 2 times the first hard boulder (~V4) just to fail at the pumpy long traverse on underclings, on the third try I finally pased the technical part of the traverse and got to the chimney where you can sit-down, rest and jump in the water (or try the next (very hard) boulder) |
14 Aug 2022
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| awesome line above the water, climbed 2 times the first hard boulder (~V4) just to fail at the pumpy long traverse on underclings, on the third try I finally pased the technical part of the traverse and got to the chimney where you can sit-down, rest and jump in the water (or try the next (very hard) boulder) |