Vertical-Life
下帝釈峡
23
ASCENTS
4 %
OS RATE
22
ROUTES IN DB
23
ASCENTS
4 %
OS RATE
22
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Top Gun (7b+) | The longest line of the crag and definitely worth climbing despite being seriously runout after the fourth bolt (12 bolts on 35m)! Starts off with a 6B+ boulder right off the start and then continues with pumpy climbing on slopey edges and crimps up until the 7th bolt. After that, the climbing gets considerably easier but still requires a bit of caution due to quite a bit of loose rubble in the upper section. Turned out to be a bit of a fight with the conditions. Tried it twice after sending "Kusanagi" last week but didn't have enough gas in the tank to send it. Today it was still wet at the beginning of the day due to the rain of the previous two days so I had to wait until the late afternoon to send it. Quite happy that I was able to send another iconic route here at Hanako! Definitely on the harder side of 7b+. Original grade: 5.12c ~ 2d/5t Video |
14 May 2022
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| The longest line of the crag and definitely worth climbing despite being seriously runout after the fourth bolt (12 bolts on 35m)! Starts off with a 6B+ boulder right off the start and then continues with pumpy climbing on slopey edges and crimps up until the 7th bolt. After that, the climbing gets considerably easier but still requires a bit of caution due to quite a bit of loose rubble in the upper section. Turned out to be a bit of a fight with the conditions. Tried it twice after sending "Kusanagi" last week but didn't have enough gas in the tank to send it. Today it was still wet at the beginning of the day due to the rain of the previous two days so I had to wait until the late afternoon to send it. Quite happy that I was able to send another iconic route here at Hanako! Definitely on the harder side of 7b+. Original grade: 5.12c ~ 2d/5t
Video | ||||||
| 花よりコルネ (7a+) | Nice 12a |
8 May 2022
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| Nice 12a | ||||||
| 草薙 Kusanagi (7c+) | Extremely happy with that send and my most "flashy" finish of a route so far! Was pumped out of my mind when reaching the chains due to not being fully warmed up yet. Didn't realize that I climbed my first 5.13a in Japan until Yanase-san told me when I got back to the ground ^^ (Originally thought that Yanase-san said it was roughly the same grade as "Orochi"). "Kusanagi" is the extension of "Orochi" and the placement of the anchor for "Kusanagi" made it much more logical for me to try and climb the full line instead of just "Orochi". The climbing in the first part is mostly athletic on good tufas with a short crux right before a really good rest. Afterwards one has to climb the crux of "Orochi", pass the chains and fire another boulder on small holds and a dynamic finish on quite good holds to the final jug of "Kusanagi". As a remark, the naming of this route is really fitting. "Orochi" is a legendary eight-headed snake in Japanese mythology and "Kusanagi" is a legendary sword that was born from its tail. Tried "Orochi" once three years ago but never the full line. Original grade: 5.13a Video |
8 May 2022
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| Extremely happy with that send and my most "flashy" finish of a route so far! Was pumped out of my mind when reaching the chains due to not being fully warmed up yet. Didn't realize that I climbed my first 5.13a in Japan until Yanase-san told me when I got back to the ground ^^ (Originally thought that Yanase-san said it was roughly the same grade as "Orochi"). "Kusanagi" is the extension of "Orochi" and the placement of the anchor for "Kusanagi" made it much more logical for me to try and climb the full line instead of just "Orochi". The climbing in the first part is mostly athletic on good tufas with a short crux right before a really good rest. Afterwards one has to climb the crux of "Orochi", pass the chains and fire another boulder on small holds and a dynamic finish on quite good holds to the final jug of "Kusanagi". As a remark, the naming of this route is really fitting. "Orochi" is a legendary eight-headed snake in Japanese mythology and "Kusanagi" is a legendary sword that was born from its tail. Tried "Orochi" once three years ago but never the full line. Original grade: 5.13a
Video | ||||||
| オロチ Orochi (7c) | 7b+/c. Really cool line put up and first ascended by Yanase-san! Awesone, athletic power-endurance climbing on tufas and crimps (almost like in lower Austria :P) lead to a good rest with the crux boulder to the chains looming around the corner. The crux is getting to the chains and then actually clipping the top. Due to this, I decided to directly try to climb the full line (草薙 Kusanagi) which made more sense to me. Tried Orochi once three years ago and really liked both the climbing and the name of the route (Orochi is a legendary eight-headed snake and Kusanagi is a legendary sword that was born from its tail) so this line was on my list of climbs that I absolutely wanted to do at some point. ~2d/3t Video (0:00-3:45) |
8 May 2022
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| 7b+/c. Really cool line put up and first ascended by Yanase-san! Awesone, athletic power-endurance climbing on tufas and crimps (almost like in lower Austria :P) lead to a good rest with the crux boulder to the chains looming around the corner. The crux is getting to the chains and then actually clipping the top. Due to this, I decided to directly try to climb the full line (草薙 Kusanagi) which made more sense to me. Tried Orochi once three years ago and really liked both the climbing and the name of the route (Orochi is a legendary eight-headed snake and Kusanagi is a legendary sword that was born from its tail) so this line was on my list of climbs that I absolutely wanted to do at some point. ~2d/3t
Video (0:00-3:45) | ||||||
| バイアグラ (6c+) | Had a really good onsight go on this one but got lost in the crux section. Took me quite some time to figure out a (quite morpho) beta that worked in the end. The first half is first quite straightforward steep climbing on jugs that changes apruptly to face climbing on really small features followed by a jug rest before the slightly overhanging crux starts. After the crux it's basically over, provided your fingers fit in the crack that leads to the top. Unfortunately theres a tree right in the fall zone of tge crux so it's either better to be certain to not fall at the crux or, alternatively extend the crux draw. Original grade: 5.11c |
30 Mar 2022
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| Had a really good onsight go on this one but got lost in the crux section. Took me quite some time to figure out a (quite morpho) beta that worked in the end. The first half is first quite straightforward steep climbing on jugs that changes apruptly to face climbing on really small features followed by a jug rest before the slightly overhanging crux starts. After the crux it's basically over, provided your fingers fit in the crack that leads to the top. Unfortunately theres a tree right in the fall zone of tge crux so it's either better to be certain to not fall at the crux or, alternatively extend the crux draw. Original grade: 5.11c | ||||||
| ちょっとだけKY活動 (7a) | Switched to something "easier" after not finding any good beta for the upper crux of "Mon Ami". This route has the same start as レッドチリ but goes left where レッドチリ starts to become harder. The crux is basically a one move mantle move off a really small two finger sloper sidepull after having climbed some pumpy meters before. After that it's basically a pumpy jughaul with good rests at almost every bolt (which were certainly needed today) and another mini crux to the top. Nice climbing but a bit wild in certain parts and two or three parts where one really shouldn't fall. Felt hard like most of the things here. Original grade: 5.11d |
29 Mar 2022
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| Switched to something "easier" after not finding any good beta for the upper crux of "Mon Ami". This route has the same start as レッドチリ but goes left where レッドチリ starts to become harder. The crux is basically a one move mantle move off a really small two finger sloper sidepull after having climbed some pumpy meters before. After that it's basically a pumpy jughaul with good rests at almost every bolt (which were certainly needed today) and another mini crux to the top. Nice climbing but a bit wild in certain parts and two or three parts where one really shouldn't fall. Felt hard like most of the things here. Original grade: 5.11d | ||||||
| しゃくとり大先生 (7b+) | Wow, this is surely one of the best routes in that grade range that I have climbed so far! Incredible flow and unique movements on perfect rock. This route has quite a morpho crux so it took me really long to figure out a way for me to do it after climbing the pumpy part before and still retaining enough energy to do the pumpy finish. The route can be basically divided into 4 sections. The first part is very easy climbing that works really well as a warmup. Then comes some really nice but slightly pumpy face climbing into an OK rest. After that, the real business starts with some athletic climbing that leads into the morpho crux and finishes on a bad rest on slopers. The last meters to the top are not particularly hard but I got pumped out of my mind after having climbed the lower part already (could also still have been the jetlag) so I had to give it a real fight to reach the chains. As with every route here that I have climbed so far, it felt quite hard (would easily deserve 7c I think). ~3d/7t Original grade: 5.12c Video |
25 Mar 2022
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| Wow, this is surely one of the best routes in that grade range that I have climbed so far! Incredible flow and unique movements on perfect rock. This route has quite a morpho crux so it took me really long to figure out a way for me to do it after climbing the pumpy part before and still retaining enough energy to do the pumpy finish. The route can be basically divided into 4 sections. The first part is very easy climbing that works really well as a warmup. Then comes some really nice but slightly pumpy face climbing into an OK rest. After that, the real business starts with some athletic climbing that leads into the morpho crux and finishes on a bad rest on slopers. The last meters to the top are not particularly hard but I got pumped out of my mind after having climbed the lower part already (could also still have been the jetlag) so I had to give it a real fight to reach the chains. As with every route here that I have climbed so far, it felt quite hard (would easily deserve 7c I think). ~3d/7t Original grade: 5.12c
Video | ||||||
| Danger Zone (7a+) | Quite a long route with an amazing, slightly overhanging headwall but very fragile rock in the middle (hence the name I suppose). Due to a really good no-hands rest before the upper part, it's almost as climbing two routes. First an OK 6b+ to the rest and then 10 meters of really cool 7a+ climbing to the anchor without any rest and the crux at the end. Put up the draws on Monday and sent it Tuesday as a "warmup" which might not have been the best idea considering how badly it pumped me (might also have been the jetlag). Felt hard for 7a+ and is definitely harder than バラクーダ. The Video this time shows only the upper part of the climb. Original grade: 5.12a Video |
23 Mar 2022
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| Quite a long route with an amazing, slightly overhanging headwall but very fragile rock in the middle (hence the name I suppose). Due to a really good no-hands rest before the upper part, it's almost as climbing two routes. First an OK 6b+ to the rest and then 10 meters of really cool 7a+ climbing to the anchor without any rest and the crux at the end. Put up the draws on Monday and sent it Tuesday as a "warmup" which might not have been the best idea considering how badly it pumped me (might also have been the jetlag). Felt hard for 7a+ and is definitely harder than バラクーダ. The Video this time shows only the upper part of the climb. Original grade: 5.12a
Video | ||||||
| レッドチリ (7b) | Wild, long, partly runout line to the top of the cliff. Very long for Japanese standards (30m) with many distinct, hard crux sections separated by really good rests. Really liked the aesthetics on this line with its small holds along the prominent black streak on the headwall. Due to the approaching blizzard a fight with numb toes and cold fingers but I was still lucky enough to pull it off. The suggested grade is 5.12b but I think even in Japan this one could possibly deserve 5.12c due to the non-trivial nature of some of the hard sections. Video |
17 Dec 2021
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| Wild, long, partly runout line to the top of the cliff. Very long for Japanese standards (30m) with many distinct, hard crux sections separated by really good rests. Really liked the aesthetics on this line with its small holds along the prominent black streak on the headwall. Due to the approaching blizzard a fight with numb toes and cold fingers but I was still lucky enough to pull it off. The suggested grade is 5.12b but I think even in Japan this one could possibly deserve 5.12c due to the non-trivial nature of some of the hard sections.
Video | ||||||
| アナコンダ Ex. (7b+) | The extension of アナコンダ. Adds another ~10 meters of really cool pumpy climbing on small crimps and sloping edges without any rest between the two anchors. The extension just by itself could already be 5.12c outside of Japan so one does need a little bit of juice left after climbing アナコンダ first in order to pull all the moves. Absolutely worth climbing this extension even for people who have already climbed アナコンダ previously! ~1d/3t Original grade: 5.12c Video |
16 Dec 2021
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| The extension of アナコンダ. Adds another ~10 meters of really cool pumpy climbing on small crimps and sloping edges without any rest between the two anchors. The extension just by itself could already be 5.12c outside of Japan so one does need a little bit of juice left after climbing アナコンダ first in order to pull all the moves. Absolutely worth climbing this extension even for people who have already climbed アナコンダ previously! ~1d/3t Original grade: 5.12c
Video | ||||||
| アナコンダ (7b) | Very much my style of climbing! Vertical face climbing with distinct powerful and technical cruxes separated by good rests. Tried to climb it once two years ago after sending バラクーダ in the sweltering summer heat but the heat made it impossible back then. I properly took notes back then in order to not forget the crux sequence which made it much easier this time around. Still took a couple of tries due to some fuckups with the rope the first time I tried. Like most of the climbs here quite hard for the grade. ~3d/6t Original grade: 5.12b Video |
16 Dec 2021
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| Very much my style of climbing! Vertical face climbing with distinct powerful and technical cruxes separated by good rests. Tried to climb it once two years ago after sending バラクーダ in the sweltering summer heat but the heat made it impossible back then. I properly took notes back then in order to not forget the crux sequence which made it much easier this time around. Still took a couple of tries due to some fuckups with the rope the first time I tried. Like most of the climbs here quite hard for the grade. ~3d/6t Original grade: 5.12b
Video | ||||||
| ブエナ・ビスタ・ソシアル・クラブ (6c+) | Interesting short route with two hard cruxes, one at the start and one right before the chains. Instead of a warmup, this turned into a day project needing three tries and about an hour of figuring out the beta, in particular for the upper crux. Felt considerably harder than the originally proposed 5.11b/c rating. Video |
10 Dec 2021
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| Interesting short route with two hard cruxes, one at the start and one right before the chains. Instead of a warmup, this turned into a day project needing three tries and about an hour of figuring out the beta, in particular for the upper crux. Felt considerably harder than the originally proposed 5.11b/c rating.
Video | ||||||
| バラクーダ (7a+) | Without a doubt one of the best climbs in the area! The line just climbs wonderful and has not a single nasty/bad move in it. Had around 25°C and 90% humidity when I climbed it, so not optimal but I was still happy that I sent it regardless of the conditions. Now I can wear my バラクーダ T-shirt with pride! Felt easier than 花よりコルネ with the right beta. 5.12a |
9 Jun 2019
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| Without a doubt one of the best climbs in the area! The line just climbs wonderful and has not a single nasty/bad move in it. Had around 25°C and 90% humidity when I climbed it, so not optimal but I was still happy that I sent it regardless of the conditions. Now I can wear my バラクーダ T-shirt with pride! Felt easier than 花よりコルネ with the right beta. 5.12a | ||||||
| くり御飯 (6b+) | Climbs better than it looks. Almost only pockets. Very unusual for the area. 5.11b |
9 Jun 2019
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| Climbs better than it looks. Almost only pockets. Very unusual for the area. 5.11b | ||||||
| Over Play (6b+) | Hard crux and slippery climbing. 5.11a |
9 Jun 2019
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| Hard crux and slippery climbing. 5.11a | ||||||
| 後1cmの恋 (6b) | Nice route using the obvious tufas. A little bit more powerful than I originally thought it would be. With the right beta good to manage. Video |
20 Apr 2019
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| Nice route using the obvious tufas. A little bit more powerful than I originally thought it would be. With the right beta good to manage.
Video | ||||||
| 郵便配達は2度ベルを鳴らす (7b) | 3rd go. Did it with the third draw preclipped. Wasn't able to find a stable clipping position up until a couple of moves after the draw and didn't want to risk a ground fall on my first day after two weeks of food poisoning. Very nice starting moves, powerful middle section and delicate finish. Video |
20 Apr 2019
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| 3rd go. Did it with the third draw preclipped. Wasn't able to find a stable clipping position up until a couple of moves after the draw and didn't want to risk a ground fall on my first day after two weeks of food poisoning. Very nice starting moves, powerful middle section and delicate finish.
Video | ||||||
| 花よりコルネ (7a+) | Extremely nice route! Starts with Steinwandklamm-like faceclimbing on rounded crimps and pinches and then changes onto slightly overhanging powerful climbing along a couple of tufas. Preclipped the first two because of possible ground fall. In particular going from the 5th bolt to the 6th one chickened me out in the beginning but I managed to do it without problems on the second day after finding a good rest after the third bolt by coincidence (crimp pinch on the right side). Took me two real tries in total in addition to setting up the draws twice and checking out moves with the clipstick, so four in total. Original grade was 5.12a. |
17 Mar 2019
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| Extremely nice route! Starts with Steinwandklamm-like faceclimbing on rounded crimps and pinches and then changes onto slightly overhanging powerful climbing along a couple of tufas. Preclipped the first two because of possible ground fall. In particular going from the 5th bolt to the 6th one chickened me out in the beginning but I managed to do it without problems on the second day after finding a good rest after the third bolt by coincidence (crimp pinch on the right side). Took me two real tries in total in addition to setting up the draws twice and checking out moves with the clipstick, so four in total. Original grade was 5.12a. | ||||||
| サルも木から落ちるかも (6c+) | Nice, but very short climb. Powerful moves on small sidepulls and crimps. Original grade: 5.11b |
17 Mar 2019
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| Nice, but very short climb. Powerful moves on small sidepulls and crimps. Original grade: 5.11b | ||||||
| まだまだ (6c+) | Second birthday present! Very nice and for Japanese standards atypical endurance route. Almost 30m long and very nice moves! Original grade: 5.11c |
12 Apr 2017
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| Second birthday present! Very nice and for Japanese standards atypical endurance route. Almost 30m long and very nice moves! Original grade: 5.11c |