Vertical-Life
Biccyu
118
ASCENTS
18 %
OS RATE
89
ROUTES IN DB
118
ASCENTS
18 %
OS RATE
89
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Ryouteni hanano shita (7a) |
27 Apr 2024
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| Mizu no awa (7b) | Excelente, com dinâmico fanático no fim. No topo está de 7a+ / b, noutra falésia seria 7b+ |
27 Apr 2024
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| Excelente, com dinâmico fanático no fim. No topo está de 7a+ / b, noutra falésia seria 7b+ | ||||||
| Second spring (7a) |
27 Apr 2024
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| ぬれた豆 (7a+) | No croqui que tenho está de 7a. Muito boa e dura |
26 Apr 2024
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| No croqui que tenho está de 7a. Muito boa e dura | ||||||
| Terashima route (7a+) |
26 Apr 2024
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| Shōnen no korega Bdesu (7a) |
25 Apr 2024
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| Yoidewa naika (7a+) |
25 Apr 2024
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| count down (7a+) | No croqui 7a+/b. Para mim 7b sólido. Bloco rijo no final 👌 |
23 Apr 2024
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| No croqui 7a+/b. Para mim 7b sólido. Bloco rijo no final 👌 | ||||||
| Morisama (7a+) | No croqui 7a+/b, de onde eu vejo seria 7b duro. |
23 Apr 2024
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| No croqui 7a+/b, de onde eu vejo seria 7b duro. | ||||||
| Kid jet (7a) |
23 Apr 2024
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| Morisama (7a+) | Maybe the most popular 5.12a here. Was pretty packed with people on Sunday so I had to wait until Monday in order to try it. Starts of with some easy climbing that ends abruptly at the first crux. Afterwards comes a very good rest followed by a sceond crux and a pumpy finish to the top. Original grade: 5.12a/b Video |
27 Feb 2023
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| Maybe the most popular 5.12a here. Was pretty packed with people on Sunday so I had to wait until Monday in order to try it. Starts of with some easy climbing that ends abruptly at the first crux. Afterwards comes a very good rest followed by a sceond crux and a pumpy finish to the top. Original grade: 5.12a/b
Video | ||||||
| 無名 Name Unknow (6a) | Another nails hard warmup. Almost fell off the crux section but somehow managed to stay on. Kind of weird climbing at the start with all holds facing the wrong way and tricky feet. A new route that has a name, apparently, but nobody remembered it. One or two routes to the left of "Pants in the gym". |
12 Feb 2023
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| Another nails hard warmup. Almost fell off the crux section but somehow managed to stay on. Kind of weird climbing at the start with all holds facing the wrong way and tricky feet. A new route that has a name, apparently, but nobody remembered it. One or two routes to the left of "Pants in the gym". | ||||||
| ただのアプローチ Just an approach (6a+) | Nails hard, polished climbing and the first pitch leading to 美しくカンテ (Beautiful arete). One of my prouder onsights, considering I haven't been climbing regularly on a rope for almost four months pretty happy with how that went. The extensions, unfortunately did not go down this weekend due to my currently non-existent endurance. Maybe next time... |
11 Feb 2023
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| Nails hard, polished climbing and the first pitch leading to 美しくカンテ (Beautiful arete). One of my prouder onsights, considering I haven't been climbing regularly on a rope for almost four months pretty happy with how that went. The extensions, unfortunately did not go down this weekend due to my currently non-existent endurance. Maybe next time... | ||||||
| Terrace made (6c) | Nice, very short warmup on good crimps up to the starting ledge of "Project X". Original name and grade: テラスまで 5.11b |
22 May 2022
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| Nice, very short warmup on good crimps up to the starting ledge of "Project X". Original name and grade: テラスまで 5.11b | ||||||
| スーパーもも Super Momo (7b) | The extension of "Momo" but actually the more logical end in my opinion as the "Momo" anchor is placed a bit weirdly and is hard to clip. THE most famous route in Bittchu and for a good reason. Starts off with an athletic boulder into a no-hands rest. After that its slightly pumpy but not really hard climbing for another 15 meters until a very distinct crux followed by pumpy, "Rangi-esque" climbing right until the first anchor. Passing the first anchor leads to a tricky but good rest before the final tricky finishing moves to the second anchor. I got a really bad flash-pump after the "Momo" crux so I had to give 100% to make it to the top. Very satsified to end this trip with this send! Video |
21 May 2022
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| The extension of "Momo" but actually the more logical end in my opinion as the "Momo" anchor is placed a bit weirdly and is hard to clip. THE most famous route in Bittchu and for a good reason. Starts off with an athletic boulder into a no-hands rest. After that its slightly pumpy but not really hard climbing for another 15 meters until a very distinct crux followed by pumpy, "Rangi-esque" climbing right until the first anchor. Passing the first anchor leads to a tricky but good rest before the final tricky finishing moves to the second anchor. I got a really bad flash-pump after the "Momo" crux so I had to give 100% to make it to the top. Very satsified to end this trip with this send!
Video | ||||||
| Momo (7a+) | Actually climbed all the way to the second anchor, but this still means I get to log this climb as well :p. Deservedly a classic of the crag and well known to everybody who climbs regularly at Bittchu! Video |
21 May 2022
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| Actually climbed all the way to the second anchor, but this still means I get to log this climb as well :p. Deservedly a classic of the crag and well known to everybody who climbs regularly at Bittchu!
Video | ||||||
| 女王様 (Queen) (7b) |
5 May 2022
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| ぬれた豆 (7a+) | Nice move |
3 May 2022
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| Nice move | ||||||
| Kuroshima no kousaten (6c+) | Nice short climb with an interesting (and not easy) 3 bolt boulder problem right from the start. The remainder to the top is considerably easier but still fun to climb. |
29 Apr 2022
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| Nice short climb with an interesting (and not easy) 3 bolt boulder problem right from the start. The remainder to the top is considerably easier but still fun to climb. | ||||||
| Terashima route (7a+) | One of the most famous routes in that area I guess. Tried it once 6 years ago in Winter I think but didn't really like it back then. This time a gave it another try in really bad conditions and was still not 100% convinced whether or not I liked the route ^^. Two-thirds of the climbing is actually great fun on huge tufas with a short one-move boulder between the third and fourth bolt. Once the tufas end, there is another two-move boulder on bad, slippery holds followed by some moderate climbing into another semi-good rest right before the top where the last crux looms. The last crux is another one-move wonder involving tricky feet and a long move to a good sidepull. Felt hard, but I guess this was also partly due to the high humidity today and the fact that all cruxes are basically one-move wonders. Original name and grade: 寺島ルート 5.12a ~2d/4t Video |
23 Apr 2022
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| One of the most famous routes in that area I guess. Tried it once 6 years ago in Winter I think but didn't really like it back then. This time a gave it another try in really bad conditions and was still not 100% convinced whether or not I liked the route ^^. Two-thirds of the climbing is actually great fun on huge tufas with a short one-move boulder between the third and fourth bolt. Once the tufas end, there is another two-move boulder on bad, slippery holds followed by some moderate climbing into another semi-good rest right before the top where the last crux looms. The last crux is another one-move wonder involving tricky feet and a long move to a good sidepull. Felt hard, but I guess this was also partly due to the high humidity today and the fact that all cruxes are basically one-move wonders. Original name and grade: 寺島ルート 5.12a ~2d/4t
Video |