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DESCRIPTION
This crag is a small tunnel-like cave with a useful stone ledge on the right where you can relax. The routes are easy to recognize and are spread throughout the cave. The rock is compact limestone, white and dark grey in color. On the front face the climbs are technical, mostly vertical or slightly overhanging. Inside, the roof is very steep and requires a lot of strength, with bouldery moves using heel hooks, toe hooks and knee bars. You can climb inside the cave even during heavy rain, although the top-outs may get wet. After several days of bad weather, some parts of the wall can stay damp and the river may be difficult to cross. The best seasons are spring (if dry), summer and autumn, with late summer and early autumn offering the best conditions. Climbing is also possible in winter, especially in recent years when warm African anticyclones often bring dry, mild weather and little snow. The crag faces North to North-West, shaded by the opposite slope. It only gets sun for a few hours in late afternoon during summer. The cave offers an amazing view over the valley, but be careful: just outside there is a drop of several meters. Take care not to fall, especially if pets or children are with you. There are currently two open projects, with estimated grades of 8a and 8b.
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ACCESS
Park at Case Botteri in ValโฏCorsaglia (GPSโฏ44.288003โฏN, 7.833700โฏE). Leave your car on the right side of the road just past the small village, keeping the river on your right. You will see the crag right away: itโs a large cave on the other side of the river.
To get there quickly, cross the river using the fixed ropes and head for the small โbeachโ on the other side. From there, take the path marked by piles of stones. A little further on, on your right, thereโs another fixed rope going up a steep slope. Follow this, again using the stone piles and ropes as guides, for about ten minutes. You will reach the cave from behind (the cave is like a tunnel). The whole walk from the car takes about 15 minutes.
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