Vertical-Life
Cima Scotoni
10
ASCENTS
50 %
OS RATE
4
ROUTES IN DB
10
ASCENTS
50 %
OS RATE
4
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Lacedelli (7a) |
24 Sep 2023
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| Lacedelli (7a) | Lead until 1st band |
11 Aug 2023
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| Lead until 1st band | ||||||
| Non abbiate paura di sognare (8a) | We didn't finish the route (climbed 19 pitches to 2nd ledge and descended), but I log this for the awesome day that it was 🙂 There is a lot of beta on PM (shorturl.at/rwyTX, shorturl.at/gnuF7). It's indeed a very worthwhile route. I think that one set of cams from green alien to #3 C4 is sufficient, with some doubles yellow-grey-red aliens maybe. Generally the climbing is kinda run out on pitons and there isn't much in terms of additional gear. I did the "8b" pitch on my third try (following), my feeling was that it is around 8a. I found the 7b+ pitches above quite difficult, as it is generally hard to see the holds. Due to the loose rock and sometimes tricky navigation, it's hard to climb quickly, especially on the easier pitches. It took us 13h from the start to the 2nd ledge (19 out of 24 pitches). We swapped leads (all OS, except for 2 tries each on the crux which Much redpointed and I followed clean). We didn't free the 14th pitch (~8a, very loose and steep/traversing). From then on I pulled on gear but Much led to the ledge (os) as I was totally out of gas:) Overall, we had an awesome time. |
18 Jun 2022
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| We didn't finish the route (climbed 19 pitches to 2nd ledge and descended), but I log this for the awesome day that it was 🙂
There is a lot of beta on PM (shorturl.at/rwyTX, shorturl.at/gnuF7). It's indeed a very worthwhile route. I think that one set of cams from green alien to #3 C4 is sufficient, with some doubles yellow-grey-red aliens maybe. Generally the climbing is kinda run out on pitons and there isn't much in terms of additional gear. I did the "8b" pitch on my third try (following), my feeling was that it is around 8a. I found the 7b+ pitches above quite difficult, as it is generally hard to see the holds. Due to the loose rock and sometimes tricky navigation, it's hard to climb quickly, especially on the easier pitches. It took us 13h from the start to the 2nd ledge (19 out of 24 pitches). We swapped leads (all OS, except for 2 tries each on the crux which Much redpointed and I followed clean). We didn't free the 14th pitch (~8a, very loose and steep/traversing). From then on I pulled on gear but Much led to the ledge (os) as I was totally out of gas:) Overall, we had an awesome time. | ||||||
| Lacedelli (7a) | 2a, 4a, 4a, 7a, 5c+, 5b, 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b, 5b, 5a, 6a+, 5c+, 5b, 5a, 4a |
23 Jun 2021
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| 2a, 4a, 4a, 7a, 5c+, 5b, 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b, 5b, 5a, 6a+, 5c+, 5b, 5a, 4a | ||||||
| Skotonata Galactica (7b) | Ta ni za točke, tezje cuge sem plezala na topica. Detajl 2p. Ocena je pa tudi precej simbolicna, zares bolj 7a+, v vodnicku pise 7c, no, to sigurno ni. Čudovita smer v čudovitem ambientu! |
14 Sep 2020
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| Ta ni za točke, tezje cuge sem plezala na topica. Detajl 2p. Ocena je pa tudi precej simbolicna, zares bolj 7a+, v vodnicku pise 7c, no, to sigurno ni. Čudovita smer v čudovitem ambientu! | ||||||
| Lacedelli (6a) | ca. 16 pitches, up to VI+/A0 (free ~VIII, but fragile, sandy rock & bad pitons) |
3 Aug 2013
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| ca. 16 pitches, up to VI+/A0 (free ~VIII, but fragile, sandy rock & bad pitons) | ||||||
| Via Ivano Dibona (7b+) | ca.650m 15SL (original 18SL 6+/A2) My rating for freeclimbing: 1SL55m 5b, 2SL40m 5b, 3SL35m 7b+, 4SL25m 6a, 5SL40m 6a, 6SL ca.70m 4&3, 7SL50m 5b, 8SL50m 6a+,9SL45m 6b+, 10SL45m 7b, 11SL50m 6a+,12SL ca.40m 4c, 13SL40m 5a, 14SL40m 4b,15SL 50m 4b) You need 25 quickdraws, camalots #0.5-#2, a set of nuts middel size and a lot of slings 60cm-180cm. Second day on the route - All cruxpitches on lead without preparation. THX Petra for motivation, perfect teamwork and belay. |
26 Aug 2010
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| ca.650m 15SL (original 18SL 6+/A2)
My rating for freeclimbing:
1SL55m 5b, 2SL40m 5b, 3SL35m 7b+, 4SL25m 6a, 5SL40m 6a, 6SL ca.70m 4&3, 7SL50m 5b, 8SL50m 6a+,9SL45m 6b+, 10SL45m 7b, 11SL50m 6a+,12SL ca.40m 4c, 13SL40m 5a, 14SL40m 4b,15SL 50m 4b)
You need 25 quickdraws, camalots #0.5-#2, a set of nuts middel size and a lot of slings 60cm-180cm.
Second day on the route -
All cruxpitches on lead without preparation.
THX Petra for motivation, perfect teamwork and belay. | ||||||
| Skotonata Galactica (7b+) | Multipitch |
25 Jun 2010
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| Multipitch | ||||||
| Skotonata Galactica (7a+) |
7 Sep 2009
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| Skotonata Galactica (7b+) | Multipitch, vse v vodstvu. |
11 Jul 2009
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| Multipitch, vse v vodstvu. |