Vertical-Life
Sauratindar
2
ASCENTS
100 %
OS RATE
2
ROUTES IN DB
2
ASCENTS
100 %
OS RATE
2
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Le vent nous portera (6b+) | E3 5c; The obvious line if you are searching a bit harder but not to hard climbing. Start and follow the right and smaller one of the 2 cracks to the left of "Önnur" below the small roof. Fiddle in some good gear and move powerful on handjams or holds to the left over the roof and follow the crack to the top. Belay a few steps right to a single bolt with a sling of "Önnur". Used gear was #0.2-#3, with double #0.5-#2 and R3+4. |
25 Jul 2023
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| E3 5c; The obvious line if you are searching a bit harder but not to hard climbing. Start and follow the right and smaller one of the 2 cracks to the left of "Önnur" below the small roof. Fiddle in some good gear and move powerful on handjams or holds to the left over the roof and follow the crack to the top. Belay a few steps right to a single bolt with a sling of "Önnur". Used gear was #0.2-#3, with double #0.5-#2 and R3+4. | ||||||
| Austrian Roulette (6c) | E4 6a; The 3 pitches long route runs through the middle of the big roof in the whole left part of the wall and offers dangerous and very loose rock with partly athletic climbing. Certainly one of the most demanding alpine adventures in Iceland. It cannot be ruled out that the 3rd pitch will fall down as a whole one day. P1 (25m, 2): ropefree over very sandy but easy terrain. Belay on the only block that felt not down immediately when touched on the left side of the gully. P2 (20m, 6a+): Heading slightly right on a rightwards leaning ramp to the central slab in the middle below the big roof with a hidden #0.75 on the left and a #0.4+yellow Ballnut to the right. Straight over the slab passing one Pecker to a ledge with #0.2. From a second Pecker go right on a ramp which leads to a #0.3 right before the belay on #2, #0.75, #0.4, #0.3 right of the highest point of weakness of the roof. P3 (25m, 6c): Short but delicate face climbing leads to the first protection below the roof on a #0.3 on the right and a #1+#0.4 to the left. Swing over the rotten roof to a thin seam with C3#0+#00. Follow the dihedral and the seam to a C3#2 where it runs out. Now exit the dihedral to the left. |
25 Jul 2023
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| E4 6a; The 3 pitches long route runs through the middle of the big roof in the whole left part of the wall and offers dangerous and very loose rock with partly athletic climbing. Certainly one of the most demanding alpine adventures in Iceland. It cannot be ruled out that the 3rd pitch will fall down as a whole one day. P1 (25m, 2): ropefree over very sandy but easy terrain. Belay on the only block that felt not down immediately when touched on the left side of the gully.
P2 (20m, 6a+): Heading slightly right on a rightwards leaning ramp to the central slab in the middle below the big roof with a hidden #0.75 on the left and a #0.4+yellow Ballnut to the right. Straight over the slab passing one Pecker to a ledge with #0.2. From a second Pecker go right on a ramp which leads to a #0.3 right before the belay on #2, #0.75, #0.4, #0.3 right of the highest point of weakness of the roof.
P3 (25m, 6c): Short but delicate face climbing leads to the first protection below the roof on a #0.3 on the right and a #1+#0.4 to the left. Swing over the rotten roof to a thin seam with C3#0+#00. Follow the dihedral and the seam to a C3#2 where it runs out. Now exit the dihedral to the left. |