Beacon Hill
3.2
230
ASCENTS
16 %
OS RATE
45
ROUTES IN DB
230
ASCENTS
16 %
OS RATE
45
ROUTES IN DB
Name Style Route Comment Properties Date
Date
Lizard (7a+)
16 Jan 2024
Moon Night Snake (6c)
16 Jan 2024
Spitting Cobra (6b)
16 Jan 2024
Lady First (8a+) Fun little route. Hard to clip the bolts. It is basically just a V8 boulder problem. Old guidebook shows it finishing on the Anchor of the Project out LEFT (around the corner); the New Guidebook has been updated showing it finish RIGHT on the anchor or Angels Wing. I tried both ways and I agree it should finish on the RIGHT. Going Left is easier, less climbing, and will DESTROY your rope on the Arete. Staying Right at the top is slightly harder (still 6a. Very easy… after all the hard climbing is done), more direct and more fun and doesn’t destroy your rope. So definitely finish on the RIGHT anchor if you do this route. It’s also very sharp, so I suggest doing it in winter when it’s less than 21C!
13 Dec 2023
Fun little route. Hard to clip the bolts. It is basically just a V8 boulder problem. Old guidebook shows it finishing on the Anchor of the Project out LEFT (around the corner); the New Guidebook has been updated showing it finish RIGHT on the anchor or Angels Wing. I tried both ways and I agree it should finish on the RIGHT. Going Left is easier, less climbing, and will DESTROY your rope on the Arete. Staying Right at the top is slightly harder (still 6a. Very easy… after all the hard climbing is done), more direct and more fun and doesn’t destroy your rope. So definitely finish on the RIGHT anchor if you do this route. It’s also very sharp, so I suggest doing it in winter when it’s less than 21C!
Astro Boy (8a) Cruxy. Video’s online show several people climb far LEFT (onto Peace Forever) at the bottom crux. I stayed RIGHT (directly up the bolts) as per the guidebook. This is much harder than traversing right (off route?). But more notably: at the TOP: videos online show several people staying FAR FAR left climbing up Lizard, to the finishing JUG on Lizard (big flake), and then instead of clipping the Lizard Anchor, they traverse across the top of the cliff 3 meters Right and clip the Anchor on Astro Boy. Sorry, but that’s not a legitimate ascent. I climbed it as per the guidebook: the crux is a hard travers RIGHT and then finish up the crux of Lizard Family, directly to the Astro Boy Anchor. It’s hard for the grade if you do it correctly. Soft if you go off-route way left and skip the crux at the top. (The Jug on Lizard is NOT part of Astro Boy… that is way way off route way out left far from the bolts).
3 Dec 2023
Cruxy. Video’s online show several people climb far LEFT (onto Peace Forever) at the bottom crux. I stayed RIGHT (directly up the bolts) as per the guidebook. This is much harder than traversing right (off route?). But more notably: at the TOP: videos online show several people staying FAR FAR left climbing up Lizard, to the finishing JUG on Lizard (big flake), and then instead of clipping the Lizard Anchor, they traverse across the top of the cliff 3 meters Right and clip the Anchor on Astro Boy. Sorry, but that’s not a legitimate ascent. I climbed it as per the guidebook: the crux is a hard travers RIGHT and then finish up the crux of Lizard Family, directly to the Astro Boy Anchor. It’s hard for the grade if you do it correctly. Soft if you go off-route way left and skip the crux at the top. (The Jug on Lizard is NOT part of Astro Boy… that is way way off route way out left far from the bolts).
Moon Night Snake (6c)
29 Nov 2023
Blue Cross (6a+)
29 Nov 2023
Spitting Cobra (6b)
22 Nov 2023
Pretty Girl (6a)
22 Nov 2023
Point Break (6b)
7 Apr 2023
Lizard (7a+)
11 Jan 2023
Peace Forever (7b)
10 Jan 2022
Face to Face (7a)
25 Sep 2021
Hardman (7b)
28 Mar 2021
Stone Bird (8a)
13 Jan 2021
Stone Bird (8a) Probably would have onsighted it but my fingers were wrecked from Mission is Possible 15 minutes earlier. Route is a link-up that traverses across the wall. Kinda sketchy going from 3rd to 4th bolt. The bolts on the far right route are ghetto, and the anchors on this wall are shit. Should be replaced with new bolts and chains.
24 Nov 2020
Probably would have onsighted it but my fingers were wrecked from Mission is Possible 15 minutes earlier. Route is a link-up that traverses across the wall. Kinda sketchy going from 3rd to 4th bolt. The bolts on the far right route are ghetto, and the anchors on this wall are shit. Should be replaced with new bolts and chains.
Mission is Possible (8b) Very sharp! Soft for the grade. Probably 8a+/b
24 Nov 2020
Very sharp! Soft for the grade. Probably 8a+/b
Trouble (7a)
15 Apr 2020
Mission is Possible (8a+) No hands rest hence downgrade.
24 Jan 2020
No hands rest hence downgrade.
Cat Ladder (6a)
15 Jan 2020