| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
| ||||||
| Coal Eater (6b+) | Felt kinda' desperate for 5.10, hence the upgrade. Very bouldery on the traverse and not obvious. Some hidden holds are key and the sequence flows much better once you find them. Best route on the crag. |
26 Nov 2023
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| Felt kinda' desperate for 5.10, hence the upgrade. Very bouldery on the traverse and not obvious. Some hidden holds are key and the sequence flows much better once you find them. Best route on the crag. | ||||||
| Roasted Nuts (5b+) | The crux is getting through the small roof. It protects well, but is getting a tad green in places. |
26 Nov 2023
| ||||
| The crux is getting through the small roof. It protects well, but is getting a tad green in places. | ||||||
| Blackberry Quick Step (5c+) | Mixed route on the left side of the crag. Wanders around and bumps into the tree midway up. Bring a few cams up to 2". |
26 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Mixed route on the left side of the crag. Wanders around and bumps into the tree midway up. Bring a few cams up to 2". | ||||||
| Solo Hand Job (5a+) | Very easy and very short. Hard to know how to grade something like this. |
26 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Very easy and very short. Hard to know how to grade something like this. | ||||||
| Rainbow Arete (6b+) | Slopey rails lead to a bulbous arete. The sequence up this feature (left or right) isn't obvious, but the correct method is reachy. Pretty good, but a bit jarring. |
26 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Slopey rails lead to a bulbous arete. The sequence up this feature (left or right) isn't obvious, but the correct method is reachy. Pretty good, but a bit jarring. | ||||||
| Solar Flare (6a) | Boulder getting over the low bulge and into the groove. Above that it's easy street. So, not continuous at all... |
26 Nov 2023
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| Boulder getting over the low bulge and into the groove. Above that it's easy street. So, not continuous at all... | ||||||
| C'est ci Bon (5c) | Best route on the crag. Nice face climbing on various features with a cool finish along the left-hand arete. |
26 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Best route on the crag. Nice face climbing on various features with a cool finish along the left-hand arete. | ||||||
| Sunny Side of the Street (5b+) | Slabby climbing up thin grooves on the left side of the crag. Okay, but the top anchor is in a weird place that makes top-roping awkward and hard on the rope. |
26 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Slabby climbing up thin grooves on the left side of the crag. Okay, but the top anchor is in a weird place that makes top-roping awkward and hard on the rope. | ||||||
| Black Corner (5c) | The slimy black corner on the right side of the sector. Looked worse than it was, but would certainly climb the best when completely dry. Well bolted with cool patina scoops just where you need them. |
23 Nov 2023
| ||||
| The slimy black corner on the right side of the sector. Looked worse than it was, but would certainly climb the best when completely dry. Well bolted with cool patina scoops just where you need them. | ||||||
| Holly Jolly (5b+) | Cracks to face climbing just right of Sugar Plum. Felt a bit easier than that route with a pleasant face section and tricky exit. |
23 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Cracks to face climbing just right of Sugar Plum. Felt a bit easier than that route with a pleasant face section and tricky exit. | ||||||
| Sugar Plum (5c) | Nice slabby face climbing up the black rock in the middle of the zone. Very well bolted with the option to deke right into the adjacent route. Finishes up an easy crack. Bring gear only if you're stressed at the grade. |
23 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Nice slabby face climbing up the black rock in the middle of the zone. Very well bolted with the option to deke right into the adjacent route. Finishes up an easy crack. Bring gear only if you're stressed at the grade. | ||||||
| Holly Jolly Crack (5b) | The deep corner on the left side of the crag starting in a steep groove below the belay area. Nothing to write home about, but not poor either. |
23 Nov 2023
| ||||
| The deep corner on the left side of the crag starting in a steep groove below the belay area. Nothing to write home about, but not poor either. | ||||||
| Slaberwalky (5c+) | Nice slab climbing up the blunt very-well-bolted prow on the right side of the cliff. A good route in a spectacular position with views south down Howe Sound. A great winter spot. Sunny and sheltered from the wind. |
23 Nov 2023
| ||||
| Nice slab climbing up the blunt very-well-bolted prow on the right side of the cliff. A good route in a spectacular position with views south down Howe Sound. A great winter spot. Sunny and sheltered from the wind. | ||||||
| Alter Boy's Part (7a) | An enjoyable route of two contrasting halves. The first is a glassy slab that is trickier than it appears and the second is a short, vertical stem box that looks like a miniature Shadow. Did I mention the closely-spaced bolts? You could A0 this climb if you wanted to. |
24 Sep 2023
| ||||
| An enjoyable route of two contrasting halves. The first is a glassy slab that is trickier than it appears and the second is a short, vertical stem box that looks like a miniature Shadow. Did I mention the closely-spaced bolts? You could A0 this climb if you wanted to. | ||||||
| Wild Onion (6a) | Excellent gear protected face climbing to a beautiful, vertical thin hands crack in a shallow corner. If this was in the Smoke Bluffs, it would see non-stop action. |
24 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Excellent gear protected face climbing to a beautiful, vertical thin hands crack in a shallow corner. If this was in the Smoke Bluffs, it would see non-stop action. | ||||||
| No Name Gram (5b+) | Mostly low-angle face climbing along the left-leaning arete. At one point you could step right into the groove and walk to the anchor! Still, nice to have a route of this grade at the crag. Well bolted! |
24 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Mostly low-angle face climbing along the left-leaning arete. At one point you could step right into the groove and walk to the anchor! Still, nice to have a route of this grade at the crag. Well bolted! | ||||||
| Juicy C-Arete (6b) | A very distinct crux in the lower half of the route and one that's not obvious. Otherwise, pleasant face climbing with lots of bolts. |
24 Sep 2023
| ||||
| A very distinct crux in the lower half of the route and one that's not obvious. Otherwise, pleasant face climbing with lots of bolts. | ||||||
| Grump Kochichka (6c) | Pleasant face climbing and very well bolted. Bounced into Daily Javex a couple of times, which seemed sensible since the lines are very close together. |
24 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Pleasant face climbing and very well bolted. Bounced into Daily Javex a couple of times, which seemed sensible since the lines are very close together. | ||||||
| Song Bird (6a) | Kinda' burly in the beginning. Keep left left at the second bolt, otherwise you'll grovel off route and kill the flow. |
24 Jun 2023
| ||||
| Kinda' burly in the beginning. Keep left left at the second bolt, otherwise you'll grovel off route and kill the flow. | ||||||
| Healing Water (5c+) | The nicest route on the buttress, I thought. Steep climbing up a flaky groove to a techy finish. Good stuff...and super well protected! |
24 Jun 2023
| ||||
| The nicest route on the buttress, I thought. Steep climbing up a flaky groove to a techy finish. Good stuff...and super well protected! |
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Climb to Paris
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