| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Cabin Boys (6b) |
23 Apr 2024
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| Yorkshire Gripper (6c+) |
27 Mar 2024
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| Catch Me Quicker (6b) |
16 Mar 2024
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| Castle Creep (6c) | Good, insecure climbing up a nice arete feature. The bolting is not great though, with decking potential if you blew the 2nd clip. Could probably use another one between the 1st and 2nd. |
15 Mar 2024
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| Good, insecure climbing up a nice arete feature. The bolting is not great though, with decking potential if you blew the 2nd clip. Could probably use another one between the 1st and 2nd. | ||||||
| White Men Can't Jump (7c+) | Felt brutal until it didn't - typical of this ultra techy slab style. A hard boulder problem off the ground to continually insecure climbing. A good addition to the Channel Road area, but I have no idea about the grade... |
14 Mar 2024
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| Felt brutal until it didn't - typical of this ultra techy slab style. A hard boulder problem off the ground to continually insecure climbing. A good addition to the Channel Road area, but I have no idea about the grade... | ||||||
| Leonissisation (7a+) | Really nice, well-protected slab climbing. The first crux is where the glacier polish begins, but it was the upper crux (before the horizontal) that kept spitting me off. Save this one for cool temps.... |
14 Mar 2024
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| Really nice, well-protected slab climbing. The first crux is where the glacier polish begins, but it was the upper crux (before the horizontal) that kept spitting me off. Save this one for cool temps.... | ||||||
| Sneeze Burrito (7b) | I thought the crux would be the steep start, but I was wrong. Cryptic climbing up the off-vertical face led to a very bouldery transition to the left arete. I finished at the anchor above White Men Can't Jump, but there's an anchor on the left slab, too. A good route if you like Smoke Bluffs style bouldery face climbs, which have a very distinct flavour. |
8 Mar 2024
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| I thought the crux would be the steep start, but I was wrong. Cryptic climbing up the off-vertical face led to a very bouldery transition to the left arete. I finished at the anchor above White Men Can't Jump, but there's an anchor on the left slab, too. A good route if you like Smoke Bluffs style bouldery face climbs, which have a very distinct flavour. | ||||||
| Digital Dexterity (7b+) |
14 Dec 2023
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| Kangaroo Corner (6c) |
14 Dec 2023
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| Neat And Cool (6a) |
14 Dec 2023
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| Symptom of Morphology (7b) | I thought was worthwhile and not a squeeze job. Aside from the first two bolts it is all independent climbing. Lots of techie slab high steps and crimpy side pulls. |
23 Nov 2023
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| I thought was worthwhile and not a squeeze job. Aside from the first two bolts it is all independent climbing.
Lots of techie slab high steps and crimpy side pulls. | ||||||
| Kahoukers (7b) |
19 Nov 2023
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| Gaia (7b) | Trust the feet! Classic climbing that is obviously all about footwork. There is a very technical sequence between the 3rd and 4th bolts that feels pretty desperate. |
17 Nov 2023
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| Trust the feet! Classic climbing that is obviously all about footwork. There is a very technical sequence between the 3rd and 4th bolts that feels pretty desperate. | ||||||
| Fear of Felons (6b) | This two-pitch route is on the right side of Crystal Wall. The first pitch is okay bolted slab climbing, but it features a mid-pitch mantel above a slab landing that is off-putting (an overhead bolt would improve this). The second pitch is kind of silly in my opinion. You have to make a hard move to get to the first bolt and then aid (A0) off it to get to the second. Kind of a non-pitch in that regard. Above, the wall is utter confusion with a smattering of bolts, dirty, discontinuous cracks, and lines that cross each other. Good luck figuring out where to go... One star (possibly two) for the first pitch and none for the second. |
15 Nov 2023
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| This two-pitch route is on the right side of Crystal Wall. The first pitch is okay bolted slab climbing, but it features a mid-pitch mantel above a slab landing that is off-putting (an overhead bolt would improve this). The second pitch is kind of silly in my opinion. You have to make a hard move to get to the first bolt and then aid (A0) off it to get to the second. Kind of a non-pitch in that regard. Above, the wall is utter confusion with a smattering of bolts, dirty, discontinuous cracks, and lines that cross each other. Good luck figuring out where to go... One star (possibly two) for the first pitch and none for the second. | ||||||
| Crystal Ridge (5c+) | This is the three-pitch route on the left side of Crystal Wall. The first pitch has mossed over, so I rapped in from above to avoid it. The second pitch is okay, but the first bolt is a bit high and it's kinda' runout. The position is nice, but it would be more pleasant with more bolts. The third pitch follows broken cracks up the gully and wall left of the arete. It's nothing to write home about. I'd say this route as described just qualifies as two-star... |
15 Nov 2023
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| This is the three-pitch route on the left side of Crystal Wall. The first pitch has mossed over, so I rapped in from above to avoid it. The second pitch is okay, but the first bolt is a bit high and it's kinda' runout. The position is nice, but it would be more pleasant with more bolts. The third pitch follows broken cracks up the gully and wall left of the arete. It's nothing to write home about. I'd say this route as described just qualifies as two-star... | ||||||
| Evaporation (6b+) | I think I climbed this a couple of decades ago, but I'm not 100%. Regardless, it was good to revisit this line, the best on Crystal Wall for sure. The first pitch features a burly crack to a techy slab with a heads-up (!) runout to the anchor. The second pitch is the money and is best characterized as off-vertical face climbing on weird, chunky slab features. It's hard and sustained and remains cruxy right near the top. It's really good if you like that sort of thing, but old-school grading at 11a. |
15 Nov 2023
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| I think I climbed this a couple of decades ago, but I'm not 100%.
Regardless, it was good to revisit this line, the best on Crystal Wall for sure. The first pitch features a burly crack to a techy slab with a heads-up (!) runout to the anchor. The second pitch is the money and is best characterized as off-vertical face climbing on weird, chunky slab features. It's hard and sustained and remains cruxy right near the top. It's really good if you like that sort of thing, but old-school grading at 11a. | ||||||
| Unknown (6c) | This is the steep bolted line right of Fissureman's Friend. The start is unfortunately dirty, which interferes with the main crux by the first bolt. Above this, the route is cleaner and the moves on the upper wall are very good. I'd give it three stars, but the start is a problem right now. If you started off The Kip ledge and skipped the first two bolts, it's probably a 3-star 10d. Bouldery... |
30 Oct 2023
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| This is the steep bolted line right of Fissureman's Friend. The start is unfortunately dirty, which interferes with the main crux by the first bolt. Above this, the route is cleaner and the moves on the upper wall are very good. I'd give it three stars, but the start is a problem right now. If you started off The Kip ledge and skipped the first two bolts, it's probably a 3-star 10d. Bouldery... | ||||||
| Edgar Allan Pro (6a) | Not as clean as the others, but pretty fun climbing. A combo of crack and face moves with an interesting crux bulge. Pro is tricky at times, but I'd still recommend it. |
30 Oct 2023
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| Not as clean as the others, but pretty fun climbing. A combo of crack and face moves with an interesting crux bulge. Pro is tricky at times, but I'd still recommend it. | ||||||
| Belays of Glory (5c+) | Contrived start past the bolts since the crack to the right is easier. Above, the crack is steep, burly and a bit tricky to protect. Didn't feel like a classic, but it was clean... |
30 Oct 2023
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| Contrived start past the bolts since the crack to the right is easier. Above, the crack is steep, burly and a bit tricky to protect. Didn't feel like a classic, but it was clean... | ||||||
| Mossy Tongue (5b+) | This could be a very nice route, but the runout to the first bolt is stupid. Not only would you hit the ledge if you fell, but you might tumble off the edge and drop to the forest below. The first few metres also seems to be where the crux is... Would get another star if a bolt was added. |
30 Oct 2023
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| This could be a very nice route, but the runout to the first bolt is stupid. Not only would you hit the ledge if you fell, but you might tumble off the edge and drop to the forest below. The first few metres also seems to be where the crux is... Would get another star if a bolt was added. |
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