crag
Beyond the Gondola
3.0
23
ASCENTS
83 %
OS RATE
20
ROUTES IN DB
23
ASCENTS
83 %
OS RATE
20
ROUTES IN DB
Name Style Route Comment Properties Date
Date
Fanny on Furlough (6b) Repeat. So nice I had to do it twice!
20 Jul 2023
Repeat. So nice I had to do it twice!
More Pimples than Dimples (5c+) Repeat. A thin start (the crux) leads to easier climbing above with more lovely pockets.
20 Jul 2023
Repeat. A thin start (the crux) leads to easier climbing above with more lovely pockets.
Quest for a Porthole (5c) Repeat. Tricky down low and then beautiful cruising on tiny pockets and scoops.
20 Jul 2023
Repeat. Tricky down low and then beautiful cruising on tiny pockets and scoops.
Snip'n Go (7a+) I find slab grades totally mystifying, but am suggesting a slight upgrade here since this line felt way harder than the two routes to the right. Not a ton of fun since the difficulty is compressed into the first two body lengths off the ground.
6 Jun 2023
I find slab grades totally mystifying, but am suggesting a slight upgrade here since this line felt way harder than the two routes to the right. Not a ton of fun since the difficulty is compressed into the first two body lengths off the ground.
War of Adhesion (6c) I found this slightly easier than Bolting for Britain, but I may have just nailed the intricate sequence, which climbed just left of the second bolt. Above that, the route got progressively easier.
6 Jun 2023
I found this slightly easier than Bolting for Britain, but I may have just nailed the intricate sequence, which climbed just left of the second bolt. Above that, the route got progressively easier.
Bolting for Britain (6c) A tough start to easier climbing and another cruxy section near the top. Good quality, but lacking the interesting scoop features found on many of the wall's other routes. Felt like a hard route on the Apron...
6 Jun 2023
A tough start to easier climbing and another cruxy section near the top. Good quality, but lacking the interesting scoop features found on many of the wall's other routes. Felt like a hard route on the Apron...
More Whinging than Whining (6c) A thin start is followed by sustained climbing trending to the right. Varied movement for a slab climb and very subtle. I thought this climb was very good.
5 Jun 2023
A thin start is followed by sustained climbing trending to the right. Varied movement for a slab climb and very subtle. I thought this climb was very good.
Dike-ally (6b) A thin start past the first couple of bolts leads to a seam with pockets. This allows for different movement when compared to the other face climbs here. The crack above is delightful and the finish onto the upper slab is tons of fun.
5 Jun 2023
A thin start past the first couple of bolts leads to a seam with pockets. This allows for different movement when compared to the other face climbs here. The crack above is delightful and the finish onto the upper slab is tons of fun.
Divotalis (6b+) Excellent slab climbing up the middle of the face. A number of thin sections, but the crux is in the upper half where route-finding is key. The stone on this crag is excellent - I love the tiny scoops in the slab, which seem common on this wall.
5 Jun 2023
Excellent slab climbing up the middle of the face. A number of thin sections, but the crux is in the upper half where route-finding is key. The stone on this crag is excellent - I love the tiny scoops in the slab, which seem common on this wall.
Fanny on Furlough (6b) Excellent slab climbing on the left side of the crag. A moderate lower half leads to cruxy climbing up high linking the small divots in the slab. Great stone!
5 Jun 2023
Excellent slab climbing on the left side of the crag. A moderate lower half leads to cruxy climbing up high linking the small divots in the slab. Great stone!
Gritstoning with Bolts (6b) Felt a bit harsh for the grade, but it was kinda' dirty when I climbed it. The route's not long, but it packs in a number of tricky cruxes between the slopey crack rests.
3 Jun 2023
Felt a bit harsh for the grade, but it was kinda' dirty when I climbed it. The route's not long, but it packs in a number of tricky cruxes between the slopey crack rests.
Less So (6a) Not a very good warm-up. The crux is brief and the gear-protected climbing is just fiddly and a bit dirty. Too bad it wasn't a proper sport climb. This might have made it work better as the crag's most moderate route.
3 Jun 2023
Not a very good warm-up. The crux is brief and the gear-protected climbing is just fiddly and a bit dirty. Too bad it wasn't a proper sport climb. This might have made it work better as the crag's most moderate route.
The Mousehole (6c) I pulled a muscle in my lower back doing the crux on this slick face. The move was tough and awkward and forced me into a bizarre position that my body did not appreciate. Once past this, the climbing is far more straightforward. Needless to say, it was not my favourite climb on the wall.
3 Jun 2023
I pulled a muscle in my lower back doing the crux on this slick face. The move was tough and awkward and forced me into a bizarre position that my body did not appreciate. Once past this, the climbing is far more straightforward. Needless to say, it was not my favourite climb on the wall.
Stinkerbell (6b+) A bit of a grungy start up the cracked face leads to a stance on a cedar stump. The crux lies above and is characterized by a barn-door layback. A small bulge above provides a second crux and the rock here is poor - I was breaking chunks off with my hands. Hard to give this route many stars...
3 Jun 2023
A bit of a grungy start up the cracked face leads to a stance on a cedar stump. The crux lies above and is characterized by a barn-door layback. A small bulge above provides a second crux and the rock here is poor - I was breaking chunks off with my hands. Hard to give this route many stars...
Rosy's Elegant Serration (6a+) Similar to the 10c on the left and the other reason to visit this crag. Excellent low-angle face climbing along a thin, pink-ish dyke leads to a chunky slab along the blunt arete up top. A really enjoyable climb - well bolted and fun climbing.
3 Jun 2023
Similar to the 10c on the left and the other reason to visit this crag. Excellent low-angle face climbing along a thin, pink-ish dyke leads to a chunky slab along the blunt arete up top. A really enjoyable climb - well bolted and fun climbing.
A Face with Dimples (6a+) One of the better routes at this crag, I thought. Low-angle slab climbing leads through a mid-pitch bay to excellent, chunky steep slab above. The rock on the upper portion of this pitch is excellent.
3 Jun 2023
One of the better routes at this crag, I thought. Low-angle slab climbing leads through a mid-pitch bay to excellent, chunky steep slab above. The rock on the upper portion of this pitch is excellent.
Dogs and Dikes (6c) A brutally thin start leads to easier divot climbing on the slab above. I haven't smeared hard like this in quite awhile. Took a bit of teeth-grinding to get through!
26 May 2023
A brutally thin start leads to easier divot climbing on the slab above. I haven't smeared hard like this in quite awhile. Took a bit of teeth-grinding to get through!
Angus McCoatup (6a+) Quite sustained for the grade. I was hoping for more slab divots, but they were few and far between. Compact stone in a nice setting - I really like it up here...
26 May 2023
Quite sustained for the grade. I was hoping for more slab divots, but they were few and far between. Compact stone in a nice setting - I really like it up here...
Robins Roost (5b+) Tricky at the start and then easier above. Unfortunately, the crack fills with debris during the winter so you'll have to mine it out to find spots for protection.
26 May 2023
Tricky at the start and then easier above. Unfortunately, the crack fills with debris during the winter so you'll have to mine it out to find spots for protection.
More Pimples than Dimples (5c+) A tricky slab start past the first couple of bolts leads to easier and easier terrain. The Buoux 2-finger pocket (for real!) on the upper slab is an outstanding feature.
2 Sep 2022
A tricky slab start past the first couple of bolts leads to easier and easier terrain. The Buoux 2-finger pocket (for real!) on the upper slab is an outstanding feature.