Vertical-Life
Shepherd Springs
23
ASCENTS
13 %
OS RATE
23
BOULDERS IN DB
23
ASCENTS
13 %
OS RATE
23
BOULDERS IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
| ||||||
| Mossback Thrills (6C+) | Area Classic! Still searching for a good name. This was all covered in a thick carpet of moss and cleaned up to be amazing stone that reminded me in some ways of Cadillac Thrills @ HP40...hence the name. Squat start with L-Hand pinching the low lip of the arete, R-hand on a good incut crimp, and L-Foot on the friable jug low under the roof. Core-up and slap L-hand higher up the arete and use compression and a variety of feet to climb the amazing runnel crack features with compression and body english. Low start might be V7-8 depending on beta and what breaks/stays on. |
2 Jan 2022
| ||||
| Area Classic! Still searching for a good name. This was all covered in a thick carpet of moss and cleaned up to be amazing stone that reminded me in some ways of Cadillac Thrills @ HP40...hence the name. Squat start with L-Hand pinching the low lip of the arete, R-hand on a good incut crimp, and L-Foot on the friable jug low under the roof. Core-up and slap L-hand higher up the arete and use compression and a variety of feet to climb the amazing runnel crack features with compression and body english. Low start might be V7-8 depending on beta and what breaks/stays on. | ||||||
| Zane's Pain (6A) | SDS on the far right arete (far side of LBMHBF) with a funky L-foot and r-leg flagged. Move up to a L-hand crimp and then throw up and right to a good pinch around the arete, then follow the lip up and left to top out/roll over. |
2 Jan 2022
| ||||
| SDS on the far right arete (far side of LBMHBF) with a funky L-foot and r-leg flagged. Move up to a L-hand crimp and then throw up and right to a good pinch around the arete, then follow the lip up and left to top out/roll over. | ||||||
| Loved By Many Hated by Few (6C) | Out for an evening session with Team Andrew. Such cool movement. The weak man's version of LBFHBM...hence the name. Classic movement. Overhanging power from sds to a slab mantle/roll over. |
2 Jan 2022
| ||||
| Out for an evening session with Team Andrew. Such cool movement. The weak man's version of LBFHBM...hence the name. Classic movement. Overhanging power from sds to a slab mantle/roll over. | ||||||
| Socially Awkward (7A) | First go today with dry holds. AC and I battled it out for the FA in the rain on my last days off. I oozed off the topout like a slug getting peeled off the wall and AC was able to come back the next week and fire it for the FA in proper conditions. Glad to knock this out on the way back to the car after such and awesome day. 5 Star 15 move sloper lip traverse out of a hole. Such a good line! 2nd asc. Thanks Team Andrew for moving the pads and the psyche! |
22 Mar 2021
| ||||
| First go today with dry holds. AC and I battled it out for the FA in the rain on my last days off. I oozed off the topout like a slug getting peeled off the wall and AC was able to come back the next week and fire it for the FA in proper conditions. Glad to knock this out on the way back to the car after such and awesome day. 5 Star 15 move sloper lip traverse out of a hole. Such a good line! 2nd asc. Thanks Team Andrew for moving the pads and the psyche! | ||||||
| Lipan Conjurings (7A+) | Thanks for Team Andrew for motivating and coming out to play in this rad boulder garden on a windy monday afternoon. AC found, cleaned and sussed all the beta on this boulder back in the early winter. Jojo put up a logical midway sds. This is the full line from the full arete...30+ moves in the spirit of the Dragon at HCR. Feels likes 12d/13a basically linking two V5's with a good shake in the middle. Such a sick line to FA. Need lots of pads and spotters - Thanks Boys! |
22 Mar 2021
| ||||
| Thanks for Team Andrew for motivating and coming out to play in this rad boulder garden on a windy monday afternoon. AC found, cleaned and sussed all the beta on this boulder back in the early winter. Jojo put up a logical midway sds. This is the full line from the full arete...30+ moves in the spirit of the Dragon at HCR. Feels likes 12d/13a basically linking two V5's with a good shake in the middle. Such a sick line to FA. Need lots of pads and spotters - Thanks Boys! | ||||||
| Cave Man (7B+) | Had to sit through a 2hr conference call on top of this boulder in 20degree weather on my way down TX just to have the opportunity to FA this classic. I'm leaning towards proper V7 but everyone else thinks this is harder. Super steep crack climbing to thug power, complete with toe hooks and some core control. Hueco Tanks Style |
28 Jan 2021
| ||||
| Had to sit through a 2hr conference call on top of this boulder in 20degree weather on my way down TX just to have the opportunity to FA this classic. I'm leaning towards proper V7 but everyone else thinks this is harder. Super steep crack climbing to thug power, complete with toe hooks and some core control. Hueco Tanks Style | ||||||
| Man Cave (High Start) (7A+) | Wild hueco style climbing. AC (and Zane) with the vision and pysche on this cave. This is the logical upper start off the highest jug in the crack and throwing to the lip. Took 3 people sussing beta for Zane to unlock the method and FA the high start. Being cold enough to wear a long sleeve makes a big difference. AC and I unlocked the rad and slightly painful fingerlock intro sequence. Full Low Start should clock in around V8...maybe V9. Not much in AR climbs like this. Great Find Boys!! |
26 Jan 2021
| ||||
| Wild hueco style climbing. AC (and Zane) with the vision and pysche on this cave. This is the logical upper start off the highest jug in the crack and throwing to the lip. Took 3 people sussing beta for Zane to unlock the method and FA the high start. Being cold enough to wear a long sleeve makes a big difference. AC and I unlocked the rad and slightly painful fingerlock intro sequence. Full Low Start should clock in around V8...maybe V9. Not much in AR climbs like this. Great Find Boys!! | ||||||
| Detonator (Stand) (7B+) | AC and I stumbled upon this rad powerhouse boulder a couple of seasons ago and it's pretty much shut everyone down just trying the stand (minus TM 0- but he didn't top out). AC and I made a late afternoon trip out in a fog cloud and finally unlocked the perfect taping, grip, foot and finger lock giant deadpoint/lockoff to the L-Hand Mono pocket. Felt impossible for so long and then it just went. Now to struggle for eons on the sds - guessing proper V10. Many many failed attempts. |
29 Nov 2020
| ||||
| AC and I stumbled upon this rad powerhouse boulder a couple of seasons ago and it's pretty much shut everyone down just trying the stand (minus TM 0- but he didn't top out). AC and I made a late afternoon trip out in a fog cloud and finally unlocked the perfect taping, grip, foot and finger lock giant deadpoint/lockoff to the L-Hand Mono pocket. Felt impossible for so long and then it just went. Now to struggle for eons on the sds - guessing proper V10. Many many failed attempts. | ||||||
| PRIMUS (6C+) | Around the right side of the Fistcuffs Project. (Rightside of arete from JWARCD) Stand start off crimps and move slightly right and straight up into techy/balancy undercling moves. Do not keep traversing right to the jug on the warmup- head straight up! Techy face climbing with thin crimps at top. HIGHBALL! |
25 Jan 2020
| ||||
| Around the right side of the Fistcuffs Project. (Rightside of arete from JWARCD) Stand start off crimps and move slightly right and straight up into techy/balancy undercling moves. Do not keep traversing right to the jug on the warmup- head straight up! Techy face climbing with thin crimps at top. HIGHBALL! | ||||||
| Lacquer Head (5B) | Left side of the big golden face from HWTD. Sit start on a jug and move left up the sloped hillside to crimps and an easy jug plate finish. Walk off ramp to the left to the tight gulley. |
25 Jan 2020
| ||||
| Left side of the big golden face from HWTD. Sit start on a jug and move left up the sloped hillside to crimps and an easy jug plate finish. Walk off ramp to the left to the tight gulley. | ||||||
| Highball with the Devil (6C) | Highball arete north uphill from the creek boulders. Starts on a good right hand jug on an arete with a tree in your back. Big move or bump move through gastons to a high foot and reach around a corner block, then highball finish up the arete. |
25 Jan 2020
| ||||
| Highball arete north uphill from the creek boulders. Starts on a good right hand jug on an arete with a tree in your back. Big move or bump move through gastons to a high foot and reach around a corner block, then highball finish up the arete. | ||||||
| Jerry Was a Race Car Driver (6C) | Drove so god dammned fast, never did win a checkered flag but he never did come in last...HIGHBALL! Stand start crossed hands on a pocket and move left and up to a high mantle/slab finish. Squat start and full Sit start from the arete will be double digits. |
25 Jan 2020
| ||||
| Drove so god dammned fast, never did win a checkered flag but he never did come in last...HIGHBALL! Stand start crossed hands on a pocket and move left and up to a high mantle/slab finish. Squat start and full Sit start from the arete will be double digits. | ||||||
| Tippi Toes (5C) | Big ole mossy green carpet ride. Reach! |
25 Jan 2020
| ||||
| Big ole mossy green carpet ride. Reach! | ||||||
| Tommy the Cat (5C) | Really good fun little boulder. Do the ending dynamic will put a smile on your face. |
4 Mar 2019
| ||||
| Really good fun little boulder. Do the ending dynamic will put a smile on your face. | ||||||
| Over the Falls (5C) | Opposite side of the creek from SHWB. Right side of the sds, L-hand to golfball and go right. Watch out for the mini water fall in the LZ. |
4 Mar 2019
| ||||
| Opposite side of the creek from SHWB. Right side of the sds, L-hand to golfball and go right. Watch out for the mini water fall in the LZ. | ||||||
| Dirty Drowning Man (6A) | Scary topout. Griff put a lot of work into cleaning this on a rope after we all sent. Might drop a notch in the spicy factor with real rock for the topout instead of mud and leave. Pretty face with all the chalk and moss. |
4 Mar 2019
| ||||
| Scary topout. Griff put a lot of work into cleaning this on a rope after we all sent. Might drop a notch in the spicy factor with real rock for the topout instead of mud and leave. Pretty face with all the chalk and moss. | ||||||
| Shake Hands With Beef (6B) | Really proud arete climbing over a babbling brook. Committing up there. Really aesthetic |
4 Mar 2019
| ||||
| Really proud arete climbing over a babbling brook. Committing up there. Really aesthetic | ||||||
| Cosmic Monster Traverse (6A+) |
4 Mar 2019
| |||||
| Cosmic Monster (6A) | Tall overhanging arete with a little heady landing |
4 Mar 2019
| ||||
| Tall overhanging arete with a little heady landing | ||||||
| Down in a Hole (5A) | Name says it all. Good short and steep warm up. Easy to pad. |
4 Mar 2019
| ||||
| Name says it all. Good short and steep warm up. Easy to pad. |