Mad River Gorge
2.6
120
ASCENTS
1 %
OS RATE
49
BOULDERS IN DB
120
ASCENTS
1 %
OS RATE
49
BOULDERS IN DB
Statistics
GRADES
ASCENTS PER MONTH
DESCRIPTION
Formerly known as Springfield Gorge this hard and solid for the most part Dolomite Limestone with cliffs ranging from twenty to fifty feet in height and many boulders has been climbed since the seventies including by nineties sport climbing legend and Metolious product designer Jim Karn that grew up in the region and developed a few routes here including an 8a. Latest guidebook 2020 https://www.lulu.com/shop/katie-johnstone-and-steven-zuraski-and-ohio-climbers-coalition-and-j-brandau-moments/mad-river-gorge-climbing-guidebook/paperback/product-8jmg22.html Please do not climb a route If you see red tape on the first bolt. If you find a questionable bolt, please mark the first bolt of the route (using tape, a stick through the bolt, etc.) and email the MRG Climbing Committee at: [email protected] to let them know. There are 304 open climbs here so far with about a third of the crag not accessed yet but that access is being worked on. Natural anchor building and acces from above is not allowed, please only use the installed anchors. Anchors are stainless rings that are only for lowering through and connecting your own anchor gear for toproping, to preseve the rings. First bolts seem to be about 15 feet high, clipsticks and helmets are the local custom.

ACCESS
Free paved parking lot at 2710 Dayton Springfield Rd, Springfield, OH 45506. It's a municipal nature preserve with developed climbing areas and access trails open during daylight hours.