Vertical-Life
Champagne Sector
14
ASCENTS
14 %
OS RATE
9
BOULDERS IN DB
14
ASCENTS
14 %
OS RATE
9
BOULDERS IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
| ||||||
| Mannie Fresh (7B+) |
13 Aug 2023
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| Scorpion Slab (7A+) |
13 Aug 2023
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| Scorpion Slab (7A+) | Awesome route! Highball, tecchy slab. |
13 Aug 2023
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| Awesome route! Highball, tecchy slab. | ||||||
| Bob Saget (6C+) | Cool mantle |
13 Aug 2023
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| Cool mantle | ||||||
| Livin' Large (8C+) | Mega psyched! This line, which is over 8m high, was called the Real Big Project at the time. It was very intimidating to imagine the climbers who tried this in the past fell from the same height as a balcony on the third floor. The first half consisted of compression moves with friction slopers, and the second half was a mental battle(V11-ish) that required delicate footwork. It was only possible to try in perfect conditions in the early morning (~9:00), evening (17:00~), or a cloudy day. However, the approach takes 45 minutes, so early in the morning there weren't enough time to warm up. In the evening there's only a short time after the rock cool down untill the sunset, so a cloudy day is the best. Due to friction issues, the damage to the finger skin was quite severe. If I tried, I had to rest for 2-3 days. So this cloudy day near the end of the tour was my last chance. The conditions were great on this day and every move worked perfectly on the second try. I just focused on each hold in front of me, and didn't feel any fear of heights. It would have been really bad if I missed the last move. I'm glad I climbed, but more than that I'm glad I didn't fall. |
22 Jul 2023
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| Mega psyched!
This line, which is over 8m high, was called the Real Big Project at the time. It was very intimidating to imagine the climbers who tried this in the past fell from the same height as a balcony on the third floor.
The first half consisted of compression moves with friction slopers, and the second half was a mental battle(V11-ish) that required delicate footwork. It was only possible to try in perfect conditions in the early morning (~9:00), evening (17:00~), or a cloudy day.
However, the approach takes 45 minutes, so early in the morning there weren't enough time to warm up. In the evening there's only a short time after the rock cool down untill the sunset, so a cloudy day is the best. Due to friction issues, the damage to the finger skin was quite severe. If I tried, I had to rest for 2-3 days. So this cloudy day near the end of the tour was my last chance.
The conditions were great on this day and every move worked perfectly on the second try. I just focused on each hold in front of me, and didn't feel any fear of heights. It would have been really bad if I missed the last move. I'm glad I climbed, but more than that I'm glad I didn't fall. | ||||||
| Spud Webb (7B+) |
18 Jul 2018
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| Livin' Large (8C) | Oh man, so happy to finish this thing! Last day, last go of the trip, split my tip on the send.. Can't really get much closer than that! Thanks to everyone for helping get up this beast! Yet another king line from Nalle. 2nd ascent. So proud of this one!! |
7 Jul 2015
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| Oh man, so happy to finish this thing! Last day, last go of the trip, split my tip on the send.. Can't really get much closer than that! Thanks to everyone for helping get up this beast! Yet another king line from Nalle. 2nd ascent. So proud of this one!! | ||||||
| Pity the fool (4A) |
20 Jul 2012
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| Compadre (6A) |
20 Jul 2012
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| Arms in action (7A) |
20 Jul 2012
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| Spud Webb (7B+) | the last problem i finished in rocklands. time to go home. bad ass line with tech moves, power, fun mantle, and a highball slab topout. I was up there for some time. |
17 Aug 2009
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| the last problem i finished in rocklands. time to go home. bad ass line with tech moves, power, fun mantle, and a highball slab topout. I was up there for some time. | ||||||
| Mrs. Balls (8A+) |
14 Aug 2009
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| Livin' Large (8C) | About 12 days of work. By far the hardest thing I've climbed so far. Tall, proud, perfect! |
5 Aug 2009
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| About 12 days of work. By far the hardest thing I've climbed so far. Tall, proud, perfect! | ||||||
| Spud Webb (7B+) |
5 Aug 2009
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