Vertical-Life
Short side, Quarry
18
ASCENTS
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OS RATE
17
BOULDERS IN DB
18
ASCENTS
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OS RATE
17
BOULDERS IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Zentropa (7C) | This is the SDS Red Arete eliminate project still up for grabs(no finger jug). I think the moves are actually more interesting, and powerful than R.A. I think lower end V9. Totally stoked with today's sendage. Must have been the afterglow of the single malts I was downing last night. |
7 Jul 2012
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| This is the SDS Red Arete eliminate project still up for grabs(no finger jug). I think the moves are actually more interesting, and powerful than R.A. I think lower end V9. Totally stoked with today's sendage. Must have been the afterglow of the single malts I was downing last night. | ||||||
| Yakuza (7C) | 2nd ascent? Real power endurance needed here, came so close to flying into Colosseum corner, you've got to really want it. Nice one Jason, love the line. Solid at V9, me thinks. |
7 Jul 2012
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| 2nd ascent? Real power endurance needed here, came so close to flying into Colosseum corner, you've got to really want it. Nice one Jason, love the line. Solid at V9, me thinks. | ||||||
| Seven Samurai Master (7C+) | Two seasons it took me just to add six tip spitting moves to the established seven samurai V7. Sit start, face only, no cracks. Suits me. Felt V9/V10 range. My Gradedar put it at V 9.76, so with a bit of Swedish rounding I'll put my fingers on the chopping block and say V10. Let the prodigy youth make the judgement. Top quality line in the eliminate world. Very happy |
24 Jun 2012
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| Two seasons it took me just to add six tip spitting moves to the established seven samurai V7. Sit start, face only, no cracks. Suits me. Felt V9/V10 range. My Gradedar put it at V 9.76, so with a bit of Swedish rounding I'll put my fingers on the chopping block and say V10. Let the prodigy youth make the judgement. Top quality line in the eliminate world. Very happy | ||||||
| Red Samurai (7B+) | ?3rd ascent, finally after much mucking around. Interesting line, good moves |
17 Jun 2012
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| ?3rd ascent, finally after much mucking around. Interesting line, good moves | ||||||
| Red arete to Slip on silp off (7A) | ?2nd horizontal ascent. Actually quite fun and bolshy - big barn door. |
17 Jun 2012
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| ?2nd horizontal ascent. Actually quite fun and bolshy - big barn door. | ||||||
| Panelbeater (7B+) | Repeat, down graded. |
9 Jun 2012
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| Repeat, down graded. | ||||||
| Red Arete SDS (7B+) | Repeat |
6 May 2012
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| Repeat | ||||||
| Slip on slip off (Sit Start) (7A) | 2nd ascent I think. Does make the problem longer, but not a whole grade harder. I would say the stand is a solid V5 and the sit a manly V6. |
24 Dec 2011
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| 2nd ascent I think. Does make the problem longer, but not a whole grade harder. I would say the stand is a solid V5 and the sit a manly V6. | ||||||
| Phoebe writing her memoirs (6C+) | Eliminate arete climb between Night Shift and Bar Bodega. No left or right cracks. Sit start. Top it out all the way with palm downs and underclings and good smearing action. Highball. |
28 Aug 2011
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| Eliminate arete climb between Night Shift and Bar Bodega. No left or right cracks. Sit start. Top it out all the way with palm downs and underclings and good smearing action. Highball. | ||||||
| Naked Lunch (7A) | Another eliminate situated between Short Crack and Shorter Crack. Sit start and pull onto thin face only, no left crack or right hand side. The crux is getting your gluteus maximus off the ground. finish manteling the ledge. |
6 Aug 2011
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| Another eliminate situated between Short Crack and Shorter Crack. Sit start and pull onto thin face only, no left crack or right hand side. The crux is getting your gluteus maximus off the ground. finish manteling the ledge. | ||||||
| Sad Chicken (7A) | Another eliminate arete with the usual rules of no left and right cracks. Sit start with pocket and right crimp, get into an old school rock over and undercling move, reach high left to poor sloper, use shallow two finger crimp out right for balance and dead point to the ledge and match. Technical but satisfying. |
31 Jul 2011
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| Another eliminate arete with the usual rules of no left and right cracks. Sit start with pocket and right crimp, get into an old school rock over and undercling move, reach high left to poor sloper, use shallow two finger crimp out right for balance and dead point to the ledge and match. Technical but satisfying. | ||||||
| Seven Samurai (7B) | Eliminate face problem between red arete and the start of Coliseum. You'll see a blank vertical black face. Stand start, no left or right cracks. Crimpy face climbing with a committing throw to good rail with Piton. Continue up veering right to massive two handed jug - finish here matching then step right to climb down. Nice movement. Did this one a while a go and I was hoping to do the sit as a complete problem however due to it being bloody hard I'm happy to come away with this one. Sit project will prob be V10ish. Have a go. |
17 Jul 2011
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| Eliminate face problem between red arete and the start of Coliseum. You'll see a blank vertical black face. Stand start, no left or right cracks. Crimpy face climbing with a committing throw to good rail with Piton. Continue up veering right to massive two handed jug - finish here matching then step right to climb down. Nice movement. Did this one a while a go and I was hoping to do the sit as a complete problem however due to it being bloody hard I'm happy to come away with this one. Sit project will prob be V10ish. Have a go. | ||||||
| Psychopathic Lawn Sprinklers (Sit Start) (7B+) | Sit start to Psychopathic Lawn Sprinklers. A grade harder I think but not a hard 8. |
30 May 2011
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| Sit start to Psychopathic Lawn Sprinklers. A grade harder I think but not a hard 8. | ||||||
| Panelbeater (7C) | Another great pure eliminate at the hub of hard Auckland bouldering. Stand start at base of arete (right of Red Arete) no left or rights cracks/sides. Pull on and grimace your way through tiny 2 and 3 finger crimps til you get to the crux, hold nothing and crank to positive holds, top out arete (quite high and positive). Love it, short side rocks! |
30 May 2011
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| Another great pure eliminate at the hub of hard Auckland bouldering. Stand start at base of arete (right of Red Arete) no left or rights cracks/sides. Pull on and grimace your way through tiny 2 and 3 finger crimps til you get to the crux, hold nothing and crank to positive holds, top out arete (quite high and positive). Love it, short side rocks! | ||||||
| Psychopathic Lawn Sprinklers (7B) | Ok, anyone keen for mono crimp action this is the one. Super contrived eliminate right of secret crack. Face only, stand start. No left side arete, no right hand crack. Get out a magnifying glass to find the holds and crank it out to the obvious ledge (matching). If anyone is bored and are thinking strongly about mono crimping this one is for you. No knee bar on the left side arete either. Sit start yet to come, will be harder. |
8 May 2011
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| Ok, anyone keen for mono crimp action this is the one. Super contrived eliminate right of secret crack. Face only, stand start. No left side arete, no right hand crack. Get out a magnifying glass to find the holds and crank it out to the obvious ledge (matching). If anyone is bored and are thinking strongly about mono crimping this one is for you. No knee bar on the left side arete either. Sit start yet to come, will be harder. | ||||||
| The Eddy Folke arete (6C+) | Eddy showed me this one in the late 90s. Sit start elminate arete thing, quite nice for the short side |
13 Mar 2011
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| Eddy showed me this one in the late 90s. Sit start elminate arete thing, quite nice for the short side | ||||||
| The Red Arete (sit start) (7B+) | Pretty solid, reckon 8 easy. Hard ass micro pressing, took four sessions to get. If you want to have a go its the arete left of Colleseum |
13 Mar 2011
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| Pretty solid, reckon 8 easy. Hard ass micro pressing, took four sessions to get. If you want to have a go its the arete left of Colleseum | ||||||
| the red arete, stand start (7A) | technical finger power |
14 Dec 2010
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| technical finger power |