Vertical-Life
Coffs Harbour
1
ASCENTS
0 %
OS RATE
1
BOULDERS IN DB
1
ASCENTS
0 %
OS RATE
1
BOULDERS IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Ocean's Razor (7A) | From what I've gathered the FAionist did not use a big flake out right. He climbs the line solely following a small seam in the wall, which results in awkward bottom moves because of a weird layback position. However to me the line seems to be a straight-up rather than a slight diagonal. And even if it is a diagonal the big flake out right is basically in your face so there is no reason not to use it, it's not too far out of any of those lines. I climbed it standstarting with the flake and left hand side pinch. I would say this way it's 7A/V6 at most, maybe a bit harder if you're small. Linking into the flake from the intended sitstart position is very easy so it doesnt change anything. Now if you cannot use the flake (in which case I would say its an eliminate line) then its a bit trickier to navigate the sitstart and it seems likely that you are forced to use the "razor"-crimp and left hand hole to reach the top crux holds. Apart from this the sequence is basically the same. I'd guess if you insisted on the eliminate version without the flake it might be harder than V6 but I'd be a bit surprised if it would be any harder than french 7B. Regardless of all of this: stellar line, very appealing since the block is the only one around. Had a great time playing on this one. Big props to Travis for sharing. :) |
8 Nov 2019
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| From what I've gathered the FAionist did not use a big flake out right. He climbs the line solely following a small seam in the wall, which results in awkward bottom moves because of a weird layback position. However to me the line seems to be a straight-up rather than a slight diagonal. And even if it is a diagonal the big flake out right is basically in your face so there is no reason not to use it, it's not too far out of any of those lines. I climbed it standstarting with the flake and left hand side pinch. I would say this way it's 7A/V6 at most, maybe a bit harder if you're small. Linking into the flake from the intended sitstart position is very easy so it doesnt change anything. Now if you cannot use the flake (in which case I would say its an eliminate line) then its a bit trickier to navigate the sitstart and it seems likely that you are forced to use the "razor"-crimp and left hand hole to reach the top crux holds. Apart from this the sequence is basically the same. I'd guess if you insisted on the eliminate version without the flake it might be harder than V6 but I'd be a bit surprised if it would be any harder than french 7B. Regardless of all of this: stellar line, very appealing since the block is the only one around. Had a great time playing on this one. Big props to Travis for sharing. :) |