Lukasz Dudek has done another two 9a's, Der Lange Atem in Höllental and Sid Lives in Arco. "Short bouldery route. Looks ugly but it's a good piece of rock with some bad pinches and tiny crimps, 2 days." In total the Pole has now done 18 routes graded 9a, 31 8c+ and 61 8c's, so the base is ready for a 9a+ cherry on the cake.

Edu Marin is back home in Spain after driving back from Flatanger for almost four days, where he among others did Valhalla 9a/+. They stopped in Rodellar where Edu did Nilbru 9a in four sessions. (c) Esteban Lahoz Edu Marin is one of the best multi discipline climbers in the world, from winning the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2006 to do world class big wall ascents.

Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's La cène du roi lézard 9a+ in Jansegg. Watching Cedric go more to the left, during his first sessions out of ten, avoiding the original elimination dyno, Pirmin thought Cedric solution was more logical and had already down graded it to 9a+ which Cedric confirms. Cedric, who previously have done 22 routes 9a and 9a+, has never worked so long for a 9 graded route. He also tried Pirmin's La barrière 9b, which is the same route but instead of the 8b start it begins with a 9a variation, but he could not do all moves. (c) Adeline Helg

Rocco Micheletto, who works full time belaying kids in an adventure park, has done his first 9a, Thunder Ribes in Arco. (c) Marco Ceramella "Climbing a 9a has been a dream for a while, I got close to sending one in my home crag (Covolo) a couple of years back, then I broke my meniscus and ACL on the key heel hook of this route and therefore I could not send it or continue to try it. Since the beginning of 2018 I started climbing in Arco with my friends even though it is almost 2 hours away from where I live. In the spring I climbed a couple of routes and immediately started working Thunder Ribes. In May I fell on the final slab of the route. I started a training circles for the summer to get ready and luckily I got the send it.

The Top-6 male final will be live-streamed today. Presentation of the finalists: Keita Dohi, Sam Avezou, Shuta Tanaka, Peter Ivanov, Filip Schenk and Yufei Pan. (c) Eddie Fowke 09.00 Speed GMT-3 Euro 14.00 11.45 Boulder 15.50 Lead

In the very first Speed race, the favorite Sam Avezou made a big slip and finished second at around 8.23. Later Shuta Tanaka fell and Peter Ivanov also made a slip so Sam was the fastest "lucky looser". In the semi Sam once again faced Pan Yufei and beat him with some split seconds. Later Pan beat Filip Schenk in the small final. In the final, Sam had a clean race and made a personal best with 6.96 seconds against Keita Dohi 7.00. Complete results It should be noted that only Tomoa Narasaki and Mickel Mamew, among the non-Speed specialists, have had a faster time at 6.70 respectively 6.77.

In the end Keita Dohi was rather superior, performing at the highest standard in all three disciplines. Interestingly, Lead once again turned into a Speed challenge. As two out of the first three topped out, the remaining had to sprint but all fell in the last four moves having used just around three minutes. 1. Keita Dohi JPN 2 - 1 - 3 = 6 2. Shuta Tanaka JPN 6 - 3 - 1 = 18 3. Sam Avezou FRA 1 - 5 - 6 = 30 4. Filip Schenk ITA 4 - 2 - 4 = 32 5. Yufei Pan CHN 3 - 6 - 2 = 32 6. Peter Ivanov BUL 5 - 4 - 5 = 100 Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke