La Force 8C (9a or 8Cc+ Trav) by Coudert Camille
Coudert Camille, who previoulsy has done five 8B's, has done the second repeat of Alban Levier's La Force 8C (9a or 8Cc+) in Fontainebleau which has a harder exit then the more frequently done Quoi de neuf 8C. "The boulder is 7C+/8A and 8B to 7C finish, with a good rest between 8A and 8B. it is about 35 moves long so it is hard to give the whole line a boulder grade. A 9a route grade has also been suggested but in comparison to existing trav grades 8C+ would fit. I started working on La Force seriously a month ago. I needed five sessions to take it down. It is my biggest achievement so far in a style I'm not used to work on (a long effort being a boulderer). I think this problem cannot be considered as a route or a boulder. It is something in between that's why I think the 8C+ traverse grading is more appropriate." (8a agrees with Camille but instead we call such long climbs without a rope, a boulder route and adding 8Cc+, in order to separate from route or boulder grades).

Two 8B's by Rei Kawamata (15)
Rei kawamata, who was #5 in the Moscow Bouldering World Cup, has had a great trip to Ena where he did two hard 8B's, Anomally and Ankokumaru. "It is very nice. There where some 8B+ that seemed possible. I want to return in the end of the year." Next up for the 15 year old is the Boulder World Cup in Vail in June and the the Youth World Championship in Arco in the end of August.

Europe and USA dominate girls U-19
For the first time at the Youth World Championships in Arco, athletes from Europe and the United States dominated a competition, doing so in the U-19 girls' Bouโ€ฆ
Korea takes gold and silver in boys U-19
Korea claimed gold and silver in the U-19 Youth World Championships Boulder event in Arco, with Beomjin Park taking gold and Chanjin Jung earning silver. The laโ€ฆ
Pure Dreaming 9a by Davide Picco
Davide Picco has done his third 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco in eight sessions. "Pure dreaming is a rather new line, bolted by Alfredo Webber and freed by Adam Ondra last year. I started trying it two months ago during weekends. The route is a masterpiece of endurance, after 20 meters or so of athletic movements on a steep wall you get to two small crimps where you need to rest and recover for the last section, the hardest one. I guess the style suits me very well even though I didn't expect to redpoint the line this fast. I'm super happy."

La Planta de Shiva 9b by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done his second 9b, La Planta de Shiva in Lillanueva del Rosario. In total, the american has now done 42 routes 9a to 9b and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. "Fought with every ounce in my body... a feeling I will never forget! Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell. So freaking excited about this send!" More info on his Insta (c) Javi Pec

8c+ by Moritz Welt (17) in just two sessions
Moritz Welt had done Markus Bock's Behind the blackest Tears 8c+ in Frankenjura in two sessions. In the Combined ranking, the 17 year old is #2. (c) Lars Decker "The route was pretty much my style with a 7c lower part and just one hard boulder in the end bouldery on small holds, typical Frankenjura style."

Garnbret takes fourth straight win in 2019
Janja Garnbret topped all four boulders in the final winning her four straight WC win in 2019. Last year she only did three WC events, winning the last two after being runner up in her first. #2 was Akiyo Noguchi, actually for the third time this season. 15 year old Ai Mori was #3 in her first Boulder WC Final. Miho Nonaka, who won overall last year, who has had a shoulder injury did her first WC cup this season and was #4. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Janja Garnbret 44 SLO 2. Akiyo Noguchi 34 (4) JPN 3. Ai Mori 34 (11) JPN 4. Miho Nonaka 24 (4) JPN 5. Jessica Pilz 24 (6) AUT 6. Julia Chanouride 2 FRA Complete results

Narasaki wins and Japan keeps dominating
Tomoa Narasaki, who has been runner up in the two WC he has entered this season, won in Wujiang before WCH Kai Harada. Jakob Schubert got his first medal in 2019 beating Keita Dohi on countback. 1. Tomoa Narasaki 34 (7,8) JPN (c) Eddie Fowke - IFSC 2. Kai Harada 34 (7,13) JPN 3. Jakob Schubert 14 (2,9) AUT 4. Keita Dohi (2,9) JPN 5. Kokoro Fujii (3,18) JPN 6. Jan Hojer (9,11) GER Complete results The next stage is in Munich in two weeks and interesting is that Tomoa is not going meaning he is not giving the Boulder WC priority, as he did previously skip Moscow. The same goes for all the five Japaneses who were Top-7 in Wujiang.