Here is the result from the Japan Combined this weekend where the Top-5 qualified to the World Championship in Tokyo. The biggest sensation was that Futaba Ito, worst result in Boulder WC 2019 is #9, did not make it as she was #6. ClimbersJP 1. Miho Nonaka 7 - Tomoa Narasaki 6 2. Akiyo Noguchi 12 - Kai Harada 12 3. Ai Mori (15) 12 - Kokoro Fujii 36 4. Natsuki Tanii (15) 72 - Keita Dohi 40 5. Nanako Kura 128 - Yushiyuki Ogata 22

Janja Garnbret won The Rock Ljubljana and interestingly, Garnbret had to do the last boulder first try as otherwise, the winner of the Euro 5 000 had been Vita Lukan. More info. Among the male, Alexey Rubtsov got the victory but very sadly he reported on his Insta that he tore the tendon of the long biceps head. Most probably this mean he will not be able to compete in the WCH in Tokyo. In order to make it to the Top-20 qualification event in Toulouse, he needs to be fully recovered for the last two event in China and Japan in October.

Here are some old training articles that could motivate you to keep pushing. Patxi Usobiaga Zlagboard training Running can be contra productive Steve McClure training Training 40+ Technical endurance advices Dyno tips Recruitment finger training

Based on some 1 500 unique votes, "Best climbing rope 2019?", we can see very small changes in comparison to the 2016 results, shown in brackets. 19 % Sterling (21) 18 % Beal (19) 17 % Mammut (18) 15 % Petzl (12) 14 % Edelrid (13) 10 % Tendon (12) 06 % Other (5)

Cathy Wagner, who did her first 8a in 1994, has done her 8a+ #155, Da Lineking in Rodellar. "Sooo happy! Fell at the last move on my first go 2 weeks ago totally pumped and today, despite the wobbly warm-up, I felt steady. IMO, the right knee-bar in the middle of the 3rd part of Maskoking makes the route easier, so I'd say a soft 8a+." The 53 year old teacher did her first 8b in 2001 and yesterday she did her 17. Interesting is that she has never started off a year as good as in 2019! If Cathy would have taken part in the ranking game, she would have been #2 in the Age & Gender ranking game, after Adam Ondra.

Matt Fultz has done the third ascent of Peter Würth's Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 in Magic Wood, video. First you climb the boulder roof and then you clip in finishing with four bolts in order to climb and stand at the top of the gigantic bloc. "Soft 8C? Or 9a? Either way, might be Earth’s best rock climb." In the Combined ranking game, Matt is #5 and actually with just one 8c+ route he will be #2. (c) Nevin Rajen