Marco Zanone has done his second 9a, Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Céüse, meaning he did the unchipped variant. "Wow. A real struggle for me. Can't believe I completed my second 9A in one of the best crag in the world. World-class, a route I'll never forget." Interesting is tha Marco had previous years done a maximum of two 8c+' and this year he has already done five. In the 8a ranking game, he is #11.

The route setters did over cook the female semi final boulders, although all four were topped, as three zones were good enough to make the final. In the end, Janja Garnbret with three tops and Akiyo Nuguchi with two, starting last, were ahead of the others with a big margin. The only other two tops were made on a slab and otherwise we only saw four girls getting close to top one boulder. Complete results 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 34 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 24 (c) Vladek Zumr 3. Nanako Kura JPN 12 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 12 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 3 6. Shauna Coxsey GBR 3

Based on almost 1 000 unique votes, Adam Ondra is favorite to win Combined in Tokyo. The Bouldering qualification starts tomorrow. 50 % Adam Ondra 28 % Tomoa Narasaki 13 % Jakob Schubert 05 % Alex Megox 03 % Others 01 % Kokoro Fujii

Adam Ondra was the only one to get five tops in the qualification and he did it in only six tries. In the second group, Japan set a new domination record by getting all the Top-6 positions. No big surprises as the result followed the starting order suggesting that the conditions deteriorated with more chalk and higher temperature. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr From the Combined perspective, the Mawem brothers did really well. Mickael was #23 and Bassa, the #1 in the Speed WC, was #67 by doing one zone in three tries. Also QiXin Zhong was #67 by getting one Top and two zones in the other group. If any of them will win Speed, they have chances to qualify to the Combined Top-20 event and, if so, any of them will get the Olympic ticket.

Jaka Šprah has done his first 9a, Water world in Osp/Misja Pec. "Water world is an amazing 55m long line in the big cave of Osp opened by Klemen Bečan five years ago. I first tried it last September and did it with one hang after about 10-15 tries, but it eventually took me 46 tries to piece the whole thing together. This July we took a long trip to Rodellar and it was a great preparation for Water world with a similar style of climbing. Something that helped me a lot was visualizing the route every evening. It enabled me to come back to it after about five months and feel almost like I was on it yesterday. I did it with two different shoes because Adam Ondra does it that way and I want to be sponsored by both Scarpa and La Sportiva."

Janja Garnbret onsighted all five problems and also Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler, Nanako Kura and Chaehyon Seo (15), in her very first international Bouldering comp, got five tops. In total, four from both Japan and Slovenia to the semi and Switzerland had three that made it through. The big surprise was that the best female from Austria was Jessica Pilz as #33. Last year she was #4 in Bouldering and #3 in Combined. Noteworthy is that the fifth and last Slovenian was #21 and that Anouck Jaubert, the Speed specialist, got her best ever bouldering result being #37. It should also be mentioned that 25 % of the 89 female ended up with no Top and no Zone. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

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