Jane Vincourkova, who did her first 8A two weeks ago, has advanced one step further having done Rustam SD 8A+ in Moravský kras, after six days of projecting. "When my boyfriend showed me this problem I totally fell in love with it even it was totally above my limits. Once we went to Moravian Karst, everything I wanted to try was wet so we decided to visit it. As there was still harder topout version for my BF. Surprisingly I did the first two moves, which is the crux, on my flash go. So I decided to invest my time into it. About the Jump in my performance, I started to climb this February after Two years pause, so I think I am just finding right now where my limits and strengths are."

Canadian Climbing News reports that the Japanese climbing federation has filed suit with the Court of Arbitration in regards IFSC changing the selection for Tokyo qualification without explanation. "Snippets of information about Team Japan had been emerging all week, with the website 8a.nu reporting the Harada and Nonaka news several days ago. Harada confirmed to CCN on Tuesday that he had indeed been chosen for Tokyo 2020, while Nonaka said she still had not heard from the Japanese federation. At that time, representatives from the JMSCA did not return messages seeking clarification." Full story in Japanese.

Theo Blass has done his first 8b, Bertane at Saint Guilhem le Desert after 5-6 tries during two days. Three months ago he sent another 8b on top rope. Previously a hand full 9-year-old's including Brooke Raboutou have done a 8b. His father Vlad, who did an 8c in 2017, gives us the nice and impressive story. "When he was about 7 he started climbing more regularly - about 1-2 times per week on rock and 1-2 times indoors. He had a good progression in the last year, jumping from 6b to 8b in about 15 months. He only started leading about 6 months ago and is still scared to lead some times. His training is mainly indoor bouldering (at the moment about twice per week but this changes all the time - he boulders when he feels like it - some weeks he could do 5 sessions per week and then not boulder for entire weeks ) - no proper training yet as he is too young. Also he loves other sports (running, skiing, judo, mountain biking). "

Matteo Menardi, who did his first 9a five years ago at age 15, has done his seventh 9a, Water World in Osp/Misja Pec. "The difficult part is long more or less 30 moves, then good rests and the unique Osp cave style. Definitely a 55 metres benchmark for this crag." What about going for a 9a+? I have a lot of ideas, trying routes in the Arco area is one of them. I would also like to travel more. Margalef, Ceuse and Flatanger are the first areas that come to my mind.

This week, IFSC did send out personal invitations to 20 male and female for the Toulouse Olympic qualification event. A couple of days later they sent out information in regards last-minute selection rule changes, meaning that some who received the invitations have understood that they are not welcome any longer. In the original selection rule, there was a max country quota of two athletes but this rule has now been deleted. In practice, this means that Japan can send five males and climbers like Jernej Kruder and Alexey Rubtsov, etc seem to be out. Also some female who got an invitation assume they are out. It should be mentioned that both Kruder and Rubtsov did choose to not participate in the last event in Japan as they already had secured their Toulouse spot based on the original rule. If Rubtsov, who was #18 the week before in Xiamen, would have been possibly #32 in Inzai, he would have secured a spot also with the new selection rules.

Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the 27th ascent of La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. The 35-year-old, who previously has done four 9a+', was one of the best Lead competition climbers during 00'-is when he also got a silver in a Boulder WC. (c) l’Algérien "I tried a long time ago, it was an old nemesis. The first it was after I did “La reina mora” (2015). Then I tried 2 years ago but the conditions were hot. Last year I invested some time on it, during 2 months and 5 there and go from Grenoble…and I finished with a pulley damaged. I did only 10 tries and I was falling 8 times at the crux at the end, at this deadpoint move to the two-finger pocket left hand. This year I tried Andrada’s beta at the crux, instead of holding the vertical crimp right hand to the two-finger pocket with the left hand undercling, I hold this one going to a gaston-sloper right hand and then to the two-finger pocket left hand. It’s harder physically but it’s less random."

Zach Galla, the US Combined Champion who did most of the WC's until Hachioji where he was #31 in Bouldering, has done two 8B+'; Echale in Clear Creek Canyon and Mirror Reality in RMNP. "Sick one! Fell on the jump almost every try for the first two days. Hooked it up minutes before the snow melted all over the crux holds today!" Michael Rosato

Seb Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Jorge Diaz-Rullo's Patanics in Rodellar suggesting a down grade to 9a+. "For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+." (c) Julia Cassou Ten days ago he also did the FA of Detectives giving it 9a. ”The King Line of Rodellar in this Grade. Bolted by Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada. Seb's trip to Rodellar started with a broken car. Then the rain come and later he had to go to emergency to remove a metal piece from a quick draw from his eye. "Nothing will perturb a climbing trip !" The French is #2 in the ranking game after Jorge.

Climbing at sector Comic Tree, Kalymnos from Climb Kalymnos on Vimeo.