Supertanker + Salathรฉ Wall direct

Petite vidรฉo sur ma sortie de la semaine derniรจre au Rempart. Au programme : Supertanker (8b+) et une petite FA (7c+?).N'oubliez pas la HD ;)

Posted by Maรซl Bonzom on Monday, January 25, 2016

ZA - High class bouldering video
ZA is now available for HD digital download! This short film strives to pioneer a new style of bouldering viewing complete with strong athletes, vibrant color, sweeping landscapes, and killer soundtracks. Follow along with Daniel Woods, Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, and Nina Williams as they battle tall heights and hard numbers. Take a seat, turn down the lights, and prepare for the stunning imagery of Rocklands as youย’ve never seen it before. Here is the link.

Top 100 Onsight Ranking Game
Leonardo Meggiolaro is the number one counting the Top 100 Onsights the last year. โ€ For me, onsight climbing is the purest and most authentic form of climbinโ€ฆ
Felipe Ho Foganholo has done the first repeat of Felipe Camargo's Libertadores 8B+ in Ouro Preto. The 16-year-old did his first 8B last year and in 2016, Felipe has already done nine 8A's and harder. "I was trying this boulder for almost 8 months. During this time I spent tree trips for Ouro Preto MG as an investment for sending it! I belive that the most difficult part of the hole thing was battle with conditions. It was always raining and what had more afflicted me was that just the last grab was wetting (which the crux is to hold the swing on it) and all the other sequences was possible to figure out, because the boulder is a long roof... Certainly is the hardest ascent I have ever done! Here in Brazil 8B+ is definitively an step above... We just have 3 climbers which reach this step and is an honor to be one of them!"

Old article from Huffington Post discussing - as in the heading - How Rock Climbing Does Your Mind And Body Good. - Boosts brain function - Reduces stress - Teaches valuable life skills - Builds muscles and endurance "Research shows that time spent outside may decrease symptoms of ADHD, improve memory, boost creativity and even wake your brain up with the same effect as drinking a cup of coffee."

Based on 2 000+ unique votes from the poll "Which skill do you lack the most?". 31 % Finger strength 24 % Endurance 18 % Mentality 15 % Flexibility 7 % Technique 5 % Other Most of climbers are focused on finger strength and endurance. What is quite interesting, although technique is seldom trained, climbers seem to think they do not lack this skill :)

Guigui makes the FA of Pied ร  Coulisse 8C+ in Font
Guillaume Glairont Mondet reports on his blog that he completed his long time project in Fontainebleau, "Le Pied ร  Coulisse", grading it an 8C+. Previously Guigui has done five 8C's in Font. How many sessions did you need to do "Le Pied ร  Coulisse"? It took me around 25 sessions over 3 years, 12 between October and January. Is it your style? I would say yes, even if there's a little bit of everything in it : heelhooks, toes, mantle, with both tension and a dynamic move. How do you split your time between comps and projecting? I take advantages when conditions are good to work maximum intensity outside. for this one, I could only manage 3 tries before been wrecked for a day. It's pretty complementary to my indoor training regime. You explain a lot about the grade in your blog post, but how did you came up with 8C+? For me, it was very tough to break down the climb. My friend Nico would say 8B into an 8B, I would say more 8A+ into 8B+, but anyway it doesn't make sense to me. I know for sure that there aren't a move below 7A, and some feel close to 8A in themselves. And there are 14 of them. If I try to compare with other problem in Font, as I said, it was clearly harder for me. If I compare it to the other 8C's I've tried on my recent trips, I come to this conclusion: Individual moves are nowhere as hard as Lucid Dreaming, but there are only two in that one. The Story of Two Worlds have more moves, but it climb faster and the moves are easier on this one. I tried also Insanity of Grandeur during a session, and it felt easier too. My trip in Swizzy was rather short, and it was vacation, but I could get a feeling of those. Pied ร  Coulisse took me way more efforts, it is my style, and I needed a rather special day to do it. It's continuous, strenght oriented, and has low percentage moves from the mantle till the end of the heady slab. That's why I chose this grade.