Dawn Wall - en etkileyici ilk รงฤฑkฤฑลŸ. Ondra farklฤฑ bir ligde.
Adam Ondra'nฤฑn Dawn Wall rotasฤฑna koyduฤŸu onca รงabayฤฑ ve yaptฤฑฤŸฤฑ yorumlarฤฑ gรถrdรผkten sonra, ลŸunu anlamak daha da kolaylaลŸฤฑyor ki Tommy Caldwell ve Kevin Jorgesson'nin ilk รงฤฑkฤฑลŸlarฤฑ dรผnyadaki en etkileyici ilk รงฤฑkฤฑลŸ. 2015'deki 19 gรผn sรผren ilk รงฤฑkฤฑลŸlarฤฑnฤฑn iki ay รถncesinde Tommy Facebook hesabฤฑndan ลŸรถyle yazmฤฑลŸtฤฑ, "Aman tanrฤฑm!!! Altฤฑ yฤฑldan sonra sonunda bu hayvani ip boyunu รงฤฑkabildim. Keven'nฤฑn รถlรผmรผne savaลŸฤฑ bana ilham verdi. Bunun anlamฤฑ tรผm ipboylarฤฑ tek baลŸฤฑna รงฤฑkฤฑlmฤฑลŸ oldu. Heyecandan รถlรผyorum, ellerim titriyor!" Aรงฤฑkรงasฤฑ, Adam Ondra'nฤฑn รผรง 9b+ ฤฐร‡'ฤฑ ve Nalle Hukkataival'nฤฑn yakฤฑnlardaki 9A ฤฐร‡'ฤฑ tepede duruyor ancak bunlar adanmฤฑลŸlฤฑkta ve ilerigรถrรผลŸlรผlรผkte bu รงocuklarฤฑn 100+ gรผnรผ duvarda geรงirmeleri ve bu รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑn mรผmkรผn olup olmadฤฑฤŸฤฑnฤฑ anlamaya รงalฤฑลŸmalarฤฑyla kฤฑyaslanamaz- Altฤฑ yฤฑl รงalฤฑลŸma sonunda! ร–te yandan, eฤŸer Adam Ondra Dawn Wall'un tekrar รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑnฤฑ iki ayda ve lider dรผnya ลŸampiyonasฤฑnฤฑ kazandฤฑktan ve kฤฑsakayada ikinci olduktan sonra yapabilirse tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ tarihine yeni bir รงฤฑta koymuลŸ olacak. Bir ay รถnce, Adam inanฤฑlmaz sert hayvani bir 8c+ rotayฤฑ ilk gรถrรผลŸte รงฤฑktฤฑ ve iki hafta รถnce Jailhous' ta daha รงok dik rota ilkgรถrรผลŸ รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑ yaparak ve LCC'de bazฤฑ sert kฤฑsakaya รงฤฑkฤฑลŸlarฤฑ yaparak kendisini bu รงฤฑkฤฑลŸa hazฤฑrladฤฑ. Acaba dฤฑลŸarฤฑda bir yerlerde patlayฤฑcฤฑ kuvveti dayanฤฑklฤฑkla birleลŸtirecek 23 yaลŸฤฑnda herhangi bir sporcu var mฤฑ? (c) Pavel Blazek

The Dawn Wall - the most impressive FA. Ondra is in another league.
Seeing how much effort Adam Ondra put into working on this line and the comment he has already made on the Dawn Wall, it is clear that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson's FA sticks out as probably the most impressive FA in the world. Two months prior to their 19-day FA in 2015, Tommy reported at Facebook, "Oh my goodness!!! After six years I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss.This officially means all the hard individual pitches have been redpointed. I am so psyched my hands are shaking!" Clearly, any of Adam Ondra's three 9b+ FAs and Nalle Hukkataival's recent 9A FA are also at the top when it comes to vision and dedication but it can not be compared with guys spending 100+ days up on portaledges to find out that it is possible - after six years of work! On the other hand, if Adam Ondra can repeat the Dawn Wall after just two months in Yosemite and just about three months after winning the Lead World Championship and being #2 in Bouldering, the Czech will set another new standard in the history of climbing. A month ago, Adam onsighted a super steep 8c+ and two weeks ago he prepared himself for the Dawn wall by onsighting more steep Routes in Jailhouse and doing some hard Boulders in LCC. Does there exist any other sport athlete in the world that can combine explosive power with ultra endurance like the 23-year-old? (c) Pavel Blazek

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Adam Ondra is getting ready for the push
Tendon has the latest update from the Dawn Wall. It seems that Adam Ondra is almost ready for going for his big push. (c) Pavel Blazek "We had two busy day on the wall, but extremely important motivating ones! At first, I tried the pitch 14, where I still had no idea about what to do in the last boulder problem. After a little session, I could finally do the moves and soon after I gave it a go, but I realized that my beta for the intro moves on the last boulderproblem did not work. It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin thrashed. I still gave it a another that night, slipped on the first boulderproblem but then continued to the anchor. Which gave me a lot of confidence that next time it should work out. Second day, I was incredibly lucky to get overcast day, so I could make a lot of work. At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak in pitch 14 (5.14d), then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pith 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux in pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a) which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang in toprope. To finish the day, I just re-checked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c). It seems like I need yet to work a bit more on pitches 10, 12 and 13 (5.13b) and then pitches 1-6 (only 5.12b to 5.13c range) and I would be ready to go for the push. Can't wait!!!"

Ondra is getting confident on the Dawn Wall
Directly after topping out the Dawn Wall, Adam Ondra, continued working out pitch #14 and reports on Instagram. "Great progress on pitch 14, but unfortunately no send. Took a lot of skin to finally figure out the mystery (3rd and last boulder of the pitch), but I finally have a satisfying beta at least. On my last go, with no skin and really tired, I slipped on the first boulder, but continued straight away to the anchor. I am quite confident that next time it should work out. And next time I think it will be on the push. Photo @pavelblazek (check out his insights from the wall on his instagram too, highly recommended)

8B flash by Michael Piccolruaz
Michael Piccolruaz, who was #2 in a Boulder World Cup this spring and who has flashed two 8A+'s in 2016, has flashed Wrestling with an alligator 8B in Malatal. "I knew it would suit my stile quite well and so I whatched some videos to get the right beta. On friday after the warm up I wasn't too sure if I should try it that day because I was quite tired and my skin was quite sore. But some guys of the team were trying the boulder and got me motivated to give it a go. Eventually everything worked out perfectly how I had planed it and so I got into a kind of flow and climbed trough all the moves perfectly."

9a FA by Jakob Schubert and a 9a+ and 9b in the making
Jakob Schubert, one of the best competition climbers in the world of the last ten years, has done the FA of Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a in ร–tztal and he reports on Facebook with a great picture from Wilhelm Heiko. "The special thing about this route is that you need to climb a 7c to get to the ledge where the route starts. It's a very beautiful spot with a great view into the valley" Now Jakob has travelled to Spain and reports, "First two days were fun and succesful, could do all the moves on 'Joe Mama' 9a+ in Oliana and 'Stoking the Fire' 9b in Santa Linya."