Dylan Chuat, with 23 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has done L'isola che non c'è (9a) in Amden. The picture is from Dylan’s flash of Gnice (8b+). ”Superb hybrid route with the S!! I came here a year ago after a trip to Pic Saint Loup—I fell at the top back then, probably wasn’t in my best shape. We came back today, and I sent it on my first go from the ground, right after figuring out the beta! Such a cool effort, and the sensations were even crazier knowing I was almost sure I wouldn’t fall during my try! (of course without a kneepad, We respect the first ascents 🙏🏼😉)”

What do you mean by ”hybrid route”?
It is half boulder, half sport climb. Basically, I start with a boulder problem—an 8A to be exact—and once I reach the middle, my belayer clips the rope to my harness so I can continue. It’s an amazing route in a stunning location, first opened by the legend Fred Nicole.

Chabi Velilla Sánchez has done Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. It was bolted by Toño Blasco in 2023, with the first ascent by Enrique Beltrán.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It's a very bouldering style route, about 18 meters long, and around 15 of those are roof climbing. I’ve been projecting another 9a in Foz de Zafrané for the last 4 months, and this one went down in about 13 goes. I’m feeling super strong this year.

This route means a lot to me because it’s in one of my local crags, right on the border between Zaragoza and Guadalajara.

What is coming up next?
I want to keep working on 8th-grade routes to improve my onsight climbing.

Lara Trinkl, who the last six weeks has done five 8A’s and her first 8A+, has sent Nail the Rail (8A+) in Zillertal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was originally trying Pit Bull 8A to the right of this boulder and it went ok, but I couldn't send it yet. Just as we were about to leave I thought I could give Nail the Rail a try and it was just fully my style and suited me really well. Even though the topout was scary I actually managed to send it in my first go from the start after checking the moves a few times.

How can you best explain your great progress lately?
Honestly, I have just been climbing a lot outdoors in the last few months. :)

Andrea Kümin, currently six months and eleven 8A’s into a road trip with David Firnenburg, has done Moonwalk (8A+) at Vesterøya. ”Moonwalk is a stunning and technical line right on the coastline of Vesterøya, Sandefjord. A tall, water-washed boulder, split by a single diagonal crack. The holds are round slopers and subtle crimps, with barely any footholds outside the crack – forcing creative movement and tricky heelhooks. The first crux comes right at the start. A polished sloper for the left hand that slopes the wrong way and nearly drove me mad. After a lot of experimenting, I finally found a technical heelhook that worked – but only if I shifted my weight with precision. The middle section is easier, but the real crux when coming from the bottom is the final long move to the top.

The first seven tries were all close – but I wasn’t making progress. My arms were getting tired. But David’s motto: “Stick with it when it’s that close.” So giving up wasn’t an option. Repeating the same beta wasn’t either. I could do the last move in isolation, but from the ground it was too risky and too physical when already tired. We worked out a new solution – a high heelhook on a rounded edge. Still sketchy and super technical, but if it holds, I can block the last move statically. In try 8, the heelhook slipped. I was tired but didn’t want to give up just yet. Attempt 9: the movements felt smooth and automatic, but my arms were cooked after 90+ moves on this problem this day. Somehow I managed to place the heelhook, shift my weight slowly, lock off, and trace my fingertips along the edge to the saving sloper. Completely exhausted, I pulled over the top – and couldn’t believe it. Mega! Sticking with it paid off!”

David has logged over 75 boulders graded 8A and above on the road trip, including 12 flashes—two of which were 8B’s in just the past two weeks. They're now putting together an overview of the best areas and standout boulders from their journey through Scandinavia.

Blå blomster ss (8B) in Moss. ”Oh, wow, that was short and intense. Toe hook sticked, toe stayed, just hit the crimp right, could hold the tension and pull through the lock-off. Thanks to Andrea to demonstrate the moves of the stand start in beforehand. Hard to grade this climb if you only had one try. Did just everything work perfectly? Would it have taken me a whole session after failing the flash try? I was close to fall but it somehow didn’t feel like a proper 8B to me, more like an 8A+ compared to other 8B climbs I’ve done in Sweden on the same type of rock right before coming here. Though, Thilo who did the FA is known for making solid grades. Whatever! Great climb during a fun little session with Andrea. Unfortunately, this place is just next to a road and there is trash everywhere. Norway has definitely more beautiful places to offer😆”

Din Dean (8B) in Tokerud. ”Wow, another flash. One of the great lines on this crag. Was close to miss the pocket but somehow sticked it. Kept it together with some hesitation and imprecise placements here and there. Like Blå Blomster I think it‘s soft for the grade, at least for my size. Maybe 8A+.”

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 17 FA’s 9a+ or 9b, has made the FA of La Sainte Poule (9a+) in Sainte-Baume. The picture is from his FA of Harder Better Faster Stronger (9b) from last autumn.

”Nice line where everything happens in the first part. A dozen moves ( not the most beautiful ! ) that lead to a very nice and tricky boulder section ( about 8A over 3 moves ) , then after a rest (not good) another nice boulder section wich works the shoulders well ! The second part , much less harder, is very beautiful . Bolted by my father with "la Poule" 's points , thanks to him.”