Charles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done one more 8C FA, La révolutionnaire in Fontainebleau. The 20-year-old stopped using shoes about four years ago. (c) Neil Hart "I'm the only one who tried it. It took me some 20 sessions during 1,5 year. There is like 8 moves and the climbing is pretty basic just compression with bad holds in a roof up to a big swing I think it's harder with shoes. It's just a weird pocket for the right foot and I don't think the shoes fits there. In February, he did a direct version of Le pied à coulisse 8C (+) which is said to be impossible with shoes. Even so, Charles suggested 8B+ for his version. In practice, we do not know what grade his last FA gets for the guys using shoes but it could actually be 8C+ or even harder. We will follow up with an article discussing the potential need to adjust some grades because the lines are more easily done barefoot.

Bügeleisen from David Kompatscher on Vimeo.

Bügeleisen from David Kompatscher on Vimeo.

Charles Albert na Facebooku oznámil, že spravil prelez ďalšieho 8C vo Fontainebleau. Tentokrát sa jedná o prvý prelez La révolutionnaire, jeho vlastného projektu. Tento dvadsaťročný lezec prestal používať lezečky pred štyrmi rokmi. (c) Neil Hart "Som jediný, ktorý tento projekt skúšal. Zabral mi približne 20 návštev počas jeden a pol roka. Dokopy má 8 krokov a štýl lezenia je celkom jednoduchý, kompresia v strope za zlé chyty a následne do veľkého kyvadla. Myslím, že v lezečkách je to ťažšie. Na pravú nohu je tam zvláštna dierka a nemyslím, že by sa tam lezečká zmestila. Charles preliezol vo februári priamu verziu Le pied à coulisse 8C (+), o ktorej sa hovorí, že ju nie je možné preliezť v lezečkách. Napriek tomu pre svoju verziu navrhol obtiažnosť 8B+. V podstate nevieme, ako ťažký jeho boulder je za použitia lezečiek, no je možné, že by sa mohlo jednať o 8C+ alebo ťažšie. V nadväznosti na túto novinku prinesieme článok, kde rozoberieme možnú úpravu obtiažnosti ciest a bouldrov, ktoré bude jednoduchšie preliezť bez použitia obuvi.

"Mangarbo" 9a/+ FA by Seb Bouin from Marvin Winkler on Vimeo.

karoline sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this spring, has done her thrid 8B, Heart shaped box sit in Weststeiermark. ""It is a power-endurance problem in a roof which suits me pretty well with some tricky heel- and toehook features. (c) Chris Rauch gave me the perfect beta :-)" What about your injury, winter plans and the Olympics? Before the World Championships in Paris I got an inflammation in my biceps tendon. Had to make a break then and after some weeks I started to do some easy lead climbing again. The tendon is still not fully healed, but thank god it's getting better :-) After Christmas I'll spend nearly 2 weeks in Ticino, afterwards the gym is calling again for the preparation for the World cup season 2017. About the Olympics: I think the selected format is not perfect. For me it's unintelligible why a Boulderer should compete in Lead and Speed too.