Na základe podnetu Francúzskej Horolezeckej Federácie znížila IFSC v minulosti maximálny čas, ktorý mohol lezec stráviť v ceste na obtiažnosť počas semifinále a finále z osem na šesť minút. Zaujímavosťou je, že ešte desať rokov dozadu mohli lezci v ceste stráviť 15 minúť. Za túto dobu 8a.nu niekoľkokrát navrhovalo stanoviť maximálny čas na šesť minút a takisto ustanoviť, že čas by mal rozhodovať v prípadne nerozhodného skóre, čo sa v posledných rokoch aj deje. Teraz IFSC znížila aj čas, ktorý môžu na stene stráviť bouldristi - z 4+ minút na čisté štyri minúty. Posledný rok mohli finalisti ešte nastúpiť v poslednej sekundu a potom si priamo v bouldri oddychnúť, ak na to bol priestor. Toho roku však budú musieť svoj posledný pokus načasovať na cca 3.30, aby stihli boulder doliezť pred koncom časomiery. Takýto formát by mohol finálové pokusy spraviť atraktívnejšie pre divákov. Je ale dosť možné, že výsledky niektorých pretekárov sa vďaka takémuto časovému obmedzeniu zhoršia. Ďalšou zmenou bude menšie množstvo času na oddych medzi pokusmi aj medzi bouldrami, čo z pretekov spraví väčšiu vytrvalostnú výzvu.

Moritz Perwitzschky is in the flow, which he proved doing 15 boulders graded 7C and harder during the last six days, including four 8A+'s and one 8B. To make his recent performance even more impressive, he has done 31 boulders 8A and harder only in 2017. One of his tricks to keep warm. New video. "For keeping our Fingers warm we heat up some stones to put them in the calkbag which works quite well." (c) Hannes Pablitschko

A Day at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu from David Mason on Vimeo.

Just climbing from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Cody Roth, #6 in his Lead World Cup debut back in 2003, has done the FA of Me I Eat Dust 9a in Texas. "I'm not at liberty to give the name or location of this secret spot, but if someone is interested in trying these routes, access can likely be arranged" (c) Kilian Fischhuber - This route does the crux of I, Me, Mine, (downgraded to 8c+ which Kilian actually did second go and he also flashed an 8b+) then carries into an 8A+/8B boulder problem with no rest in between. It's basically a 20 move sequence where only one hand can be chalked. Time wise, last year after I did I Me Mine, I started trying this thing but tore a pulley three days in. I recovered and made some progress in the Spring, but then Summer arrived. I resumed trying it in October or November before suffering the breaking hold set back. Hard to say how many days I put in, for sure more than anything else I've done, but I have little to zero interest in grading anything harder than 9a, I'm old school! A few weeks ago I did my first 8b+ flash and red pointed two 8c+ in a handful of tries, although I downgraded one of them. I guess I'm in a good vein of form. I'm now 33 and climbing maybe better than ever mainly because I know it's fleeting. In my 20's I wasn't very good at prioritizing, I'd stay up until 3 partying and wake up at 9 to go climbing. I never wanted my climbing to be forced or planned. I didn't want to overthink it. I owe a lot of my recent success to my girlfriend and my community here in Austin, they keep me grounded and motivated.

Just climbing od Jimmyho Webba na Vimeu.