L. Matyas - Moonboard [from 8A to 8B] od L. Matyasa na Vimeu.

Pure Cape Town Bouldering od BlocApes na Vimeu.

Matyas Luzan je od roku 2014 posadnutý cestou Action Direct 9a a trénuje špecificky len na túto cestu. V roku 2015 ju vyskúšal, no okamžite sa zranil a v roku 2016 roztrhol lezečku pri skúšaní novej sekvencie so založením špičky. V súčasnosti trénuje 10 hodín denne, väčšinou lezie ťažké bouldre na Moonboarde, potom nasleduje rest day. Video, kde Luzán lezie bouldre do 8B na Moonboarde. "Jednoducho som 10 hodín na stene a snažím sa z toho vyťažiť maximum. Čo vám poviem, milujem to. Popravde je to o prekonávaní bolesti, no teraz to už nie je také dramatické, ako to môže vyznievať. Je to zábava, liezť s druhými a tak." Jeho ďalším plánom je začať znovu trénovať na svojej replike Action Direct. V Máji sa tento Rumun, ktorého doterajší najlepší prelez je 8b, plánuje vrátiť do Frankenjury a squatovať pod Action Direct, usadiť sa tam a čakať na najlepšie podmienky. Čo sa týka nového softvéru, používa ho v strednej časti cesty hneď pred ťažkým bouldrom a vykladá v ňom špičku až nad hlavu. Následne na nej visí cca 15 sekúnd, počas ktorým si cvakne, namádžuje a nachystá sa na ťažký fix, vďaka ktorému však preskočí jednoprstovú dierku vpravo (na obrázku červeným). "Je to jednoduchší softvér, *AK* máš silu vo fixe a si rozťahaný" Interview pre 8a z roku 2015.

Jakob Kronberger has done his second 9a FA, Baumwesen in Salzburger Land. Three weeks ago the 16 year old did The Power of Goodbye 8B. "The route was shown to me by Klem Loskot in last November. Klem showed me his beta for the crux and I immediately fell in love with the Baumwesen. He said it would be totally fine with him if i made the first accent, so I went for it. All in all I spent about 10 days in the route. For the year 2017 my number one priority is to stay healthy. I had quite a few problems with my fingers the last season. I wasn't often able to try really hard routes and when I did, I usually payed the price for it the next day. Aside of that I really want to do a project in Salzburg which I started last season. I don't have many more routes on my wish list this year."

KYMY DE LA PENA has done his first 9a, Seta Total 9a in Cuenca. The route was partially bolted by local Cuco and finished by Luis Alfonso Félix and José Luis Palao 'Primo'. Both did it after the Pablo Barbero's FA and also Ramón Julián. (c) Javipec Based on his scorecard with 600 ascents, we can see that the 31 year old has had a continuous progress for eight straight years. How many tries did it take you? The route took me 4 tries this year. Last season I tried it as well after I sent El Intento (the 8c+/9a on its right) and I was very close, but I couldn't. Maybe 8 tries in total. Tell us more about your progression.. Since 2009, it has been very progressive. I started climbing in 2008 when I was 23. Yap.., I'm not Alex Megos haahaha. I think that the progress is the result of the motivation for climbing, and that is the key, enjoying the same as when I did my first 7a. Also my experience as a trainer, based on working with so many people has made me better in the last years.

training german national bouldering team in the E4 nürnberg from Robert Leistner on Vimeo.

Rock Slave Best Trick Contest - Monkey Island, Roma 3 Marzo 2017 from risk4sport on Vimeo.

training german national bouldering team in the E4 Nürnberg od Roberta Leistnera na Vimeu.