Director's Cut 8B / V13 from Jack Palmieri on Vimeo.

The Anatomy of Bouldering - Part 1: Height from Frischluft on Vimeo.

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done over 20 routes 9a, half of them FAs, has done Definicion de la resistencia démocrata for which he gives a personal 9a grade. "Finish the job is important! Even if you are close, you have to stay focus. Sometime is the more important." The 23 year old French has previously suggested personal down grades for six former 9a to 9b+' included some very famous ones. (c) Jonas Wiklund

Directors Cut 8B / V13 od Jacka Palmieriho na Vimeu.

The Anatomy of Bouldering - Part 1: Height od Frischluft na Vimeu.

Moe's Valley by Lorenz Ulmer from 45degrees on Vimeo.

L. Matyas - Moonboard [from 8A to 8B] from L. Matyas on Vimeo.

Pure Cape Town Bouldering from BlocApes on Vimeo.

Matyas Luzan has been obsessed with Action Directe since the beginning of 2014 and hsa only trained for this route. In 2015, he tried it and got injured immediately. In 2016, he destroyed his shoe once working out a new toe-hook sequence. Nowadays, he is training 10 hours per day mainly just doing boulders on the Moonboard followed by a rest day. Video doing Moonboard's up to 8B. "I just spend 10h in the gym and try to give it my best. What can I say, I love it. Honestly it's just getting through the pain but it's not so dramatic as it sounds now. It's fun, climbing with others and such." His plan is to soon start working on the AD replica again. In May, the Romanian with 8b as personal best, plans to go back to Frankenjura, living dirtbag life under AD, preparing and waiting for the best conditions. In regards the new beta, it is in the middle where he just before the crux, does a toe-hook over his head. He hangs there for some 15 seconds clipping, chalking and doing a very deep lock off, skipping the crux right mono, see right circle in the picture. "This is an easier sequence *IF* you have lock off strength and mobility." 8a interview from 2015

Moe's Valley by Lorenz Ulmer od 45degrees na Vimeu.