Thomas Blaabjerg has done his first 8B+, The Never Ending Story in Magic Wood four years after he had a bad accident which still forces him to use crutches during the approach. When it comes to landing on the crash pad he cannot land directly on his just feet, instead he has to fall down on his back. (c) Camilla Hylleberg - In 2013, I had an accident climbing on the auto-belay in my local gym, that resulted in an eight meter long free fall leaving me with a broken wrist, two crushed heels and, according to the doctors, some bad prospects for the future. Today, 4 years later, I still have to do a lot of rehabilitation; I still have trouble with walking, everyday activities and many things in climbing. However, if I’m careful, it’s still possible for me to climb hard, especially on rock, where it is easier for me to compensate for the lack of movement and strength in my feet. In climbing, there are a lot of things, which is almost impossible for me now, but there are still lots of things that I can do, so I’m very happy with that! I tried the line on and off over 4-5 days, but it was only the last 2 days where I gave it actual send burns from the bottom. In the crux (the connection of part one and two) it all comes down to a hard right heel hook, which I found very difficult. Therefore I spent the first sessions trying to connect this part. When I did that, around 3 moves before the red point crux, I knew I was able to do the full line.

Live-streaming Updated results (c) Eddie Fowke semi gallery

Adam Ondra has onsighted In the Middle of Nowhere and Grandslam (after break) in Frankenjura giving both a personal 8b+ grade. Besides being the best overall climber in the world since he was 15 years old, especially superior in onsight, he is also the top climber who suggests the most personal grades. In total the 24 year old has recorded 149 onsights 8b+ and harder, however, using regular topo grades, it should be at least 20 more. Now Adam is in Flatanger to continue on his Project Hard 9c but meanwhile he made the FA of Halibut 8c+ on his second go. "start like Elden Inuti, then directly into the anchor of Litt pa Kanten. Bolted by Joe Kinder."

Romain Desgranges, who last week got the gold in the European Championship, won the first stage of the Lead World Cup. Last year the 34 year old was #3 in the Lead World Cup and this start of the season is actually just a continuation of an almost 14 year progress trend. Among the females, the 2016 overall winner Janja Garnbret won again and actually in a rather spectacular way getting a complete, just standing no-hands rest, before executing the last dyno. More great pictures by Eddie Fowke. 1. Romain Desgranges FRA - Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Domen Skofic SLO - Mina Markovic SLO 3. Fedir Samoilov UKR - Anak Verhoeven BEL 4. Jan Hojer GER - Jain Kim KOR 5. Yuki Hada JPN - Jessica Pilz AUT Complete results It's impressive that Slovenia with just 2 million inhabitants continues it's domination. The most surprising results is that Jan Hojer almost made the podium. The Boulder Champion also exceled in Speed with 8.56 and should just by this be a contender also for the Tokyo Combined podium. In a short comment after his climb, he said that he was really pleased to just make it to the semifinal as he has not for several months trained and done four routes during a weekend! It was also great to see that 16 year old Laura Rogara from Italy defended her #6 position from last weekend in the European Championship. This must be kind of a nice surprise for the young Italian who in the last European Youth Cup was #4.

Alex Puccio has done Freshly Squeezed 8A+ in RMNP. In total, the #2 in the Boulder World Champion, has done 66 boulders 8A+ to 8B+. (c) Joel Zerr "What a nice line!!! I tried it the other day for the first time. It was too hot and couldn't send. Went back today with better temps and sent first try from the start! This boulder is notorious for being hard. It's so steep that it's almost a roof and the feet are kind of small. The second move was actually the hardest for me since I was unable to keep the foot on for the bump move so I had to make it into a jump. Another classic off the list!"

Alex Khazanov has had a remarkable start of his Rockland trip by doing 16 boulders 8A and harder including five flashes. Yesterday he got his and Israel's first 8C by doing Fred Nicole's Monkey Wedding. (c) Valdo Chilese "I am truly happy, overwhelmed and humbled to send this boulder, further more in only 3 days of work. My first and Israel's first 8C. A dream..."

Reza Alipourshena and Anouck Jaubert won the Speed event in Villars and in fact, Jaubert did do the final twice as in the first final she had the exact same time as Iuliia Kaplina. Among the guys going for the Olympic, Jan Hojer impressed the most at 8.56 being overall #29 of the 40 participating. Video high lights (c) Eddie Fowke has presented a nice Gallery as always. Complete results