Anak Verhoeven, #2 in the World Cup last year and winner of the European Champion in 2017, reports that she has done the FA of Sweet Neuf 9a+ in Pierrot Beach, which is a link up of an 9a and a 8c/+. She did the FA of the 9a, Sang Neuf, last week. The route then goes and links the second pitch of Home Sweet Home. This is the first time ever a female does a 9a as well as a 9a+ FA. Margo Hayes was the first female who did 9a+ with L Rambla last year. Anak has previously done 22 routes 8c and harder including Era Vella which most think is 9a. (c) Sébastien Richard - Last year in April, after I had done the FA of Ma Belle Ma Muse, I tried Sang Neuf (9a) for about 3 climbing days, but had to leave the project due to bad weather. Although very overhanging, the moves are very technical with bad footholds. The move between the second and the third quickdraw is very far and you need a good belayer because if you fall you end up quite close to the ground. At that time I was able to do all the moves but not every time I tried them. Especially the last boulder move before the chain, with an extreme shoulder move, was so hard that I wondered if I would ever be able to do it after I had already climbed the rest of the route. Before leaving the place, my mother had filmed all the sequences so that, in case I would come back, I would remember the moves and not have to spend too much time working out the route again.

One legged World Champion Urko Carmona has done Mal de Amores in Rodellar, which is his first 8a+. During his summer trip around some Spanish crags, he also did his first 7c+ onsight, in a new area in Cantabria. (C) Beto Abad "This year I also did one of my hardest routes, Mal de Amores 8a+ in Rodellar. It was one of my goals for 2016. It is for sure one of my hardest because is 40m long, with a few hard boulder problems and endurance with just a few goodish rests. I guess that trying this route gave me the strength, endurance and trust to onsight the 7c+. I have been always close to do 8a or 7c+ onsight, but I just could do it on my second go. I'm very happy. "

The Youth World Championship in Innsbruck was a huge success for the organizers, IFSC and competition climbing. The new route setting style mainly based on volumes and the great live streaming made it really fun to watch. Many of the youngsters showed that they are well ahead of the seniors in Speed and maybe a dozen of them will actually make it to Tokyo. It should also be mentioned that it seemed just one climber was timed out based on the new 6 minute rule. In regards the results, the team from Japan, USA and Russia totally dominated at the same time as the mid European countries got relatively poor results. In the last two YWC Japan did get one gold each and this year they got eight golds and a total of 24 medals! USA has gotten almost as nice of progress. Improvements are possible when it comes to false start in Speed which create total anti-climax. One easy solution is to add about two seconds for a false start so some excitement can be kept. As it is called and defined as the best Combined climber, it would be better if the ranking for each disciplines were added instead of multiplied. As it stands, it is more important to be excellent in one or two disciplines instead of being very good in all three. Things that have to be fixed is to show time in Lead and also to mark up the boulders so there are no more confusing misunderstandings how to top out. (c) Eddie Fowke - Collin Duffy tops out and wins Youth B was one of the highlights. Fast forward to 1:07:30 on the video.

Marcel Remy, over 94 years old, has climbed the north-west of Miroir de l'Argentine, 450 m high, 12 pitches, 5b+with his two sons and friends. Mammut will make a video about the ascent as well as how he came down flying a dual-parapente. The film will also include climbing from Kalymnos and Leonidio where he is a frequent guest.