Patxi Usobiaga, one of the very best competition climbers in the history has done Pachamama 9a+/b in Oliana. It was put up in 2009 and it has been repeated five times out which some have said it is hard for the grade. Patxi is the first to suggest 9a+/b. Patxi's story of the eight year battle. Patxi has a special relationship with this route cause back in 2009 was where he got injured his shoulder and months later due to the car crash he stopped climbing for years. Last april Patxi sent again 9a+ with Papichulo and then he tried the route for a while. (c) Javipec

Freak Brothers - Ticino Bouldering from Serious Climbing on Vimeo.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the second ascent of Kaizen 8C/8C+ in Torrelodones, Spain. Beto Rocasolano did the FA and proposed 9A, without the new Jorge's beta including a rest that Jorge has found for his send making the boulder completly different. (C) Jaime Díaz. And writes on his scorecard: "Oh my God I still can't believe it! Thanks for this high peak motivation and strength! Tired today and having tried it just two days the last year, got a magic try and I nailed it to send.. Ace Beto for the FA. Hard to grade though with some new beta and a new rest would be easier than when Beto did it. IMO will be in the 8C/8C+ range, the repeaters will confirm it. Super happy! Now keep going! " Needs to be mention that the traverse grade is approximately two grades easier than in the regular scale. For example an 8A traverse equals to a 7C.

Leah Dempsey has in just four session done Sleepy Hollow 8A (+) in Grampians and the amazing thing is that she started climbing in 2013. In 2015, she did her first 7A boulder and last year she did her first 7C. In Lead, she has jumped from 8a to 8b+ in 2017. "I don’t know if I have fast track method for my progress, apart from the fact that I enjoy the whole challenge of training and taking responsibility for my own climbing and progress. Also having a super supportive and encouraging network have helped an insane amount. Believing is key! Oh, and having lots of fun!" So what about training? Mainly just bouldering in the gym, campusing, fingerboarding, as well as some basic core and shoulder stability exercises. Nothing too strict. All depends on the project/upcoming trip at the time. I make sure that I have at least five days off every four months to not burn out.

Luca "Bbazooka" Rinaldi has flashed his first 8B through a solo mission on Blinded by the Light in Brione. "It was an unexpected thing. In the morning I saw Jimmy's (Webb) video. Almost always his beta is perfect for me, we are taller, we weigh 80kg and climb the same way...I wanted to try it before trying Nike (the project of the day) ...I've always thought that "the flash try" is just one for life...many times I do not try to flash the hard boulder...i think: I can't do it...but this time as in some cases I sat there and I did my first attempt from the start with the free mind and I was on top of the boulder...After 10 ten seconds i realized that in guidebook this is 8b...

les disciples de Pyhrron 8B+ Saint antonin noble Val from phil on Vimeo.

Muten Röshi 8a+. Albarracin from Michiel on Vimeo.