Jose Agustí did his first 9a last October being 40 years old and now he has released a video.

Sant Miquel del Fai Tardor / 2017 from Ivan Rocamora on Vimeo.

When Dave Graham put up The Story of Two Worlds as an 8C in 2005, 8a had for years talked about grade inflation. Graham's name related actually to the two grading worlds that existed at the time. Many thought 8C was just a sand bag grade and when Paul Robinson did the first repeat, one big website actually first reported it as 8C+. Sebastian Cotting did the 14th ascent the last week, using the lay down start which Dai Koyamada invented and suggested 8C+ for, and presented a video showing some new sequences he found. Here is his comments on the grade. "There’s always a way to do it better - Find it!“ And I found it. Enough to climb Dave Graham’s masterpiece „The Story of Two Worlds“. 3.5 years of trying and specific training. It was a crazy journey. After all the Betas we found (kneebar, heel-toe-lock), I think "Story" is closer to 8B+ than to 8C. Thanks to everybody, who helped me, to find all this crucial micro-betas. Regarding the low start: It basically adds only one more move. The first move and to put the knee bar is harder too. But no, there is almost no difference to the normal start (it's just nicer :). But keep in mind: With the NEW Betas. The low start was for sure harder for Dai. Not to mention how insanely difficult his Beta is for the whole "Story". My greatest respect to Dai!"

Keenan Takahashiand Ethan Pringle has done The Nest 8C in Red Rocks after having worked it for a long time. Daniel Woods put it up in 2013 and it has previously seen five ascents. Keenen's Insta, including picture: This one was quite a journey; I don't know if there's any other move I've tried more than the one pictured. So much microbeta, self-doubt intertwined with self-belief, existential crises in full effect, and finally the strangest and most wild sensation of place in the world. Many huge mental and physical battles but the war is finally over! From Ethan's Insta we see that he got inspired by Keenen's beta and fired it of on project day #50.

Ryuichi Murai, #3 in the 8a ranking game, comments the Japan Bouldering Cup where he sensationally got the silver which made him qualify to the national team going for the World Cups. "I spent only one month to training for BJC2018. I mainly trained my weak movements. For example, coordination and triple dyno. Additionally I also did pull-up with Beastmaker2000." 1st Kokoro Fuji - Akiyo Noguchi 2nd Ryuichi Murai - Ai Mori (14) 3rd Tomoa Narasaki - Futaba Ito (15) Interesting is that it was basically only this competition with 160 participants where new athletes could qualify for the national team and the World Cup 2018. "An athlete who have high world ranking last year, and an athlete who won in Bouldering World Cup last year, could already be qualified." Futaba Ito won the Youth World Championship where she was accompanied by two 14 year olds. Ai Mori was #7 in that World Championship but she is to young to do WCs this year. Some coaches said last year in Innsbruck that these Japanese girls are the future. Bear in mind that these young girls did actually beat Miho Nonaka #4 in the WC last year as well as Aya Onoe and Mei Kotake, #10 and #11 in the WC 2017. Remember also the fast positive trend for Japan and that they had five guys in Top-8 last year. With so many new faces winning over some of the best boulderers, we just might see the Japanese domination increase in the future.

Michaela Kiersch reports on Instagram that she has made the FFA of Necessary Evil in Virgin River Gorge after some 5-6 days working it. The 30+ m test-piece was bolted by Boone Speed and Chris Shama did the FA being 16 years old as his first 8c+ which was the highest grade in USA 1997. Part of the preparation for Michaela to do the classical route was the USA Bouldering Natonals where she was #11. "I wasn’t training for bouldering nationals, I was training for this! I am usually in better sport climbing shape and have been focusing my training on finger strength." The last two years, Michaela has done six 8c+ and one 8B boulder. In the Combined 8a ranking game, she is a superior #1. Interesting is that she graduated from University in November and is now a full time climber.

Sebastian Cotting has set a personal best by doing Dai Koyamada's low version of The Story of Two World's in Cresciano after 80 days of projecting. Dai put it up as an 8C+ but later 8C have been suggested as the low laying start does not seem to add so much difficulty.

"The Story of two Worlds" by Sebastian Cotting from Giuliano Cameroni on Vimeo.

Giuliano Cameroni has added 14 boulder 8A+ to 8B+ which he has done this winter mainly around Ticino, out of which 10 FAs. On the picture, the 20 year old does Iur 8B+ in Cresciano which was the vision from Markel Mendieta. Do you have more projects? There is still a lot of potential, especially for hard climbs. Many of the projects in Ticino are really hard to visualize, but when you learn how to look at the rock it seems that they are everywhere. This place is going to be futuristic!