Gabriele Moroni, who is working full time as a route setter, including international competitions, has sent Vivi si muore (9a+) and Trainspotting (9a+) in La Stazione, logging them as 9a’s. At 37, the Italian first made headlines in 2004 by earning a bronze medal at the European Bouldering Championship. Before that milestone, he had already built an impressive record in Lead, claiming three European Youth Cup titles and the Youth World Championship. He wrapped up his competition career in 2018, finishing on a high with a victory in a Bouldering World Cup event that same year. Then in 2023 he made a comeback and in his first comp he was 25th. (c) Ale Palma

How is the summer going in between all route setting?
My summer is going well. It has been pretty hot in the last couple of months but the few times I managed to get outside I’ve been lucky with decent conditions. I am not training much these days but somehow I feel pretty fit and I am very happy that I can still climb routes around 9a rather quickly!

What is your next plan?
I’ll have two weeks holiday in august so the plan is to chase some fresh conditions in the alps.

Michael Piccolruaz, Nicolai Užnik and David Firnenburg have sent The smile (8C) in Rocklands. Giuliano Cameroni made the FA in 2018 and the high ball stood unrepeated until last year. (c) Daniel Gajda

Can you tell us more about the trip and The Smile?
Michael:[pictured] We've been on the trip for two weeks now. I came out with Nicolai and his girlfriend Sofya and then we met up here with a couple more friends. It's Nicolai's and Sofya's first time here so I've been showing them around a bit on all the amazing classics, while I've climbed some lines I hadn't done during my previous trips. I'm really looking for the good lines and I'm especially keen on some that are a little spicy in terms of height, so The Smile is just the perfect climb that fits all I'm looking for! Unbelievable line, crazy beautiful, the rock is out of this world and the moves are insane. The final jump to the lip makes the whole climb mentally quite challenging but I think I have a good head in such moments so I was confident that I would have a good chance of sending the boulder if I should get up there. When I finally did the move to the right eye of the smile, I just kept going, shut off my brain and jumped.

Nicolai: Definitely one of the coolest and also scariest boulders I’ve done. Since the last move is very committing I had to jump down twice after doing the actual crux move because I was not able to jump off / commit. I did in on the next attempt though so in total I had one session working on it and then did it the next. Probably low end 8C and if it was not for the height I think 8B+ would fit better.

David: So pretty and high wall. Can’t get any better than this! Emotionally challenging, although rationally you know that falling on the top move isn‘t too bad. Once I committed like 80% on the last big move to the lip and landed nicely, I broke my mental barrier. The climbing didn‘t feel like a proper 8C to me but maybe it is due to its height. Undoubtedly it influenced my climbing. Anyways, legendary bloc! 2 sessions.

Luca Bertacco skips 8B+ and does Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. Focusing mainly on routes, the 24-year-old has sent 9a and flashed 8c.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I came into the valley early Saturday morning without a clear idea of what I really wanted to try; at the time, I had three problems in mind that were equally motivating, but only two of them seemed truly doable in a short amount of time. One of them was "Flow State." I have nothing but fond memories of this boulder; since the first time when I managed to flash You drive me crazy (8A) to last Tuesday when I managed to send Grizzly (8B) and Flow (8B) in a single day in just a few tries. So trying the full link seemed like the obvious choice. That morning the valley was super quiet because it had recently rained, and there were few people around.

From the warm-up, the feeling was more than good; after a couple of pulls on the hangboard and with the elastic band, I decided to do a reconnaissance run of "Flow" to re-examine the exit, which I had only seen once before, not knowing that I would quickly find myself at the top of the problem.

More psyched than ever, I returned to the base of the boulder and began reviewing the sequences of the first section, which I needed to climb perfectly to get back to where I started my reconnaissance. The first two tries didn't go bad, but due to some hesitation and small mistakes, I fall on the exit with the sloper of the crux sequence in my hand. I knew it was only a matter of time; the first two goes convinced me that I had the abilities to do the boulder, so I didn't fret needlessly. After a good rest, I sat under the start of the boulder, and without realizing it, something switched in my head and I entered the flow state. In the first section, I didn't repeat the small mistakes I'd made previously and felt the holds like never before. I reached the rest point halfway up and focused on my breathing. When I've decided to go again, I wasn't thinking about anything; my body was simply doing what it had already done before and what my mind knew could be done.

When I woke up, I find my self on the top of the boulder with a sense of lightness I hadn't felt in a long time. Days like this remind me why I love this sport; I think only climbing can provide that sense of addiction that pushes you to try something to your limit, without making you feel completely satisfied once you reach your goal. I'm so happy that my first problem of this grade came so unexpectedly and naturally, especially in a place close to home that is increasingly gaining a place in my heart. For this reason, I want to thank everyone who has contributed to enhance this valley and who continues to do so by opening and cleaning new problems, because I believe it's not an easy job, justifiable only with a healthy dose of passion. Thanks also to Kevin for the great company and for capturing the magical moment with some of the best photos I have while climbing! See you soon Val Daone!

Cy McIntosh has completed Moonshine (9a) in The Remuda. The 19-year-old started the season with two 8c+’ under his belt and now he has added eight routes 8c+ or 9a to his name, beside having also done 17 routes 8c. ”Surprised that I’m capable of this. Suits me better then I would’ve thought.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Ya, I went to that wall to try Throwin the Houlihan (8b+) but that route felt heinous. So I got on Moonshine instead and to my surprise it felt possible. After a few days of consistent progress I fell on the last move and also hurt my finger on that go. After a day of stress and questioning how to move forward in life with an injured finger I just decided that I gotta keep climbing and whatever happens happens. I sent the next try.

How is your finger now?
I think it’s fine. Some type of acute injury from getting it stuck in a pocket. It only hurts when I touch it not while climbing.

Is it correct that the the route you could not do is just 8b+?
Haha ya. Old school hard Todd Skinner route.

Pepa Šindel, with ten 9a’s and beyond under his belt, has completed the classical Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. ”A legendary route, which Wolfgang Güllich climbed in 1991 and pushed the imaginary limits of human possibilities. One of the best lines I have ever climbed!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
We started our classic summer trip with the good old climbing in the German Frankenjura. And this year, the time has finally come to try the legendary "Action Directe". The first 9a of the world, which Wolfgang Güllich climbed in 1991 and pushed the limits of human possibilities. I did all the moves relatively quickly and was comfident that I am going to send it. However, I fell several times at the very top on the last move into the jug. It was clear that I will do it...

All that remained was to wait for the magical try and the right conditions. I spent 9 days on the route and about 25 attempts in total. Right after climbing Action, I moved to the Krottenseer Turn and tried another famous one from Güllich, "Wallstreet". The first 8c in the world. A beautiful line and a rock where the history of climbing was also written once again. I climbed Wallstreet on the second day, Sunday, on the 4th attempt. Just a great „Wolfgang” weekend :)

Andrew Nimmer, who has 8B+ as his PB and who flashed an 8B last week in Rocklands, has flashed The guest list (8B) and Amandla (8B+). The latter he logged as an 8B.

Can you tell us more about the flashes?
After flashing Sky I had some friends recommend I join them on The Guest List and try to flash it [pictured). This climb suited me very well and felt like climbing at the red river gorge which I grew up climbing at.

For Amandla, I saw Nicolai’s video of him flashing it and I thought I would try to flash with a similar beta. This climb looked similar to The Swarm (classic 8B/+ in Bishop) in difficulty and style. I gave an alright flash attempt on The Swarm a few years back. I felt like I’m climbing stronger now and that Amandla would suit me better than The Swarm because it’s on sandstone with better feet. I climb well on sandstone and find that I can make better use out of the more positive feet and gritty texture compared with other types of rock.

Not seeing anyone climb on it in person or being able to feel out all they holds from the ground made the flash more spicy and memorable. Grabbing the final crimp and sticking the lip felt great as these holds felt like any climbers dream. The mantle felt like icing on the cake.

Are you going into projecting mode now or are the more flashes coming up?
I want to give El Corazon a good flash go. I also want to climb the other mega classic 8B’s The Vice and Mooiste Meise. Those look a little harder to flash but I’ll still try. I would like to try Book Club and Monkey Wedding as well.

How do you warm up before a hard flash?
Normal warm up, maybe pull on the tension block lightly and then hang around on jugs. Today after doing that I did 3 laps on a v5 and then flashed a v10 [7C+] and v11 [8A] and then felt warm enough. Then I rested an hour and then went for Amandla.

Another note is that I’ve been stopping climbing most days before becoming exhausted so while I’m climbing less, I’m more fresh every day and can send more.

Loic Zehani, with 18 FA’s 9a+ or 9b to his name, has done the FA of The come back (9a+) in Gargantua. ”Start with the new route "dynamite" just to the right of "satan" , then the middle part of "plénitude cérébrale", the shoulder movements of "uncle spit" to finish with the bouldery L2 of "gargantuesque".

Very hard first ten moves until "satan L1"(more or less 8c+) , then a very physical and powerfull 8b+ (25 moves) end for finish an 8b more fingery and bouldery. First big redpoint after my ankle injury I am very happy! Gargantua cave is perfect for not getting hurt my ankle again.”

What is coming up next?
I don’t have any specific plans. First, I’d like to fully recover from my injury, which was only a month ago (a total ligament tear in my ankle). Then I’ll just climb routes I enjoy and enjoy myself. 🤙🏽