Although the semifinal route was nice, it was way too easy. At the end, when the four favorites climbed and topped, there was almost no excitement and the spectators were quite retracted. Further more another four got 44+ and there will be ten doing the final at 19.00. This means that the World Championship podium could be decided who climbs the fastest if there are ties among the Top-3 in the final. In fact it could have been eleven girls into the final but Lucka Rakovec (17) stood on a bolt. Anyhow Slovenia did get two into the final as did Japan and Austria. One big problem is that there are no watch visible in the screen so it will be hard to follow who is climbing faster. Other than that, the live-streaming was at it's best also including a digital map showing who is in the lead etc. Complete results

Maggie Odette has done Millennium 8b (+) in Maple Canyon. "It’s a really cool line that gives you an 8a pump before doing a 7A+/B boulder, with a redpoint crux jump to the chains! So fun! And...there’s an extension or two..." (c) Zoltan Papp Maggie did her first 8a being 41 years old and two years later she did her first 8a+. In 2014, being 44 years old she did her first 8b+.

Although the difficulty of the routes were almost spot on with only Adam Ondra topping two routes, after some competitors in the start it was noticed that one hold was wrongly placed and some seven climbers were allowed to re-climb the route. On another route, a banner logo was inside the route and unfortunately, Romain Desgranges had been standing on it, meaning the ruling world champion failed to make it to the semi. In fact, also Ondra seemed to have touched but anyhow, if he would have been called down he would still made it to the semi as he was the only to top the other route. (c) JOHANN GRODER - Innsbruck2018.com It should also be mentioned that there were several protests so it was a very hectic day for the jury president. The biggest sensation was that Rudolph Runa qualified to semi as #5. Japan was overall the best nation with five guys through to the semi and seven guys Top-31. Also Italy had a very good result with three in Top-11. Also Austria did get three into semi Top-26. Complete results

The female have started their two first qualification routes and here you have the updated results and the live streaming. You can also down load the App, "IFSC Lead" and follow the results and via "Innsbruck" stay updated.. Full schedule etc is available on IFSC. Tomorrow the 126 male will do the Lead qualification and it is about to make it among Top-26 to make it to the semifinal. Both male and female compete in two groups doing two different routes so in practice, you need to be Top-13 in each group to make it to the semi. On Saturday, the female will do the semi at 13.00 and the final at 19.00 and on Sunday it is the male with the same schedule.

The World Championship in Innsbruck got an excellent start with four almost perfect routes for the female. All the big names on top of the list including Janja Garnbret who was the only one to get two Tops. In fact, all Top-10 mentioned by 8a made it through to the Top-26 semifinal. Complete results (c) Erich Spiess More pics from Innsbruck2018. In general, Austria was the best country with three girls Top-8 and a total of four to the semi. Japan did only participate with three female and they were all Top-12. Also Slovenia did get three women to the semifinal and seven in Top-34.

Tristan Chen skips 9a and does his first 9a+, Jaws II in Rumney. His first and only 8c+ he did in 2015. (c) Kevin Donovan "I put 22 days in over three years. Spent the whole summer in 2016 working the crux move on Jaws, but didn't stick the move. Was kinda close to the move last year, but still didn't do it. I finally did it this spring, but dry fired right after and couldn't send. Rumney is my home crag and Jaws has been the hardest thing for over 1000 miles so I've always wanted to do it. Flew into Boston from Denver for the weekend just to do this climb, and did it first day back on about 3 hours of sleep, and two donuts for breakfast. The difference was that I was just way stronger than before, I trained non stop through the spring, and climbed much more outside, than I have in the past, through the summer. I trained lock offs on and off for the last couple years. This spring I actually only campused for about 2 months, since my foot was injured. That and quite a bit of weight lifting."

alizee dufraisse has done her third 8B the last month in Rocklands, Fragile Steps which she gives a personal 8A+ grade as it just took her three sessions. In the 8a ranking game, the French is #5. "Now Switzerland and USA more bouldering before Spain and La Rambla. I m super sycked to go back this winter!! Let's see. I'll focus on that all winter. Start some route climbing in America before, mixing with bouldering and then Spain."