Alex Puccio and Miho Nonaka, (c) Vladek Zumr, were the only ones to do all four boulders in the semi and they did it both in five tries. Keita Watabe won by flashing all four and in total, eight topped all problems. Three Japanese to the final and the World Champion Kai Harada #7. In the final, Miho and Alex were in the lead from the start and in the super final Puccio takes and early fall but on the fourth move they are anyhow neck and neck on the fourth move until Puccio falls and Miho cruises to the buzzer. Among the male, Jernej Kruder and Jongwon Chon were also in the lead the whole way. In the super final, they started dancing and the clock is ticking. After a butt bump they speed climbing to the top with Jernej some few seconds ahead... and more dancing on top... Ekaterina Kipriianova and Tomoaki Takata got the bronzes. Complete results Finals video

Sam Elias - Driven to Climb from SCARPA North America on Vimeo.

Choong Katherine, #17 in the Lead WCH in Innsbruck in spite of almost only training on rock, has done Nordic Plumber 8c in Flatanger. In the 8a ranking game, she is #2. "Unfortunately, the day of the semis in Innsbruck, I woke up really sick. Stomach and head ache (I even vomit :-( ), my hole body was sore. But at the end, I was able to fight in the route and I'm pretty happy with my performance considering the circumstances. I ended 17th. Then we flew directly to Flatanger. This crag was on my list for a longtime and I have to admit that my mind was blown by the landscape and the impressive cave. To get used to the very steep roof, I first tried the first pitch of Nordic Flower (8b/+). I was so impressed by the super long line of Nordic Plumber that shares the same start as Nordic Flower that I could not resist to try it : almost 60 meters of dynamics moves, underclings, toe and heel hooks above the head on a perfect granit rock with a high red-point crux at the very very top on a slopey rail, where I fell on my second day. To exhausted to try again, I clipped the chains the day after in a good fight and hard mental game. Everthing I love ;)" (c) Esteban Lahoz

Stefano Carnati, who did his first 9a+ when he was 17 years old, has done Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. This was actually the 17 ascent of Chris Sharma's mega-classic from 2001 which makes it actually the third most repeated 9a+ in the world after Papichulo (18) and La Rambla (23). (c) Don Mason " I started working on it last July and in September I was able to climb the first part a few times. Back on it this year in May, feelings were much better, but most of the times I struggled to find good conditions. Yesterday everything was perfect: with a strong wind blowing, I felt physically good, my mindset was calm and relaxed! I could not lose one of the very last chances to send it this year! And it all went in the right way!" More comments by Stefano.

Max Bertone has done Pari in Ouaki (video) giving it a personal grade of 8b+ just like his 13 year old sister Oriane. She has done 27 boulders 8A to 8B (+). Max has done three, the first one being eight years old. (c) Antoine Veillard from an 8b Max did this summer.

Edu Marin reports on Insta that he has done Adam Ondra's Valhalla 9a/+ in Flatanger. "It has been very important for me to carry out this route after suffering a serious accident falling to the ground from 4 meters. It has been a whole process to maintain the motivation and form during the days of recovery, a whole learning." (c) Esteban Lahoz Edu has previously done some 15 routes 9a to 9a+ and 8c onsights. The Spaniard has also done MPs up to 8c, boulders up to 8B+ and he won the World Cup in Chamonix in 2006.

Gholaamali Baratzadeh, #21 in the WCH in Innsbruck, and Jernej Kruder flashed all four boulders in the Adidas Rockstars qualification. Most of the big names from Innsbruck did take part and a total of 19 did do all four boulders. Among the female, Stasa Gejo was #1 with three flashes and the first to not make it to the semi did not do any top. Also Miho Nonaka, Petra Klingerl from the WCH final made it to the semi. Complete results © Christian Waldegger On Saturday the semi, Top-20 + 3 wild cards, will be live-streamed 11.00 following IFSC rules. The Top-6 kick-out final starts 20.15 where only the Top-3 remains after the two first boulders. Then these battle for the two spots into the super final starting 22.20 on two identical boulders. If there are ties, achieved holds will separate. In the super final, the fastest that hit the buzzer on the top wins. Baratzadeh: "It was a great way to celebrate my birthday flashing all the boulders, maybe my best day climbing so far. This is the second year that I’m the best in the qualification; the problems were easier than in the WCH, but I still think it was hard to flash all four of them. So I’m really happy to have made it. I will try to keep my performance up for tomorrow at the semifinal and maybe the final!"