Great male qualification in Buenos Aires although we did see three tops in Lead, meaning time decided the results. All the five ranked favorites made it through to the Top-6 final and the #6 in the prediction was seventh overall due to a foot slip. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Keita Dohi, qualification winner who was the only one topping all four boulders.

Luis Rodríguez has sent his 4th 9a, Chilam-Salsa in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. With almost 80m of climbing the route starts on Chilam-Balam 1 8c+ and ends on Salsa Desnivel 8c, a route bolted by Bernabé Fernández and finished by Rafa Fanega. © Víctor Romera "Another king line. Connection between the first pitch of Chilam-balam (8c+) and Maldita envidia (8c). 80 metres of joy!" Luis has recorded 14 routes between 8c+ and 9a and in the 12 months global ranking game he is #8.

Although only a couple male Speed specialists competing in the Youth Olympic Games qualifying, half of the youngster did go sub 7.47. Sam Avezou 7.05 sticks out and in fact only Tomoa Narasaki was faster among the non-Speed specialist in the WCH in Innsbruck. In general, the youngsters werr considerably faster than most of the seniors competing in Combined in Innsbruck. As an example, Combined winner Jakob Schubert had 7.55 and #2 Adam Ondra did 9.32. Complete results It should be mentioned that also many of the girls did climb faster in comparison to the female in Innsbruck but not to that extent as for the male.

Laurent Vigouroux has done his eight 8c+, XXL in Calanques meaning he has reached a new All time High. One more 8c and he is #2 in the 40+ ranking game. "I have spent 12 winter seasons on it (probably more than 120 days and more than 450 tries) to complete it! I have fallen at the very last section around 18 times. In fact, there is a mantle which is not so hard (7b route) after the crux section but there is no rest and it asks a good resistance. I had to train differently and change my climbing style to be able to send it. For me, it was more a mental battle for not giving up and stay motivated, for staying strong enough all along these years. Happy to do it 7 days before my 40th birthday. In twelve years my "climbing" has evolved a lot. I have more experience, more technics and more mental resources. I'm also better understanding the climbing sport in its scientific components. I'm researcher in Faculty of Sport Sciences in Marseille and part of my work addresses to climbing sciences. Surprisingly, I'm also feeling in better physical shape than 12 years ago. I have more power, more resistance even if I expected the contrary! The key point for succeeding in this route was to re-began to climb indoor. In fact since I'm twenty, I climb 90% outdoor. But 3 years ago with the opening of the indoor gym "mur de Luminy" just next to my office, I re-began to climb indoor on more modern routes. That gave me first a push for physical training but it learned me to fight more when your are completely pumped. This way, I understood how to manage this final section in spite of muscle fatigue."

Rocklands 2018 from 45degrees on Vimeo.

Almost perfect route setting in the female qualification and no false starts created a great first day in Buenos Aires. Surprisingly, favorite Laura Rogora who was #10 in Lead in the WCH in Innsbruck and who won the Boulder Youth WCH is out. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Vita Lukan from Slovenia was runner up behind Sandra Lettner from Austria.

Jan hojer has done the third ascent of Chris Sharma's Es Pontas on Mallorca from 2006. Chris did not grade it but after some years he said 9b was possible when this grade was put forward. Jernej Kruder did the first repeat and he calls it 9b. "The grade is symbolic!" Hojer took the bronze in the Combined WCH in Innsbruck last month. In 2016, he worked Es Pontas together with Jernej for a month. Hojer Insta: "Thanks @chris_sharma ! You sure know how I feel right now ! Thanks so much for putting up this route! Your vision is the only reason I got to experience all of this!"