In the very first Speed race, the favorite Sam Avezou made a big slip and finished second at around 8.23. Later Shuta Tanaka fell and Peter Ivanov also made a slip so Sam was the fastest "lucky looser". In the semi Sam once again faced Pan Yufei and beat him with some split seconds. Later Pan beat Filip Schenk in the small final. In the final, Sam had a clean race and made a personal best with 6.96 seconds against Keita Dohi 7.00. Complete results It should be noted that only Tomoa Narasaki and Mickel Mamew, among the non-Speed specialists, have had a faster time at 6.70 respectively 6.77.

Hannah Meul started first out, as she had the worst results in qualification, and set the standard by topping out with ease. She took two long rest further down but as she understood the route was way to easy she speed up, although chalked up before getting to another jug at the top. All the five remaining did probably know Hannah had topped but even so, nobody could beat her time. The last one out was the overall leader Laura Lammer who only needed to be fourth to win overall. Nevertheless, the young Austrian climbed faster than the rest taking almost no rest and fell on the second last hold. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Sandra Lettner 3 - 3 - 2 = 18 2. Vita Lukan 6 - 1 - 3 = 18 3. Laura Lammer 1 - 4 - 5 = 20 4. Hannah Meul 4 - 5 - 1 = 20 5. Elena Krasovskaia 2 - 6 - 4 = 48 6. Mao Nakamura 5 - 2 - 6 = 60 Complete results Interestingly, if Lammer had topped and finished #2 in Lead, she would have won (at 8 points), Meul would have been second (20), Vita Lukan third (24) and Lettner fourth (27).

Jakub Konecny, #6 in the WCH in Innsbruck, has done two 9a's in Misja Pec; Sanjski par extension and Martin Krpan. The 19 yer old Czech did his first 9a this summer and now he has done seven. "Both routes felt like it’s pretty much my style. So maybe the real projects are still waiting.. I hope. Since I started to think about the training differently this year, a lot changed and I feel much more comfortably. Simply I changed the attitude to training, definitely train harder, on hundred percent, but also with the time to relax. Every time to focus, focus only on this thing:) I went to the WCH in Innsbruck without any expectations. It was one of the lasts comps this season and my goal was only to be satisfied with my climbing and to enjoy the atmosphere. I competed only in Lead and definitely I couldn’t wish any better result. Also continuing in the rounds alongside with Adam was super cool."

The clock did not work during the first race during the Speed final and it took over 20 min until they re-run the first race. Then everything went smooth until the final race when favorite, Elena Krasovskaia, slipped and Laura Lammer won. Third was Sandra Lettner followed by Hannah Meul, Mao Nakamura and Vita Lukan. In the qualification, Lammer was #6 but as she won and defends her results from the qualification in Lead and Boulder, she has good chances for a medal actually. Favorite for the gold is Sara Lettner, also from Austria, who was rather superior in the qually.

It did get exciting in the end as only one attempt separated the three who topped all four boulders. Vita Lukan needed 12 attempts, Mau Nakamura 13 and Sandra Lettner 14. On the other hand, this also means that the boulders were a bit to easy. Complete results Laura Lammer, #6 in the qually, leads but if the Lead results remain from the first round, she will be third after Sandra Lettner and Vita Lukan.