Margo Hayes who last year did two of the most famous 9a+', La Rambla and Biographie, has done two 8c's in Oliana, Fish Eye and Mind Control*. (c) Jan Novak In 2016, she won the Youth World Championship in both Lead and Bouldering and now her goal is Tokyo 2020. In the Combined World Championship in Innsbruck, the american was #11. * It was originally 8c+ and as such is became the most repeated in the world. Later 8c was suggested and now it seems almost everyone agrees with this and in fact also 8b+ has been suggested for the mega 3-star line.

Michał Jaworski has done his first 9a, Sprawa Honoru in Dolina Kluczwody which is a link up of three 8b (+)'s. "I started working on this project four months ago. I am really glad that I finished this project, and feeling motivated to work harder and harder. Now I am going to try Spanish limestone and sun in Cuenca during my climbing vacations."

Updated results The finals start 12.30 Euro Time.

Adam Ondra is on a roadtrip in Balcan and in Mavrovo he first he put up Macedonian Trip 9a. "Project bolted by Klemen Becan in 2014. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. 3 goes." Then he made the FA of Czech Trip 9a+. "Harder and longer exit of Macedonian trip. Bolted with headlamp on day 1, cleaned on day 2, rested on day 3, sent on day 4. (c) Bernardo Gimenez

Stefan Scarperi, #3 in the Euro Bouldering Championship in 2015, has done Back Road 9a in Rovereto after three days of projecting. In the Combined ranking game, the Italian is #11. (c) Fabio Fin "Next week I will go to Frankenjura for two weeks. The main goal is to climb Action Directe and other cool stuff, then bouldering in Ticino.

Janja Garnbret started last out and looked to have everything in control three moves from the top when she slipped and it was obvious that the hold was wet, as the exact same thing had just happened for Jain Kim. As the rain seemed to just get stronger they decided to cancel both the finals. This means that the final results was based on the semifinal. As both Janja and Jain topped both qually routes and had the same scoring in the semi, we got two winners among the female. This also means that Janja Garnbret secured her overall title 2018. 1. Janja Garnbret/Jain Kim - Romain Desgranges 2. Jakob Schubert 3. Jessica Pilz - Hyunbin Min 4. Akiyo Noguchi - Hidemassa Nishida 5. Katharina Posch - Stefano Ghisolfi Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke Among the male, Romain Desgranges got his first victory in 2018 and Jakob Schubert secured the overall title without having to climb the final. Overall, Japan got sex male and female in the Top-15 although some of the top male did not participate.

From the Start List for the coming weekend's Lead World Cup in Wujiang, we can see that Stefano Ghisolfi will try out Speed but in general, the interest for Speed is not so big for the Lead specialists. Further more many of the top ranked Japanese will not participate and instead there are some new names out of the 15 that will participate. In general, eight of the Top-21 male ranked are missing and that goes also for the following weekend in Xiamen. Live-streaming of the semi, 13.00 - 15.30 on Sunday followed with the finals at 18.30. If Jessica Pilz wins the last two events, Janja Garnbret secures the victory overall by being runner up in one event and #3 in the other. If Jakob Schubert wins in Wujiang, he secures the overall title even if Stefano Ghisolfi is #2 in Wujiang and wins in Xiamen.

Julija Kruder did follow her brother Jernej to Mallorca to try out DWS for the frist time. No fear - she started by doing a 7c onsight and then it just took her eight tries to do Chris Sharma's Weatherman 8a+ including some falls from 12 meters. This might be the hardest female DWS ever? "I was extremely surprised, because she didn't feel any fear." Jernej, who also put up two 8b+' says that there is a video coming up.