A climbing life from H2M images on Vimeo.

Cathy Wagner, famous for having done 705 routes 8a and harder since 1994, has done Octographe 8b in Russan. Only during the last 12 months, the 53 year old has done 63 routes 8a and harder and she would have been #2 in the Age and Gender bonus ranking, it she would have participated. "A terrific climbing day! Sending a perfect route - very steep on (still) super dry tufas with a demanding final section. I think it's better when you're both tall and good at 'knee-baring'! Many thanks for cheering me on and congratulating me, that was really kind of you! Needed 3 days."

Christof Rauch, who the last year has done 150 boulders 8A and harder, has done his eight 8C, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico. (c) David Pilaj "Finally! Should have done it on the last day of my New Years trip but messed it up 6 times at the mantle. Tried it 2 times a few years back but couldn’t do this nasty mantle. This year it felt much better and I managed to send it on my 5 sessions of the year. Such an iconic line established by the master Dave Graham! More than happy to put it down!" Interesting is that Christof works full time as an engine-building technician and electrician in a waterplant. Chatting on Facebook with him 23.12 asking for pictures and comments he said he had to go to sleep as he had to wake up 05.45. Here are some comments we have gotten earlier. - I would say that my secret is my nearly endless motivation and that I'm not afraid about driving far for some new boulders. ;-) After my work I go climbing outside or train in a little gym once or twice a week. Almost every weekend I go climbing outdoors.

Daniel Woods is the new 8a ranking game leader after he did Sleepwalker 8C+ and Squoze 8C on the same day, which has never been done before. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith "Day started out with sending Sleepwalker on my first go after I was warmed up. I didn't take too much energy from this, so decided to try and polish off Squoze as well. I had tried it during my previous trip a couple weeks ago and was close to doing it. Fueled with psyche and adrenaline, I was able to send. This definitely was my best day of bouldering. Not often do you get the chance to send 15 and 16 in the same day. So how can you be in this record shape? I feel good right now. No say... just feel motivated haha. Climbing on a bunch of hard boulders for a while will get ya strong. What about a comeback in Comps? Well comps these days look like a completely diff sport to actual climbing. Seems you have to be a good coordinated climber rather than just have raw strength. I enjoy watching the comps and have a lot of respect for the athletes that do them, but it is something that I haven't gotten into yet. You have to dedicate a lot of gym time as well to have a chance since there are so many talented comp climbers and I would rather spend more days on the rocks than gym. What is your spring plans? Currently I am working to link a three moves 8A+ Sit Sleepwalker. The Sit is logical and completes the whole block and this was Nalle's (Hukkatiaval) original vision. It definitively levels it up. I respect Jimmy's and Nalle's outlook on climbing. They are searching for art pieces. I leave for Spain Feb 3, stoked on First Round and then go from there. In March I will be in Swiss then April to Finland for Burden of Dreams.

Vadim Timonov, who one year ago had a bad snow board accident which made him stop climbing for some months, has been in Albarracin and in just a week he did 17 boulders 8A to 8B+. On the picture, by Irinia Kuzmekova, La Teoria del Todo 8B+, which he did in just a 90 min session. "It was a great trip! good weather for bouldering, good condition. Sometimes I wanted to climb something harder, but there are no difficult routes. I'm glad to climb a lot of boulders - a great start to the season. Now it is the time to prepare for the competition! In a couple of weeks I'm flying to Japan and I plan to do all but the one in USA! Next plans on the rocks - the Burden of Dreams in April." (By coincidence, yesterday Daniel Woods said to 8a that he also plans going to Finland to try Hukkataival's 9A in April.? In 2017, Vadim's worst result in the WC was #20. Last year he was #25 in the WCH in Innsbruck, just three months training after his accident that left him with two plates in his shoulder. Interesting is also that Vadim has no sponsor and is actually buying his La Sportiva Solution and Scarpa VSR, as can be seen on the pic.

Irina Kuzmenko has signed up with four 8A boulders including two the last week in Albarracin, El Astronave and Iker. The picture by Juliet Leonova is from Magic Woods where she did two 8A's last year. "I’m originally from Siberia. Climbing since 2008. Till 2014 was competing just in lead, then tried once a bouldering outside and fell in love. So since this time I compete at world cups in bouldering, but more motivated to climb outside For the future: I really would like to crush all limits and make my grade of climbing higher with every rock trip! In close future would like to done with 8B boulder, make it good on Nationals and feel free to climb around the world, explore new climbing areas!"

Ethan Pringle, who has been one of leading climbers since he did Biography 9a+ in 2007, has done Kintsugi in Red Rocks on his fourth session, suggesting 8B+ as his personal grade. Based on his Insta story we asked if he could elaborate further in regards grading and what he likes the 8a - Time Comparison Grading theory, for which he agrees. "I think the amount of time it takes you to do something is pretty directly related to how hard it is, yep!" (c) Alex Arestei -Grades are a primarily a measuring stick for people's egos. Which is totally fine! There's nothing wrong with having an ego. We all have one. I think it's better to acknowledge that, than pretend it's not a thing. -Secondly, grades are a way to say: this is how hard this climb was for me, relative to climbs I've done in the past. Everyone can use them to help measure progress, and set goals, but pros can use them to communicate to fans of the sport, how hard they think a certain accomplishment was for them (rather than give people the move-by-move breakdown, or the whole story of their experience on a climb). Of course we humans like quantifying and ranking ourselves, each other, and our accomplishments, with numbers. But a number can't even come close to quantifying the very subjective experience on, and difficulty of, a rock climb. So, people shouldn't get too hung up on grades, because they are a shoddy, and vastly incomplete representation, at best. Even though I think grades are kinda dumb, I will attempt to comment on the grade of Kintsugi anyway. Because I too have an ego!!! I didn't really try the Nalle/Keenan beta, but it seems every bit as V15 as I can imagine. Nalle and Keenan know what V15 feels like, and I believe the boulder is that hard with the beta they used. But with the beta I used (the Nils ninja-toe catch), If I were to take just the crux, and lower it by eight feet, so would be right off the ground, I think the physical difficulty would be around V13. The fact that your ass is about 15 feet off he ground when you do the crux though, adds a huge physiological element that definitely raises the difficulty of the boulder. So, with the added element of the height, and the much easier intro moves, I think for me, the overall difficulty was in the 14 range. Even though I used easier beta, it's still one of the hardest climbs I've ever done. And definitely one of the best!!!