The last boulder had a jamming section that none of the first five finalist could do what so ever. Adam Ondra, starting last as he won the semifinal, had to do the jam and get a zone to secure the win. He squeezes in his left hand and it get stuck so well so he drops the right hand and waves to the crowd celebrating him. One more jam and he continues with ease and create the perfect ending as well as start of the Boulder World Cup. The coming week, the Japanese and the rest of the gang will have to do some old school jamming training. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Adam Ondra 44 (4T4z) 2. Tomoa Narasaki 33 3. Rei Sugimoto 23 4. Kokoro Fujii 13 (3,5 attempts) 5. Jongwon Chon 13 (3,8) 6. Tomoaki Takata 11 Complete results

Pietro Bassotto reports on Insta that he has done Extrema Cura in Gravere as his first 8c. Kind of impressive being 55 years old, video. Pietro started to climb more than 30 years ago and in 1989 he was #13 in a Speed World Cup. In 2010, being 47 years old, he did his first 8b+. In the last six months he has done four 8A's and two 8A+'. Lately, he has also done his first 8a onsight. When it comes to comps, nowadays he prefers boulders and last year he won la Tout À Blocs Tab among the veterans. "The reasons for my improvement are basically three: 1. I climb more in comparison to when had small children. 2. I am always very motivated. I am lucky to have a son "Davide" who climbs on 8c+/9a and 8B/+. He pushes me, especially when we train and climb together. 3. I only train the maximum strength to have the stimulus always high. I do pull-ups, I train on the wall of my house and I do Boulder outdoors.

Sean Bailey reports on Insta that he has done Coup De Grâce 9a. "All time dream line." (c) Keenan Takahashi In Meiringen, Sean was #59 and the next weekend he is competing in Speed and Boulder in Moscow.

Lucifer (5.14c/8c+) - Red River Gorge, KY from PhysiVāntage on Vimeo.

Leon Fraunholz and Giani Clement have both done their first 8C, The story of 2 worlds Cresciao. (c)Felix Hoffman and (c) Hannes Kutza Leon: "Last year I have finished school and since then I am travelling around with my van. In case of that time is not a limited factor while projecting, thats the main reason why I took the decision to try something harder. Since I stopped competing I put my focus on rockclimbing. From that point on I am trying to climb outdoors as much as possible. Giani and I tried Story very often together so it was extra special that we have sent it in the same session, congrats again Giani!" Giani: "I tried the Dagger jan/Feb 2018 and scored after 10 sessions on it at the end of February 2018. In December 2019 I ventured to the sitstart. It took me 12 sessions to link the start moves into the dagger and in total about 35 sessions within 4 months to complete it. I tried the Boulder especially with my friend Martin Keller. Together we worked out the Boulder and motivated each other."